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post #1 of 30 Old 06-14-2012, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Temperature Qualms

This is an issue that has been going on for a little while and I could use some opinions on what to do to fix it.

I do a lot of highway driving on the weekends and typically when I get off of the highway and into stop and go traffic, my truck idles kinda rough. It never stalls or feels like it has a lack of power. My temps have been acting up a lot lately as well and I'm thinking it is related.

I feel like it is related to a higher oil temp that causes the rough running. When going down the highway my temps are usually, ECT:196-200 EOT:~210 sometimes more TFT: 165-170. It seems to run a little better when I get off interstate and get the oil temps to drop.

Before I did the coolant flush, new oil cooler and egr delete, my coolant would hardly ever touch 200. It used to sit at 192-194 no matter what I was doing. Even with my 30 degree deltas. Now, just driving around town unloaded it gets up to 208 but usually stays around ECT:200-204 and EOT:206-208 TFT:174ish

As a solution, im going to start running either seafoam or diesel kleen (only stuff i can seem to find) every tank. Im currently running 15w-40 oil and I have heard that a 10w or 5W is better? Im worried somethings wrong but I don't know where to start.


-Brian

2003 F-250 6.0L - Lariat King Ranch
-300k+ miles and still strong
Current Mods
-6.5" Pro-Comp lift
-Edge CTS
-SCT X3 (Tuned by Vivian )
-4" Turbo Back Silverline Exhaust, 5"tip
-Blue Spring Mod
-Sinister Coolant Filter
-Oil Cooler
-Sinister EGR Delete
-OEM Cab Lights
Wants/Soon
-ARP Studs
-MTW Stage 1 or Hybrid
-6.4 Banjo Bolts?
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post #2 of 30 Old 06-14-2012, 06:32 AM
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Those temps are fine considering it is summertime and the outside temps are higher. I would think you have injector stiction, which is likely caused by your running conventional motor oil. Dump two bottles of Rev-x in the oil and run it for a while. At your next oil change add synthetic motor oil (most of us use Rotella T6) and add another bottle of Rev-x. If your injectors aren't too bad, it will help considerably. If not, you might be looking at some new injectors.

PS. What is your FICM voltage both while cranking the engine and while running?

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #3 of 30 Old 06-14-2012, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Eye View Post
Those temps are fine considering it is summertime and the outside temps are higher. I would think you have injector stiction, which is likely caused by your running conventional motor oil. Dump two bottles of Rev-x in the oil and run it for a while. At your next oil change add synthetic motor oil (most of us use Rotella T6) and add another bottle of Rev-x. If your injectors aren't too bad, it will help considerably. If not, you might be looking at some new injectors.

PS. What is your FICM voltage both while cranking the engine and while running?
Ok, I know to max temps are still a ways away from my temps but it just seemed odd that it never used to get hotter than 192. I was thinking stiction which is why i asked about the oil weight because I have heard that helps too. Is there anything special I have to do to switch to synthetic oil? Like dump a court through with the plug out as a flush or anything?

Im not sure what the voltage is while cranking but while running it is always 47.5v-48v and it occasionally gets to 47v. However, this past weekend my alternator was acting kinda funny and I saw it drop to 46.5 a few times. Ill get the starting voltages tonight when I get home.


-Brian

2003 F-250 6.0L - Lariat King Ranch
-300k+ miles and still strong
Current Mods
-6.5" Pro-Comp lift
-Edge CTS
-SCT X3 (Tuned by Vivian )
-4" Turbo Back Silverline Exhaust, 5"tip
-Blue Spring Mod
-Sinister Coolant Filter
-Oil Cooler
-Sinister EGR Delete
-OEM Cab Lights
Wants/Soon
-ARP Studs
-MTW Stage 1 or Hybrid
-6.4 Banjo Bolts?
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post #4 of 30 Old 06-14-2012, 11:36 AM
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Sounds like your FICM might be getting weak. At those voltages, it doesn't indicate a problem, BUT most stay right around 48V. I would be interested in your voltage while cranking the engine over.

You don't need to do anything different for the synthetic oil. Just drain the old stuff out, change the filter, put the plug back in (very important step... ) and top off with synthetic.

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #5 of 30 Old 06-14-2012, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Eye View Post
Sounds like your FICM might be getting weak. At those voltages, it doesn't indicate a problem, BUT most stay right around 48V. I would be interested in your voltage while cranking the engine over.

