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Old 01-02-2012, 01:44 PM
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I did EVERYTHING wrong now I need help

Hello Everyone,
I've been a stalker on the site for some time and now I speak-up to ask for help.

Quick Bio: (154,000mi/bone stock)
My truck has/had an on going problem for about 4years and I've asked everyone in the world for help and have had it in 4different shops with no help. My truck would rev(surge) without touching the gas. At a stoplight with your foot on the brake it would at times push you forward if you didn't have the brake pressed hard. If the fuel tank was full it wouldn't show up until 1/4tank but it could do it at any time Full-1/2-1/4 but was always worse when fuel was low. So I drove this truck everyday used to it running wrong. At the same time IT NEVER didn't run and NEVER left me stranded. I think I got used to explaining to anyone in the truck it
"had a mind of it's own" Soooooo

I mention this (it always running poor)because I feel like such a sh$t-head for doing this:

About 6months back I tore the lower rad hose and the truck overheated. Not bad I caught it early on an shut the motor off on I95 and coasted it off the highway. I replaced the hose and used the Universal Anti-freeze. That is my first mistake.

Fast forward to last month. I was washing my truck and I noticed the radiator fluid was low so I filed it with water. I kept an eye on it an added water a few more times.

Then it all went bad. Towing a small trailer (maybe 800lbs max) it overheated. I checked the fluid and it was empty an thought I had a leak. I filed it (maybe 2-3gal worth) and limped home.

When I tried to re-start it it had hydro-locked and the idiot I am I kept keep turning the key. It pushed out at least a gallon of antifreeze out the tail pipe. Most would stop there and say "something is wrong"... I drove it the next day and after it heated up it looked like a steam engine.

I shut it off and it was hydro-locked again and I burned up the starter trying to start it again.

At least I admit I'm a sh$t-head.

So,the Universal antifreeze clogged the oil cooler and the EGR went. At this point I figure take the heads off and see what else is bad.

Yesterday I got the heads off (cab-on) and the water left in the cylinders has left a mark on the walls but worse is the water channels are all rusty BAD!! I cleaned the water out cylinders and loaded them with bp blaster. It sat hydo-locked for at least 2weeks.

My question (I got a bunch) is: What am I gonna do about the rust. Or the junk I got in the coolent channels? I've drained EVERYTHING an have the radiator being chem cleaned. I'm replacing the heater core and the oil cooler but then what? I put the whole thing back together an then what? All this junk is clearly going to clog the oil cooler right way.

I will flush,flush,flush and back flush but should I just plan on changing the oil cooler again very soon.

At this point I have spent more time reading this forum and every other I can find then it took me to get the heads off(It was a b$tch) but I haven't seen anything about this situation.

My heads are at the machine shop being cleaned and checked an I have all parts and many upgrades in hand and before I put it back together I figured I'd ask about the coolent problem

Thanks for hanging in there on this long post.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskIt View Post
Yesterday I got the heads off (cab-on) and the water left in the cylinders has left a mark on the walls but worse is the water channels are all rusty BAD!! I cleaned the water out cylinders and loaded them with bp blaster. It sat hydo-locked for at least 2weeks.
Can you actually feel the mark it has left on the cylinder walls?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskIt View Post
My question (I got a bunch) is: What am I gonna do about the rust. Or the junk I got in the coolent channels? I've drained EVERYTHING an have the radiator being chem cleaned. I'm replacing the heater core and the oil cooler but then what? I put the whole thing back together an then what? All this junk is clearly going to clog the oil cooler right way.

I will flush,flush,flush and back flush but should I just plan on changing the oil cooler again very soon.
That is pretty much all you can do at this point. Flush the ever-livin-crap out of it after its all back together. Buy yourself a coolant bypass filtration and put that on the second your flush is done.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:54 PM
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Picture of the gunk in the intake
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:57 PM
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Pic's


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Old 01-02-2012, 02:00 PM
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You will want to have your intake manifold cleaned, as well as split the turbo to clean that out too. Coolant went through the turbo on its way out the exhaust.
The coolant and soot gets cooked by the heat and makes a nice muck that will impede the free movement of the vanes that control the boost.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
Buy yourself a coolant bypass filtration and put that on the second your flush is done.
Thanks NYC, is that like the sinister coolant filter? I thought they just filter a little of the coolant at a time. They help on the long haul ie. over time.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:03 PM
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They do not see full coolant flow. If they did and the filter plugged, you would be in a world of hurt. Its a bypass system, so if the filter gets plugged, it does not impede coolant flow.
At this point, some is better than none.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
You will want to have your intake manifold cleaned, as well as split the turbo to clean that out too. Coolant went through the turbo on its way out the exhaust.
The coolant and soot gets cooked by the heat and makes a nice muck that will impede the free movement of the vanes that control the boost.
I dropped off the intake with the radiator but forgot about the turbo. That's why I'm asking for help. While its apart is there anything I can do to modify the turbo. I hate/love working on my stuff so while I hate to actually do the work I love to get into what I'm doing and if I'm going to do it I'd like to do as much as possible once.

Mods on hand to install:
ARP studs (cant swing the H11's) / OEM hg's
07 Turbo drain tube
Banjo bolts
5" straight pipe
Fuel pressure spring (blue)

and all new OEM parts to put it back together
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:24 PM
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Coolant filter now on list along with a few filters.

3 of my pistons (pic's on the way) have what I've seen people call a star pattern burned in them. Its now a star and on one its only one large burn maybe an 1/4" at the outside edge of the piston. An other one has maybe 3 or 4 of these marks burned in it.

No tuner, bone stock

My buddy was trying out his new snap-on computer with my truck and he thought my #8 injector wasn't working correctly. Again it was the first thing he hooked it up to so we didn't put much love into it. The piston on the pass side rear has the worse burn marks in it.

NYC, you had also asked about being able to feel the stains the water had left. I'd say I'd need to clean them better to tell for sure. I was thinking a light scuff (like a green pad from my kitchen) would tell me more.

I can say on the drivers side I had to leave the last head bolt in it and when I was removing the head it slid into the cylinder and scratched the cylinder wall. VERY LIGHTLY, you cant feel it but it left a mark..
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:27 PM
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Turbo cleaning pdf file

Well, the dummy plugs and the standpipes should be done $102.30 (assuming you have a late 04-up engine)

Oil cooler and HPOP reservoir screen kit $231.00

Turbo cleaning kit: $57.20

Updated turbo oil supply line: $77.00 (assuming you do not have an early 03 engine)

High Pressure Oil Pump replacement fitting: $38.50 (only needed for 05-up engines)

Turbo mounting hardware kit: $7.70

Intake manifold gasket: $9.74 each (X2)

The egr cooler delete kit of your choice, should you choose to delete the cause of your current problem.
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