LONG cranks/ dies at idle after EGR delete. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:31 AM
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LONG cranks/ dies at idle after EGR delete.

Ok, truck has been sitting for 2 weeks. had the EGR tigv welded shut with a plate of Stainless steel on both ends. It wasn't ruptured, just doing it to prevent anything in the future. I did not do the oil cooler, as much as I know I probably should. Just cant afford it right now. Eventually I will do a coolant flush and a new oil cooler, for now, just fresh coolant.

So the first time I put everything back together and started it, I had a major oil leak and lost 3-4 qts. Truck actually died from lack of oil in the HPOP before I noticed the leak. Turbo drain tube wasn't in good.. tore it all back down, replaced it with the updated drain tube. Got everything back together, put another gallon of Rotella T-6 in (I changed the oil before ever starting it the first time). Now it takes VERY long cranks to get it to start, about 15-20 seconds of cranking sometimes, usually at least 10.

Also had a coolant leak at the donut gasket where the intake manifold meets the front cover, $75 for that stupid oversized O-ring.

It will idle for a short while, buck/surge and then die, like it has a loss of fuel or High pressure oil. It ran for a good 5 minutes on the first initial startup, even had it on high idle. Was able to rev it to about 2300 no problem. Now it idles for like 20 seconds and dies. Also have what LOOKS like some serious blowby coming out of my oil dipstick tube.. Checked for DTC's with my SCT, none found?

I have an Edge CS that I got used in hopes of monitoring her, but its VIN locked to a Chevy, Edge Customer service checked the Serial and said it is compatible with mine and should still work for gauges, but I cant get it to work, keeps saying it needs to write a new file to my truck and when I say OK, it reboots and repeats.

The engine (not injector/ficm) wiring harness is also chaffed pretty bad (will post a pic). Could this be my problem? Ford wants $500-750 for a new one and salvage yards don't have them.

Sorry for the long post, mine always are. Here is a video of the problem, maybe it will help.

Attached Thumbnails
LONG cranks/ dies at idle after EGR delete.-img_20121016_203334.jpg   LONG cranks/ dies at idle after EGR delete.-img_20121016_203339.jpg   LONG cranks/ dies at idle after EGR delete.-img_20121017_114517.jpg   LONG cranks/ dies at idle after EGR delete.-img_20121014_161436.jpg  

Last edited by Cedar Creek stroke; 10-17-2012 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:01 PM
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Got a friend at a local mechanic shop going to come over after work with his scanner. Any specific values I need ot be monitoring? I was thinking ICP pressure, IPR, and maybe FICM voltage, although the FICM was sent in to swamps about 2 years ago and modded to 58 volts, I doubt its that. Its a late 04 engine if that helps.

Could it be bad dummy plug O-rings, or the STC fitting (in an 04)? Or just a bad HPOP?

The reason I started doing all this in the first place was because it was missing at idle, hot or cold and missing from 45-60MPH in OD, hot or cold.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:46 PM
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Well, buddy came out with his scanner. The codes he pulled that I don't find normal are:
B1359 - Ignition run/accessory circuit failure
B1360 - Ignition switch circuit open
P0611 - Control module incorrectly configured (Status 60, no additional fault symptom available for this DTC)
C1284 - Oil Pressure Switch Failure
P0113 - IAT sensor circuit high input (this happened when we cranked it with the MAF sensor unplugged, then cleared it and it did not come back)

I returned the truck to factory tune with the SCT, nothing changed. Same problem.

Is my HPOP going bad? PCM bad? I am taking the Wire harness off tonight and going to attempt to fix it. I hope it didnt damage the PCM being bare on that spot.

I also tried it with the ICP sensor unplugged. Same scenario, 10-15 second crank, runs for a bit and slowly dies.

One thing of note, if i let it idle, I get about 25 seconds on engine on time. If I hold the RPMs to say 1500-2k I get about 4-6 seconds. It is like when I am cranking it, it is building up oil pressure real slow, and when it starts, it has a set amount of oil in the pump each time before it dies again. I am stumped... FICM voltage NEVER drops below 48 volts (I guess his scanner isn't able to read above 55v, I have the 58v FICM from SWAMPS) My batteries were a little weak in the video, from all the cranking I have been doing lately.

In the following video, the ICP actual doesn't seem to raise ANY until like 6+ seconds of cranking. And it rises SLOWLY. As soon as it gets close to 500psi she finally fires.

I don't think it makes a difference, but I DID put a very small screw in the factory fuel spring to increase pressure a tad, not as large as the ball bearing mod some guys where doing before the blue spring kit came out. And the threads don't interfere with the spring action.

Here is another video I took of some live PIDs I monitored while cranking that I thought might be of some help. Sorry for the sometimes shaky camera, using my cell phone lol. Also, turn down the volume, my digital volt readout was on, and made an obnoxious noise for the low battery alarm.


Last edited by Cedar Creek stroke; 10-18-2012 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:01 PM
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Did you check the wire on the IPR to be sure it is connected?
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:02 PM
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Yes sir I did. A few times lol. Just to make sure I am not going crazy..
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:58 PM
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So much for taking off the Engine loom.. Much like the rest of the 6.0, that thing is impossible to get all off. I am on my last nerve with this truck, and its dry umping that nerve..
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:06 PM
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Bump. Anyone? I am thinking I have a High pressure oil leak, and that is why its hazing out the dipstick tube, but I just don't know enough about these engines to be sure if that's the problem at all, or if it is, where to start.. Or is it electrical. Bad PCM? I don't understand why it takes 6-8 seconds of cranking to begin building ICP pressure.

Once it fires, it appears to hold ICP pretty stable, then it just slowly dies, and as soon as it does ICP starts falling quickly. Is that normal?
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:42 PM
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I just came back in from fixing the bad spots in the wiring harness. Still no dice. Same problem. I have searched and searched, cant find anyone on any forums that have had this issue. The hard start, with blowby in the dipstick, followed by it dying. And in order to start it back up, crank again for 15 seconds... Come monday, it will have been sitting in my yard for 3 weeks. it is keeping me from making any money, and I dont have any more money to spend on it... I am totally lost.
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:56 PM
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You have a MAJOR HPO leak or weak and failing HPOP. In your second video your getting 0 psi from the ICP and the IPR is pegged at 85% this is indicitive of a HPO leak in the system. Your truck doesn't have the STC fitting which is usually the suspect if your getting less than 100 psi of HPO pressure while cranking. I would suspect a weak and failing HPOP as well as replacing the standpipes and dummy plugs.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:04 PM
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Ouch. I will start with pulling the valve covers and checking the stand pipes and dummy plugs. I always thought those going out would cause hot start problems but not cold start. Are the valve cover gaskets re usable?

And is there any way to tell if the HPOP is gone by pulling it and looking at it? Ill the the IPR valve too.

Tuscany, thank you for the reply!
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