You don't need to do anything different for the synthetic oil. Just drain the old stuff out, change the filter, put the plug back in (very important step... ) and top off with synthetic.
Well I guess I would rather the FICM be bad than the injectors. The bill for an FICM is a little easier to stomach than a set of injectors... Id say 98% of the time it is around 47.5-48v. I may have some charging system problems too. My battery cables are a bit fudged up and corroded. I will take a video of it tonight and post my findings.

I didn't think there was but I went to buy so synthetic oil for when I did the oil cooler and egr delete and my dad stopped my and said that there is usually something special to changing it so i just went with the cheap ford powerstroke oil. No lie about the plug though, made it through 2 quarts on my mustang before I realized I left the plug out


-Brian

2003 F-250 6.0L - Lariat King Ranch
-300k+ miles and still strong
Current Mods
-6.5" Pro-Comp lift
-Edge CTS
-SCT X3 (Tuned by Vivian )
-4" Turbo Back Silverline Exhaust, 5"tip
-Blue Spring Mod
-Sinister Coolant Filter
-Oil Cooler
-Sinister EGR Delete
-OEM Cab Lights
Wants/Soon
-ARP Studs
-MTW Stage 1 or Hybrid
-6.4 Banjo Bolts?
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post #6 of 30 Old 06-14-2012, 12:41 PM
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If you're having potential electrical issues with your alternator and / or batteries, that could certainly cause the issues you're experiencing. Personally, that would be the first thing I'd troubleshoot.
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post #7 of 30 Old 06-14-2012, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake View Post
If you're having potential electrical issues with your alternator and / or batteries, that could certainly cause the issues you're experiencing. Personally, that would be the first thing I'd troubleshoot.
That's what my plan is for this weekend. Im going to try and redo all my battery terminals if I have enough cable, they are a bit corroded.

I did just buy some rev-x because it can't hurt.


-Brian

2003 F-250 6.0L - Lariat King Ranch
-300k+ miles and still strong
Current Mods
-6.5" Pro-Comp lift
-Edge CTS
-SCT X3 (Tuned by Vivian )
-4" Turbo Back Silverline Exhaust, 5"tip
-Blue Spring Mod
-Sinister Coolant Filter
-Oil Cooler
-Sinister EGR Delete
-OEM Cab Lights
Wants/Soon
-ARP Studs
-MTW Stage 1 or Hybrid
-6.4 Banjo Bolts?
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post #8 of 30 Old 06-18-2012, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
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My appologies for just now getting the video, had one hell of a weekend with my little lady lol.


Now that im looking at it I think my batteries could be the culprit. I never see what it is on start up because my cts doesnt turn on till after I crank unless I touch the screen.


-Brian

2003 F-250 6.0L - Lariat King Ranch
-300k+ miles and still strong
Current Mods
-6.5" Pro-Comp lift
-Edge CTS
-SCT X3 (Tuned by Vivian )
-4" Turbo Back Silverline Exhaust, 5"tip
-Blue Spring Mod
-Sinister Coolant Filter
-Oil Cooler
-Sinister EGR Delete
-OEM Cab Lights
Wants/Soon
-ARP Studs
-MTW Stage 1 or Hybrid
-6.4 Banjo Bolts?
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post #9 of 30 Old 06-18-2012, 05:21 AM
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I have the insight CTS, put the key on, press the screen...the cts will turn on and after you see the load up screen with all your gauges, turn the key off then quickly back on to crank, you shoud see it register
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post #10 of 30 Old 06-18-2012, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thats basically what I did, I just had to wait a bit longer to start than I normally do. Thats partially why it took so long to crank in the video. The other reason is my glow plug module is bad.


-Brian

2003 F-250 6.0L - Lariat King Ranch
-300k+ miles and still strong
Current Mods
-6.5" Pro-Comp lift
-Edge CTS
-SCT X3 (Tuned by Vivian )
-4" Turbo Back Silverline Exhaust, 5"tip
-Blue Spring Mod
-Sinister Coolant Filter
-Oil Cooler
-Sinister EGR Delete
-OEM Cab Lights
Wants/Soon
-ARP Studs
-MTW Stage 1 or Hybrid
-6.4 Banjo Bolts?
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