Laundry list of issues NEED Advice

[bulldog55964]

This my be me trying to find a different problem than i think i have but The past few days my truck has had some extended cranks when warm. Excuse me it is a 05 6.0 75k bpd oil cooler, bpd egr cooler, sct towing tune. stand pipes, dummy plugs, stc fitting, oil supply and drain for turbo, blue spring, 6.4 banjos and injectors were all replaced in dec of 11.

I know that this all points to bad hpop or hpo leak but then i think 05 hpops are rare to go out and i have all updated parts in. My heads have never been checked and i do see some foam in my degas but there are no signs of oil(bpd cooler) no smell of fuel and it doesnt puke. I hooked up the scanner and it has a p2285 and p 0272 (non-mil and neither are active) one is icp pressure and the other is #4 cyl contribution I have a AE scanner coming from BPD as we speak to check HPO pressures. The truck fires up good cold and always starts but when warm it takes 10 -12 seconds of cranking with no oil pressure on the idiot gauge until right before it starts.

I dont know enough about the Oil pressure regulator to be sure either way but when i pulled the allen bolt there is slight pressure from the spring going back in. Not a lot of pressure but i can feel it there. Is this ok? Or is this suppose to be relaxed till just before the bolt is tight and the oil pressure puts the tension on the spring. There is no noticeable foam in the pan to point to a cracked pickup tube and even then i should have low lpo at idle correct?

I guess my main questions are has anyone ever cracked a head where it could effect HPO? Also any info pertaining to the OIl pressure regulator (behind the dampner). How to tell if its bad?(lots of spring pressure or any at all) or does this sound like injector O rings Thanks in advance for any help you guys made my life alot easier when putting the bpd kit in
Dan

[bulldog55964]

anyone

[bulldog55964]

So the AE came yesterday and i think i'm gonna be tearing this motor down very soon. My ficm sync and CKP and CmP sync are both good but the truck when warm is not asking for HPO till my LPO starts to climb. Am i missing the LPO gauge on AE cause i cant find it. i am just going off the dummy gauge for lpo. Is there a good place to put a mechanical gauge on the bulletproof kit? My injector buzz test passes but when the injectors fire individually i only hear a "click" and not a "buzz". It buzzes when all hit together and all cylinders click individually. To make matters worse my truck has started to puke coolant and is burning some oil on start - up This is starting to look expensive . I have no idea where to start but i think mon im just gonna start tear down and see what i find, hopefully a tech can chime in and point me in the right direction. i know im gonna need head gaskets and studs so this may be the time to do it.

[Tylus]

check your dummy plugs and the stc fitting while you are in there.

I've read countless threads where guys had hot start issues. The Dummy fittings o-ring fails and when hot, don't seal. When cold, they seal up and let enough pressure build to start the truck.

best of luck. use only OEM gaskets and get those heads decked and checked before putting back onto the truck. are you going to go ahead and stud it?

[bulldog55964]

Yea i am thinking this maybe the case even tho all the updated parts were just installed 6 monthes ago

[strokemyego]

if you have updated dummy plugs and an stc fitting. i hate to say it but on rare occasion a have seen the branch tube cause hpo problems. a terrible job to do! the branch tube is what the stc fitting sits on. it wraps around the back of the engine to in front of the lifters.

[bulldog55964]

Well i got it all fixed. Runs like a million bucks now. The number 6 injector top o ring is toast. I get why there would be a number 4 contribution code via lower psi down the rail from the leak. But why not a number 2 contribution code? I dont know if this is common knowlege and i just missed it but in order to Air check a HPO leak with updated Stand pipes you have to check each side individually. Otherwise the Check valve screws with the Air pressure trying to go backwards into D/S Oil rail. It also lowers psi going to HPOP and branch tube connector Here is why the tear down took so long she felt the need to help but just distracted me

[southend]

Originally Posted by bulldog55964

Well i got it all fixed. Runs like a million bucks now. The number 6 injector top o ring is toast. I get why there would be a number 4 contribution code via lower psi down the rail from the leak. But why not a number 2 contribution code? I dont know if this is common knowlege and i just missed it but in order to Air check a HPO leak with updated Stand pipes you have to check each side individually. Otherwise the Check valve screws with the Air pressure trying to go backwards into D/S Oil rail. It also lowers psi going to HPOP and branch tube connector Here is why the tear down took so long she felt the need to help but just distracted me

wow.............i have no idea how you got that fixed. Good man.:thumbup:

Sent from my SCH-I500