Yet another cold running issue!

[tcorns]

I have spent many hours looking over the various topics posted concerning my 7.3 and learned alot! Now i have a 6.0 that needs some help and i am coming upto my witts end with it...

The truck is an 05 lariet with a stock 6.0 and an auto.

bought a month ago and had no problems! First cold night and it was slow to start and ran like crap until warmed up completely. I changed the oil to T-6 and the oil filter to a Ford filter. I had several days of no change. I drained off a bit of oil and added some of the hot shot secret (because it was carried local to me) and gave it a go. The truck turns over very easy, fires without issue and will sit and idle with no complaints. other then a few seconds of rough running until the oil warms a bit. with it cold and starting to move, it sounds as though i have a dead cylander and has some noticible shake to it. I also see a fair bit of white smoke until warm then none. The truck has no issue once warm and will restart easy.

I am using AE for testing. The FICM shows 47.5 to 48.5 volts throughout starting and running. although the dealer did tell me that they changed the batteries because one went bad. there are no leaks and it does not appear to be losing coolant. I ran the power balance test with no drop off noted in any cyl at both start and idle. It did run rough off idle but i could not see the change during the power balance test. I shut the injectors down one at a time and had no noticible change between any of them. I am getting a #6 glow plug DTC and no other powertrain codes. Also plugging the truck in does not seem to help at all.

I have almost 750 miles on the oil and over 500 on the additive. I have filled up at 2 different places (both of which i used for my 7.3) and use diesel kleen regularly. I will be changing the fuel filters on friday with any luck. I am pretty competant as a mechanic and will do most of my oe\wn testing and repairs whenever possible. I am leaning toward stiction but i am not sure how to narrow it down any one cylander. I have done some research on the FICM and there is a possibility that some of the connections have gone bad. Out side of those items I am not and I am hoping that i made a good choice when i got rid of my 7.3.

thanks for the help guys

Trev

[mhatlen]

It does sound like stiction, have read many posts where hot shot did nothing for it but after pouring in RevX seems lots of trucks like it.
May want to give it a try, contribution test should help you narrow down lazy injectors.

[southend]

Load test your batteries, perform ficm check procedure. Sound like ficm, logic board.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.

[tcorns]

Batteries are good and are brand new. And the ficm has been tested with 47.5 to 48.5 volts at start and running position. My initial idea was to use the rev x but my local tsc carries the hot shot and it was something that international asked for. I will look into the rev x after I log a few more miles on this oil change. Is there a way to confirm stiction and tell which injector is doing it? Any idea on what damage I may be doing by running it before it warms up completely?

Trev

[tcorns]

Talked to the folks at ficmrepair and on his advise fixed the glow plug first. No troubleshooting first just replaced the 6 glow plug and tried it out. That seemed to make a decent change in the idle and initial running until up to operating temp. I am leaning toward a stiction issue now and hope that I can get through to spring before I have to change out some of the injectors.

Trev

[Tuscany]

Try Archoil 9100 instead of HSS or Rev X. It is the same thing as Rev X and half the cost. Also note that if the stiction is bad enough that no matter how many doses of Archoil or Rev X you use it will ALWAYS come back. The ONLY way to get rid of stiction completely is to get new injectors and run a full synthetic oil from the get go in them.

[tcorns]

Thanks for the advice. It really was not that cold yesterday so I am hoping that with the temp drop today I can get a good comparison to what it was like. I will more then likely change the injector/injectors in the spring when I have the extra cash and time to do it. Is there anyway to determine which injectors are sticking or should I just plan on doing all of them?

Trev