Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Central Valley, Sierra Mountains, California
Thanked 137 Times in 126 Posts
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 295 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
If you know the service history on it from being new and it was good then heat is the next explanation, some of the wear is due to the design and the valves on a 6.0 are tiny in comparison to the 7.3 and long heavy hauls make lots of heat and can take it's toll on them. How do the intakes look, if they are in good condition then you may very well be right.
I was a machinest for 7 years and I mainly worked with the cylinder head work. Lubrication was the most common killer and usually the sludge would give away what condition the heads were before I even tore them down.
Extreme heat will tear up the valve stems and guides pretty quickly. I am assuming that the shop will magnaflux the heads and check for straightness. Myself it were my engine I would go through all the o-rings in the top end and replace them all, do the standpipes dummy plugs one peice stc oil cooler/ BP egr cooler ect to make sure you won't have to go back in again.
2006 F250 LARIAT CCSB 4X4
ARP Studs, O-Ringed Heads
X4 PHP 65 HP Custom Tow Tune
Atlas40 or Atlas80 Ficm Tune
CAT EC-1 Coolant, IPR Coolant filter
BPD Waterpump, BPD way of thinking
Fass-125 to a Adjustable Pressure Reg.
Turbo-back SS 4" pipe, Corsa Muffler -7" Tip
6.4 starter, DC Power 270 amp alt
Die Hard Platinum AGM all 2/0 Cables
Fabtech Radius Arms
7" lift w: Icon Progressive Coil Springs
2008 up Carli/Deaver rear springs
All riding on some Fatty-Daddy 38/15.50/18 Toyo's
Last edited by mhatlen; 10-24-2012 at 09:12 AM.