Oil leak ??? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Oil leak ???

Ok, so the engine in my truck now has an oil leak somewhere around the engine/tranny connection.. I have heard alot about the bed plate leaking and that you have to take out the engine to fix it. Well i talked to my dealership just now and he explained to me that the bedplate was underneath the oil pan and that is why I need to take out the engine (to be able to take out the oil pan)

The thing that gets me is that I have taken Two oil pans off already (when swapping engines) while the engine was still in the truck. That makes me think that I can swap out the bed plate while the engine is still in the truck. It might not be the best way but I REALLY don't want to take the engine out for the third time


Can any technicians give me some insight please. I would be doing this work with the cab off and realize that I will need to lift up the engine from the frame a couple inches

Can it be done???
What should I know in order to do it?


I will be doing this work along with studs, gaskets, STC fitting, standpipes and ect.


Thank you for the help!!!

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post #2 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 04:17 PM
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I don't have the answer, but I'm going to follow this thread and see how it goes.

Keep us posted along the way.
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 04:28 PM
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Don't forget pictures

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post #4 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 05:07 PM
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Mine also had the rear main replaced while I had the bed plate leak repaired. Not sure how much work it is to doubt I was glad it got done. You never know when that is going to go out. I look forward to the pics and write up of this process.

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post #5 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 06:16 PM
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If you can remove the bed plate, reseal the union, and reinstall the bedplate without the crankshaft, rods, and pistons falling out of the bottom of the motor you'll save yourself a lot of labor. Unfortunately, we live on earth with 9.8m/sec² so the motor has to be removed and rotated upside down to reseal the bedplate. My opinion: If the leak is more of a seep or a very small leak just leave it as I'd rather someone not remove my engine and everything attached to it as it will never be like the factory built it. If it's warranty work maybe let them do it but I wouldn't pay a shop to reseal the bedplate out of my pocket unless the leak was somewhat substantial.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 06:36 PM
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ICP sensor! Mine sprung a leak so I took it to the Ford dealership and they said rear main seal was bad. Talked to an old diesel mechanic and he said the only way to tear up the rear seal is if I was trying to pull down a house with the truck. He said check the ICP sensor, I did and it was leaking. Replaced it and the leak went away!

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post #7 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 06:50 PM
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haha don't tell anyone but i do them in the cab all the time. the oil pan does come out without pulling the engine, however the bedplate will not come out. parts you will need are the front and rear cover gasket, the front and rear crank seal, and upper and lower oil pan gasket, as well as the bedplate gasket and about 5 tubes of red motorcraft gasket maker. and a little silicone for the tabs. you can't pull the bed plate but you can lower it down. it'll rest across the cross member. plenty of room to clean it, put a new gasket on and gasket maker and put it back up and torque it. the rear cover, and front cover will need to be removed in order to gain access though. oh and as far as the crank failling out, after you remove the front and rear cover, but before removing the bedplate, just attach ratchet straps to the crank balancers. no problem! questions
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 07:36 PM
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For what it's worth, there is a HUGE difference between the oil pan and the bedplate. Obviously, the person you spoke to at the dealer is feeding you a pile of cowchips. You are correct that oil pan removal/replace on a 6.0L does NOT require engine removal. On a 7.3L on the other hand....

NOW, the bedplate is a whole different story. First off, let's just clarify WHAT exactly the bedplate is. On this particular engine, there are no main bearing caps that secure the crankshaft to the block. The bedplate on this engine IS all the main bearing caps if you will, all in one entire "girdle" type assembly. In other words, the lower half of the block. To access and remove, requires engine removal, both the front and rear engine covers removed, as well as the upper and lower oil pans.

All of this, of course mandates replacement of all the gaskets associated with the covers and oil pans, along with the front and rear main seals. Both of which require use of the Ford/Rotunda tools specifically intended for the install (of the front and rear main seals). By the way, the rear main seal is updated, which requires use of the 2009 and newer E-Series 6.0L workshop manual procedure to install as well.

I hope this clears things up.

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post #9 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
For what it's worth, there is a HUGE difference between the oil pan and the bedplate. Obviously, the person you spoke to at the dealer is feeding you a pile of cowchips. You are correct that oil pan removal/replace on a 6.0L does NOT require engine removal. On a 7.3L on the other hand....

NOW, the bedplate is a whole different story. First off, let's just clarify WHAT exactly the bedplate is. On this particular engine, there are no main bearing caps that secure the crankshaft to the block. The bedplate on this engine IS all the main bearing caps if you will, all in one entire "girdle" type assembly. In other words, the lower half of the block. To access and remove, requires engine removal, both the front and rear engine covers removed, as well as the upper and lower oil pans.

All of this, of course mandates replacement of all the gaskets associated with the covers and oil pans, along with the front and rear main seals. Both of which require use of the Ford/Rotunda tools specifically intended for the install (of the front and rear main seals). By the way, the rear main seal is updated, which requires use of the 2009 and newer E-Series 6.0L workshop manual procedure to install as well.

I hope this clears things up.


Yeah this clears up that I am WAYYYY over my head trying to do this




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post #10 of 10 Old 06-22-2012, 08:52 PM
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It was way over my head reading it. I should've gave up half way through, now I've got a headache

John

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http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/wcs...rnia-chat.html
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