2006 6.0L No Start, Stuck On Site!

[Bare55]

My 2006 F-250 6.0L is now stuck at the jobsite! It was cranking longer than usual for the last week. Started fine this morning, went to start at lunch and it cranked so long it drained my batteries. I have it charging now and will try to start later.
Wanted to get some ideas of what I may be up against before I have it towed if no start after charge. I assume it has something to do with FICM.
Truck has new alternator and starter. Batteries were tested a few weeks ago. Changed oil and fuel filters last night. Used Napa Filters. Some have say this is a bad idea. Also, added Hot Shot Secret (2 quarts) to oil to help with smoother starts, running and injector maintenance. Thanks for your time.

[2006PSDSD]

Check the FICM voltages. Plug it in if you can, that may get it started for you when quitting time comes around, and you can get it looked at, at home. Batteries were tested individually, and completely disconnected from the truck? If they had gone bad in the past, that would contribute to a failed FICM

[2006PSDSD]

Any DTC's?

[dannyboy950]

You really need to have it scaned look for codes and read live data as well. No start can be caused by low fuel pressure, low oil pressure, FICM voltage problems as well as just electrical wireing problems.

[Lefty Lawn Man]

Got fuel in the filter housing under ther hood?

[troyford417]

Maybe time for a new STC fitting. I just replaced mine after 100,000 miles. 06 6.0l also...

[Bare55]

Thanks for the replies. Its great to know there are other like minded people out there willing to help. I ended up putting a charger on and plugging it in until later in the afternoon and it fired up. I went directly to buddy with a scanner and no codes (besides the EGR delete codes it always shows). Let it run for a couple hours and work the new oil and fuel through the filters. Plugged in last night and it fired right up this morning. Once home, I let it sit for half hour and tried to start up again (no plug in between, temps are amazingly warm in MN right now high, mid 50's). It cranked really long almost close to dead, then started.
Plan to get the meter on the FICM this weekend, assuming no issues before then...
Thanks again for the support. A few more rookie questions...

Any tips at making getting to FICM faster and or easier?
Will low voltages on FICM show on code scanner?
Is it worth waiting for a Swamps "Hot" FICM vs. OEM?
Is the STC fitting connected to HPOP?
Whats the likely hood of the pump being bad and if so is there a better non OEM pump that anyone has installed and would recommend?
I dont want to start stripping this motor unless I have to. Are there any tell all signs for bad STC fitting vs. HPOP?

ANYONE WANT TO TRADE MY 2006 FOR A 2003 7.3L?

[joe_r_dog]

send it to ed at ficmrepair.com He gets it back to u fast.

usually low vlt doesnt show but will obviously show on vltmeter. toher probablems will be codes.

i think u would be best off with Ed's ficm repair

Stc connects hpop to branch tube. yes, it connectedto it.

highly doubt hpop is bad. not common on 05-07

hpop probably wont ever go out. u can tell stc fitting with air test. and checking with item like scangauge2 u can tell if theres a leak. air test just pinpoints it.

[2006PSDSD]

Bulletproof just replaced the power side of my FICM (they don't redo the solder joints anymore), and I'm seeing 48-49v, even on cold start. Cost me $320 with shipping. You can have it back in 3 days if you pay for overnight back to you, BPD will send you an overnight Fedex label to get it to them after you make the purchase

My FICM was dropping all the way to 29v after start up, but I never got a DTC, checked with my AE

Check your ICP, that'll tell you if the STC or dummy plugs are leaking. Other tests are out there to determine which one is leaking

IMHO, don't waste your money with Swamps, it's overpriced

Like Joe said, the 05-07 HPOP's are solid unit, not a common failure

Keep the 6.0, it's no worse than sitting in a parking lot because your GP relay, or crank sensor took a dump on a 7.3