This afternoon, my truck was parked in a field for three hours after being driven earlier for about an hour and a half. When I went to go start the truck after sitting it cranked an unusually long time before finally sputtering to a start. Once it started it had a cloud of smoke and then idled and drove home fine. Just wondering what could have caused this? It was cold and windy all day. If I were to guess by symptoms, I'd say something glow plug related but I'm not sure.
I programmed my ScanGuage to read the ICP and IPR readings today. Unfortunatly, the truck was already warmed up. When I started it cold this morning (ambient temp about 25*F), it started quickly but had terrible clatter and smoke until it warmed up. It hasn't clattered like that on a cold start since I started using Rotella T6 oil and Rev X. The next cold start, I will watch my parameters closer when I crank the engine. FICM volts have never fell below 47.5v when driving.
Just went out and started my truck after it sat all night. It popped off right away. It idled with notable "stiction clatter" for a couple minutes and a slight haze of smoke. The FICM volts didn't seem to drop below 46v. No DTC's by the way.
46 volts is still a bit on the low side ? What is the battery voltage running at, does that ficm voltage come up after the alt comes on a couple minutes later?
I know with my truck it's 47.5 at lowest but for maybe a second at most usually 48-48.5
Set up parameters on scangauge for IPR/ICP FICM main/logic watch all when you start.
I've only seen 46 volts during KOEO. I will watch the next time I give her a crank. I wish I would have had the ScanGuage set up right when it happend the first time. I read somewhere that you can get a FICM power supply half from International for like $150.00. Is that true? Then would I just have to swap the power supply, and not have to do any reflashing? Does anyone know the part # for that?
While cranking my truck this a.m., I saw FICM voltage drop to 45 volts. It started quickly but ran rough again like it has been on the cold starts. After it starts, voltage averages 48 volts and doesn't fall past 47.5.
Yea 45v is low, it's a matter of time before it fails on you.
Next question: what is the battery voltage when cranking and after it starts. If your down in the 10v range it may be part of the problem.
Moniter ficm voltage and trucks voltage.
If your battereies are hangin on replace them with quality batteries.
There is no need for reflashing the ficm, they are plug and play. There are different flashes for them as well as performance flashes that are available.
I see 47v once in a while for a second otherwise it's a solid 48-48.5
I haven't checked battery voltage during cranking or running. Both batteries were replaced less than two months ago so I'm doubting they're bad but I will check them out. Suprisingly, I think the batteries I replaced were originals (truck build date 4/2003), so they may have been stressing the FICM. Even if I don't always see FICM volts drop below 47 when cranking, the FICM is still most likely the problem right? It smokes more on start up now with more noteable stiction. ICP and IPR readings look good.
Your voltages are good.. As long as it does not drop below 45 volts you are good. I have a new ficm and it will drop to 46.5 for a split split second then stay at 47-47.5volts
Well, I've been watching everything for a few days now. My truck has been starting pretty well now everytime. Still some noteable stiction in the mornings with some smoke, but this week has been the coldest in the mornings weve seen this season for our area. I'm not sure if maybe I had some bad fuel or it began to gel up when I had the extended crank or what. May get some more Rev-X for my next oil change as well.
Well my FICM volts havent fell below 45 volts, ICP and IPR readings have been good, batteries are new, I run Rotella T6 with Motorcraft oil and fuel filters, there are no DTC's...Everything points to what a smooth running truck should be. It was just a couple times my truck actted up. I hope its not a bad harness or something. If a glow plug were bad, I would suspect a more consistant problem and a DTC.
Glow plugs do not always throw a cel.... Trust me, i just change all eight of mine out and 3 plugs were bad and did not throw a code.. Your readings otherwise look good
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