FICM or Injector Issues? P0611 and circuit low codes

[JCark]

I was driving the other day and my check engine light came on. I read the codes with a scanner from advance auto parts and it gave me a p0264 code. I cleaerd the code and added some power service to clean the injectors. (this crappy scanner does not show the p0611 code for some reason)

My truck starts fine, it runs great, no power loss, no smoke...

So yesterday I bought a special bluetooth code reader/performance monitor. I read the codes and it was showing a p0611 and the circuit low codes in yellow but the CEL was not on.

Well last night got pretty cold and I decided to check the voltage of my batteries. Now these are diehard platinum 930 CCA batteries that are less than a year old. I was only getting 11.1 Volts at both of them.

I started my truck (in the cold) and it ran rough for a few seconds and then ran fine. I drove it for a while after it warmed up and the CEL came on again.

This time it showed the injector circuit low code in red for all 8 injectors plus the p0611 code in grey.


While the truck is running I get 13.5 or so volts. The truck runs great, like it did when I bought it. It does not skip, or blow any smoke at all. It started rough for a few seconds but isnt that normal for being 20 degrees?

My question is, could this be a battery issue even though voltage is only low when the truck is off or is this definitely the FICM? Also, could I have bad injectors even though the truck runs great? I appriciate your help!

[dannyboy950]

Your batteries are bad and need to be disconnected from each other and load tested you will find one or more dead cells. Recomended to change both if even 1 is showing bad.

While running you are showing 13v cause you are reading alt. output not battery state of charge. When first starting your alt doesn't even put out and your cranking and running the glowplugs strictly on the batteries. The main reason 6.0 batteries only last a few years. Keep in mind that during cranking your drawing the batts down to 10v or less
this puts a strain on the ficm and will cause them to go out. PO611 is commonly called the ficm killer code so you may need to test ficm and have it repaired.

Continual low voltage can also take out injectors.

[JCark]

Thanks for the help Dannyboy. l'm going to pull the batteries right now and load test them. I hope I didn't cause permanent damage to the FICM... I should be able to get the bad batteries replaced since they are still under warranty.

[JCark]

Originally Posted by dannyboy950

Your batteries are bad and need to be disconnected from each other and load tested you will find one or more dead cells. Recomended to change both if even 1 is showing bad.

While running you are showing 13v cause you are reading alt. output not battery state of charge. When first starting your alt doesn't even put out and your cranking and running the glowplugs strictly on the batteries. The main reason 6.0 batteries only last a few years. Keep in mind that during cranking your drawing the batts down to 10v or less
this puts a strain on the ficm and will cause them to go out. PO611 is commonly called the ficm killer code so you may need to test ficm and have it repaired.

Continual low voltage can also take out injectors.

Well, I had my batteries tested and the both passed with flying colors... Both of them were putting out about 1300 CCA. I had sears and advance auto test them. Should I still replace them?

[jmisbpd]

I had a similar problem man, but the batt light on the dash came on intermittently, tested the batts with the motor running had 13.7 at the batts and the alternator +- a few, and now, I'm replacing a FICM, alternator and batteries... play it safe bro

[jmisbpd]

And I should mention that I was having tough starts, chugging at cold startup and eventually poor performance at +2000RPM and also blowing smoke

[JCark]

Originally Posted by jmisbpd

I had a similar problem man, but the batt light on the dash came on intermittently, tested the batts with the motor running had 13.7 at the batts and the alternator +- a few, and now, I'm replacing a FICM, alternator and batteries... play it safe bro

Wow, Well I had a bad alternator but it has since been replaced along with my batteries. My new alternator seems to be working fine. I have been closely monitoring the voltage output while driving and I haven't seen it drop. I think I'm just going to replace the batteries anyway once my FICM comes back from repair to play it it safe. I just want to make sure this is a FICM Issue.

[southend]

Originally Posted by JCark

Well, I had my batteries tested and the both passed with flying colors... Both of them were putting out about 1300 CCA. I had sears and advance auto test them. Should I still replace them?

I would say if your batteries are 930 cca, and they are load testing at 1300cca, then something is not right. I don't recall a battery for our trucks much more than 1000cca, and they would probably not test at that rating, but below it with a load.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.

[10secondC]

they probably tested them hooked up to the truck instead of pulling the cables off.

[JCark]

Originally Posted by 10secondC

they probably tested them hooked up to the truck instead of pulling the cables off.

G65 DieHard platinum batteries are rated at 930 CCA @ 32 degress. They were both load tested separately outside of the truck at two different places. 1300 cranking amps at 72 degrees is a common rating for these batteries.