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idles fine but absolutly gutless, no codes
So new problem:
Quick history. had problem with squealing noise and no turbo spool up ( another post ) but truck ran fine just sluggish. figured it out. replaced the turbo as is was rusted, pitted and such. found out y pipe was coming loose from exhaust manifold. Put the truck back together and went for a test drive. She starts fine and seems to run smooth but when i step into it no turbo, no power, hangs up on the gears. put foot to the floor and it takes forever to get over 3000 rpms and when it does it starts to flutter. So I come home think about it and disconnect the batteries. maybe it needs a reset or something. take it for a test drive again and things start out good. I have good power ( not quite what it used to be but ok ) turbo is working, I think I have this beat. 5 min down the road back to no power, no turbo, no smooth gear changing, and no codes
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You might want to look at your FICM.
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ficm wouldn't cause it hot. do you have an 03 by chance? if yes then did you perform a turbo relearn after replacement. and if your truck looses power, if you shut it down and restart it will the power come back?
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early 04 with an 03 engine. How do you do a turbo relearn. it does seem to run better for a short time after shutting off.
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I have an '03 that I recently removed the turbo to clean it up and reinstalled. It seemed to spool up really fast when I first got the truck done, and now about 1500 miles later, it seems to spool up slower again. Not as bad as before I cleaned it, but it just seems like it's not how it should be. I didn't know that there was a relearn procedure for the turbo. How is it performed?
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yours should be ok. As I understand from the great guys on this forum you shouldn't need the relearn as your solenoid is still the same. I need the relearn as I replaced my turbo with a reman from BD diesel ( they machine out some of the problem areas). The cleaning only lasts so long and the antiseize doesn't really work. hi temp antiseize is only good to 900 degrees and the exhaust temps hit 1200. Just burns it off. After taking mine apart I would say the cleaning would last different lengths for different guys depending on how bad your turbo is. Mine was full of rust and pitting. I couldn't get back to the original finish that would repel carbon and rust better. rusty surface will always re-rust much faster than the first time. I replaced mine as I figured I would be taking it back apart again within a fairly short amount of time. Not worth it if I am going to have to buy a new one anyways.
as far as the relearn I got this from another post on this site: KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure 1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature. (The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature) 2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module) 3. Turn on the headlights 4. Disconnect both batteries 5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this). 6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes 7. Turn off the headlights. 8. Re-connect batteries 9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep". 10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control. 11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle: 15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn" its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed. gonna go and try it right now Hope it helps Last edited by alwayslearnin; 06-23-2012 at 10:35 AM. |
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Could a bad or plugged EBP sensor cause the VGT to not operate properly? Anyone ever expiriance that?
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Check your fuel pressure.
Sent from my SCH-I500 |
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so i tried the relearn procedure and it worked. the only thing that was unclear was when to start it. I tried it at first cycling twice and then starting and it didn't work. tried it a second time starting it on the second cycle and it worked.
Truck now has a bit of a strange surge in the higher rpm's but we will see whether that goes away after some time. |
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good luck with that. anymore help just let me know
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