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Old 07-04-2012, 11:50 AM
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Parts List For Semi-Bullet Proofing Project

I need some help! A couple weeks ago I posted an issue with my 6.0 overheating while towing. I picked up a ScanGauge II over the weekend and was able to get some more accurate EOT and ECT readings. Yesterday while cruising at about 70 mph on the freeway the EOT was running about 208 while the ECT was around 191. It was in the high 90s outside, AC was going and there was nothing being towed/hauled. This leads me to think I have a restricted Oil and/or EGR cooler? I think we have decided to tear into the engine and start a semi-bulletproofing project but I need help determining what parts to replace and what is needed to do the job CORRECTLY. I have about a dozen pages bookmarked with part lists and they all seem to be different. The build date on my truck is February, 2003 and it has 175,000 miles. I already have a coolant filter installed and have had it for about a year.

Would this be a good time tackle a head gasket/stud job?
Should I also replace the EGR valve at the same time?
What other gaskets/seals should be replaced at this time?
Replace T-Stat?
Replace Water Pump?

Here is the partial parts list I have compiled so far, any suggestions/additions would be appreciated!

New EGR COOLER from Bullet Proof Diesel
New Oil Cooler: 3C3Z-6A642-CA
Intake Gasket Kit: 3C3Z-9433-AA
Turbo Reconditioning Kit: 4C4Z-9V424-AA (depending on what it looks like)
New Turbo oil supply line and turbo oil drain line - I've seen that these were different on the 03's. Is there any way to tell what I have or if it needs to be replaced?
Degas Bottle Cap: RS-527
HFCM Drain Plug: 6E7Z-9C082-A
Fuel Filter Kit: FD-4616
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Old 07-04-2012, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
I need some help! A couple weeks ago I posted an issue with my 6.0 overheating while towing. I picked up a ScanGauge II over the weekend and was able to get some more accurate EOT and ECT readings. Yesterday while cruising at about 70 mph on the freeway the EOT was running about 208 while the ECT was around 191. It was in the high 90s outside, AC was going and there was nothing being towed/hauled. This leads me to think I have a restricted Oil and/or EGR cooler? I think we have decided to tear into the engine and start a semi-bulletproofing project but I need help determining what parts to replace and what is needed to do the job CORRECTLY. I have about a dozen pages bookmarked with part lists and they all seem to be different. The build date on my truck is February, 2003 and it has 175,000 miles. I already have a coolant filter installed and have had it for about a year.
Check the "sticky" on the subject:
Oil cooler and EGR cooler service PDF files and notes
The turbo oil supply line could potentially be different.
Check the connection at the oil cooler cover. If you see what appears to be a large nut on the oil supply line, you would have to purchase the whole oil cooler cover for a newer truck to be able to change over to the newest style turbo oil supply line (the oil cooler covers were only changed once, so any other year will work if you choose to go the route of replacing the cover).
This info is also in that "sticky"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
Would this be a good time tackle a head gasket/stud job?
If you need to, yes. If you don't, no.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
Should I also replace the EGR valve at the same time?
If you need to, yes. If you don't, no.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
What other gaskets/seals should be replaced at this time?
Replace T-Stat?
Replace Water Pump?
Gaskets and seals are covered in the "sticky" linked above.

Thermostat change is a good idea..and you should be performing a full cooling system flush PREVIOUS to undertaking the oil cooler/EGR cooler replacement. I recommend taking that opportunity to change over to a CAT EC-1 rated coolant.

Waterpump? Only if your having problems with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
Here is the partial parts list I have compiled so far, any suggestions/additions would be appreciated!

New EGR COOLER from Bullet Proof Diesel
New Oil Cooler: 3C3Z-6A642-CA
Intake Gasket Kit: 3C3Z-9433-AA
Turbo Reconditioning Kit: 4C4Z-9V424-AA (depending on what it looks like)
New Turbo oil supply line and turbo oil drain line - I've seen that these were different on the 03's. Is there any way to tell what I have or if it needs to be replaced?
Degas Bottle Cap: RS-527
HFCM Drain Plug: 6E7Z-9C082-A
Fuel Filter Kit: FD-4616
The drain line should be replaced. It is fairly inexpensive and the older style was not mandrel bent so it lost some of its inner circumference which slows the oil flow. You will be able to tell if it has been replaced previously by a visual inspection of the bends.
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
Check the "sticky" on the subject:
Oil cooler and EGR cooler service PDF files and notes
The turbo oil supply line could potentially be different.
Check the connection at the oil cooler cover. If you see what appears to be a large nut on the oil supply line, you would have to purchase the whole oil cooler cover for a newer truck to be able to change over to the newest style turbo oil supply line (the oil cooler covers were only changed once, so any other year will work if you choose to go the route of replacing the cover).
This info is also in that "sticky"
Thank you for the reply! I found your documents prior to posting and they were very helpful. I have a few more questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
If you need to, yes. If you don't, no.
How can I tell if I need a new EGR valve? I haven't installed once since I've owned it. I tried to remove it once to inspect it but was unable to get it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
If you need to, yes. If you don't, no.
No coolant loss so I'm guessing we can just do the Oil and EGR Coolers for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
Thermostat change is a good idea..and you should be performing a full cooling system flush PREVIOUS to undertaking the oil cooler/EGR cooler replacement. I recommend taking that opportunity to change over to a CAT EC-1 rated coolant.
Do I need to do a coolant flush if I did one about a year ago and already have a coolant filter in place? If I'm removing the two culprits that usually are clogged would there be any other areas that the "goo" could be lingering? What coolants do you recommend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
The drain line should be replaced. It is fairly inexpensive and the older style was not mandrel bent so it lost some of its inner circumference which slows the oil flow. You will be able to tell if it has been replaced previously by a visual inspection of the bends.
Below is the line I have so it's the older style cooler? It looks like it's in good condition so what are the benefits/advantages to buying a new line and a complete cooler housing? Do you know the part number for the new cover and would I just need to buy the cover and the cooler or is there a whole set available?

