What is easier for removing icp and ipr??? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-19-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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What is easier for removing icp and ipr???

Is it easier to remove the turbo and go from the top or go from underneath? ? What size sockets do I need for these???

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post #2 of 9 Old 02-19-2012, 05:08 PM
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i went from the top without removing turbo. pull, intake, degas bottle FICM and bracket, rear stud for intake (you will know which one I'm talking about) for ICP you will need a 1 1/16" Deep socket swivel and a extension. IPR needs a special socket i bought mine of eBay for $28 with free shipping. you can reach around the back side of the y pipe or go underneath it.

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post #3 of 9 Old 02-23-2012, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by roche837 View Post
i went from the top without removing turbo. pull, intake, degas bottle FICM and bracket, rear stud for intake (you will know which one I'm talking about) for ICP you will need a 1 1/16" Deep socket swivel and a extension. IPR needs a special socket i bought mine of eBay for $28 with free shipping. you can reach around the back side of the y pipe or go underneath it.
Thanks for the info I started digging in yesterday. I used your method with good results. I have everything out of the way I just have to try and pull the icp sensor now. The pig tail full of gummy sticky oil. I couldn't even see where the contacts were inside the plug.

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post #4 of 9 Old 02-29-2012, 07:31 AM
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How did you ever make out? Fix your problem?

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post #5 of 9 Old 02-29-2012, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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I did get the icp out and it was leaking oil so I replaced it knowing it might not fix the issue but still needed to be done. I ended up going to a place here in town called Oregon Fuel Injection and a friend that works there hooked it to his lap top and checked everything out. The only thing he found is injector #3 was showing a contribution issue but it wasn't consistent. After he reset it the code didn't come back till the next day. He said it might be a sticky spool in the injector. But he also said he wants me to change the fuel filters and check for breaks in the wiring harness. He said that one of those being an issue was more likely since it only started directly after I did the EGR delete. So fuel filters today and then gunna pull the harness tomorrow.

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post #6 of 9 Old 03-01-2012, 07:53 AM
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let me know how you make out, maybe try some Rev X too.

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post #7 of 9 Old 03-01-2012, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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So today I pulled the #3 injector and the o rings looked good. Had air in the fuel filter housing and the #3 injector was starting to set an imbalance code. The o rings looked good but decided to just replace the injector in case. Pulled the rest on the pass side and found that #7 was a reman and when I pulled it, from the white o ring down to the copper ring was covered in a gel substance I'm assuming is fuel that had passed the copper washer. It looked as if all of the injector copper washers were leaking combustion gas past them. But I can't tell if its passing the white o ring. The only one not leaking past was the injector that was bad.

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post #8 of 9 Old 03-01-2012, 07:13 PM
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i believe if it passes the copper washer it is going to pass the orings and introduce combustion gases into the fuel system = air in the fuel filter housing.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-02-2012, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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You could start to loosen the fuel filter cap and it would hiss at ya. Then when you look inside it was pretty frothy and bubbly.

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