2007 F250 6.0 No Start - HELP!

[Tug]

Hey fellas, my F250 wont start. Heres whats been happening:

About 3 weeks ago, I pulled in to get fuel. Truck was and has been running fine. When I finished pumping, it cranked about 5 seconds before starting.

Then it didnt do it again for about a week.

Until now, its done it about 5 times total. When its cold, it starts fast everytime.

Today, I stopped and it cranked long again. I got to where I was going and about 4 hours later, no start at all.

I do have a Snap On SOlus scanner but I havent scanned it yet. I hear these year trucks usually dont have ICP problems but they do have HPOP troubles. Any ideas?

And will my Snap On scanner read ICP and HPOP? If so, what values are acceptable?

Thanks for the help!!!!

[Tommyboy7777]

Mine did this last summer,was HPOP,wasnt building enough pressure to start.In my opinion its def HPOP!

[m-chan68]

Throw away that scan tool of yours and go to your nearest Ford store to purchase part numbers -W302908 (two needed) and 4C3Z-9B246-F (one needed) to give you everything you need to fix your problem PERMANENTLY. Don't go over spending money on a new HPOP needlessly. Remove both valve covers (eleven 12mm bolts/studs each side). Remove the dummy rail plugs on each bank of cylinders (10mm allen head). Replace them with the updated rail plugs (12mm allen head required) and torque to 60 ft-lbs. It will be obvious why you are doing this, once you remove the old plugs. Access and remove the HPOP by removing the turbo and pedestal. Remove the upper exhaust manifold to y-pipe nuts and bolts on each side. LOOSEN the lower ones on each side. Remove the IPR valve. Remove all eight 8mm HPOP top cover bolts (2 or 3 of them under the EGR cooler will need to remain in the cover due to lack of clearance). Remove the bolts that secure the heat shield to the rear of the HPOP top cover and the exhaust y-pipe shield (four 8mm bolts in total). FINESSE the HPOP cover off, TAKING CARE NOT TO DROP THE TWO BOLTS STILL IN THE COVER INTO THE ENGINE!!! Remove the HPOP (two 8mm bolts, and three TX-45 bolts). Install new updated branch tube connector. Installation is just the reverse of removal. Once everything is reassembled, crank the engine over like there's no tomorrow, and road test it doing a bunch of maximum, wide open throttle accelerations. Verify the repair by shutting the engine down, and attempting to restart it. Good luck and have fun.

[Tug]

Thanks! I'll look into doing that! Except the part about throwing my scanner away. LOL


Walked out this morning, hit the key and it started right up! WTF?

[Tug]

Oh yeah....

I was getting ready to do an EGR delete and replace the oil cooler as well. Should I do what you suggested and the EGR and cooler all at same time? Im sure your answer is yes.... but just checking.

[kingranch89]

when you have high pressure oil problems they only will show usually when the truck is hot because the oil is thinner and has trouble building the pressure to fire the injectors already been through all of this just listen to mchan he knows what he is talking about for sure

[Tug]

I agree with it usually happening when its warm and its had a few long crank issues at times when the engine was warm but this time, it was sitting for 4 or 5 hours out in 20 degree weather. Just didnt make sense to me.