Parts List For Semi-Bullet Proofing Project-2012-07-04_16-25-06_22.jpg

Thanks for your help!
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
How can I tell if I need a new EGR valve? I haven't installed once since I've owned it. I tried to remove it once to inspect it but was unable to get it out.
If you aren't getting codes, it is probably OK.
Here is a trick for popping that valve out of there.
Remove the two small bolts holding in place. Firmly grasp the EGR valve and twist it so that the tabs are accessible. Use a good length of tie wire (2-3 feet long) and feed one end of the tie-wire through one hole in a tab and the other end oif the tie-wire through the other hole. Twist the tie-wire ends upon themselves, forming a loop above the valve. Using a rake or shovel or broom, insert the handle through the loop and use the alternator for leverage. It will pop right out of the intake.
CLICK HERE for directions on how to clean it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
Do I need to do a coolant flush if I did one about a year ago and already have a coolant filter in place? If I'm removing the two culprits that usually are clogged would there be any other areas that the "goo" could be lingering? What coolants do you recommend?
If you are running the Ford Gold coolant, absolutely. Especially if you have not been maintaining that coolant by checking the nitrite level every 15,000 miles and flushing the cooling system every 45,000 miles.

I have attached the FORD TSB for Diesel Coolant Maintenance that you should read. It details how you are supposed to maintain it, which not many do.

Your oil cooler has become plugged by the junk that forms due to neglect of the Ford Gold Coolant. Coolant filters will help, but it will not cure the problem.
Flush it out of your engine and be rid of that beast.
I went to the local International Truck dealership and bought the coolant they use (Fleetrite ELC). NAPA also sells a Zerex ELC that meets the CAT EC-1 designation. Make sure the coolant you use meets that designation, and not all of the ELC's out there do. (ELC=Extended Life Coolant)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddie_37 View Post
Below is the line I have so it's the older style cooler? It looks like it's in good condition so what are the benefits/advantages to buying a new line and a complete cooler housing? Do you know the part number for the new cover and would I just need to buy the cover and the cooler or is there a whole set available?
Yes, you have the oldest style line, and to be able to change the oil supply line would require a new oil cooler cover.

The issue with the "old" lines is that a slight restriction can form in the interior of the flexible stainless steel portion. I believe that the replacement covers are a little on the pricey side, but am not completely sure about that.
Give Tousley Ford a call and ask them for pricing.
They used to sell the oil cooler and the oil cooler cover together as a "kit" but I believe that kit has been discontinued.
The oil supply and drain lines would be separate purchases as well. These two lines will run you about 100 bucks.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 09-8-5 diesel coolant maintenance.pdf (112.1 KB, 358 views)

Last edited by NYC F-350; 07-04-2012 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
If you are running the Ford Gold coolant, absolutely. Especially if you have not been maintaining that coolant by checking the nitrite level every 15,000 miles and flushing the cooling system every 45,000 miles.

I have attached the FORD TSB for Diesel Coolant Maintenance that you should read. It details how you are supposed to maintain it, which not many do.

Your oil cooler has become plugged by the junk that forms due to neglect of the Ford Gold Coolant. Coolant filters will help, but it will not cure the problem.
Flush it out of your engine and be rid of that beast.
I went to the local International Truck dealership and bought the coolant they use (Fleetrite ELC). NAPA also sells a Zerex ELC that meets the CAT EC-1 designation. Make sure the coolant you use meets that designation, and not all of the ELC's out there do. (ELC=Extended Life Coolant)
One more question on the coolant flush. My thoughts were to drain the coolant, flush the system with distilled water a few times and leave the distilled water in the system. Then do the Oil and EGR Cooler replacement, then flush the system again and finally refill it with coolant. I hate to fill it with good coolant just to open everything up. Would this work okay?
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:04 AM
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Don't leave straight distilled water in the cooling system any longer than you need to.
Rust scale can begin to form rather quickly and that would defeat the purpose of flushing the cooling system in the first place.
I would use the VC-9 cleaner at a minimum to clear any rust scale that is in your cooling system now.
Did you get the PM I sent you?
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