idle surge, engine power loss-no codes

[notamechanic]

I have an 05 6.0L and had my FICM changed about a month ago due to running rough when cold. That seemed to fix the problem. Within the last few weeks, i have another problem. When i am going down the road, the engine seems to loose power. When i give it some pedal, it will pick back up. It acts like i let off the pedal. It also surges at idle sometimes. Last week, i stopped at the store, and it wouldnt start. Let is sit for a few hours and it cranked right up. Brought it to the shop, and it showed no codes. The only thing he noticed was when the RPMS were fluctuating, the oil pressure was too. They kept it for a couple days and could not duplicate the missing or the no start. Drove to work this morning, it lost power once, but would restart. I have no clue. Any help would be appreciated.

[thomaslord84]

From the info you have gave I would guess at a fuel PSI or VGT sticking. Did you put a FICM from Ford on it? Get a fuel PSI gauge, that will give vital info to solve this problem. We will need way more info to diagnose this for you. You need a Edge Insight or Scangauge II. Ford never put a fuel PSI gauge on these trucks so you will have to get the sender and gauge and rig it up. The Insight can monitor just about everything else.

[notamechanic]

I am not sure if the FICM was aftermarket, but it did not come from Ford.

[Burnt Orange]

Not to redirect the thread but what would be the tell tale sign that a FICM is bad?

I have had what I thought was a "stiction" problem with my 05' and I've tried RevX twice, marvel mystery oil, Stanadyne to clean the fuel side of the house, and finally Hot Shots Secret in this current oil change.

I posted all this in another thread about revx and someone there mentioned that I might "check the health of my FICM".

How would I do this other than have a dealer do it? I did think about having a contribution test done. It starts jumpy when cold then idles smooth but try to drive away and it bucks, jumps, cusses and makes an a** of itself until it heats up and decides to run perfectly. It now takes a good 10 miles to straighten up when it used to take about a mile.

The injectors are original and 189000 miles old but like I said they work great once warm. I need to figure out for dang sure what the culprit is and how to go about it. Injector/injectors, or FICM so I'm not throwing expensive parts at it to chase down the problem. What I DON'T want to do is pay the local stealership big dollars to throw parts at it.

[thomaslord84]

Originally Posted by Burnt Orange

Not to redirect the thread but what would be the tell tale sign that a FICM is bad?

I have had what I thought was a "stiction" problem with my 05' and I've tried RevX twice, marvel mystery oil, Stanadyne to clean the fuel side of the house, and finally Hot Shots Secret in this current oil change.

I posted all this in another thread about revx and someone there mentioned that I might "check the health of my FICM".

How would I do this other than have a dealer do it? I did think about having a contribution test done. It starts jumpy when cold then idles smooth but try to drive away and it bucks, jumps, cusses and makes an a** of itself until it heats up and decides to run perfectly. It now takes a good 10 miles to straighten up when it used to take about a mile.

The injectors are original and 189000 miles old but like I said they work great once warm. I need to figure out for dang sure what the culprit is and how to go about it. Injector/injectors, or FICM so I'm not throwing expensive parts at it to chase down the problem. What I DON'T want to do is pay the local stealership big dollars to throw parts at it.

If you don't have an Edge Insight then you need to do a search of this site on "FICM test". You will find a ton of threads on how to do this, you need to do it. Also if the stiction has been there for a while then it has probably totaled your injectors and nothing but replacing them will help. I have had the stock injectors for 194000 now, they can do it but you have to take care of your truck. It IS NOT a gasser you CAN NOT let the maintenance slip at all.

[thomaslord84]

Originally Posted by notamechanic

I am not sure if the FICM was aftermarket, but it did not come from Ford.

Ok, just how old are the injectors? Are they new or newly rebuilt?

[notamechanic]

the injectors are original

[notamechanic]

new developement. truck wouldnt start this evening. let it cool off and it started. made it about 1/4 mile and stopped at a stop sign. RPM went down and i lost all gas pedal. i can hold it to the floor and nothing happens. Any suggestions.

[HAM_RADIO_MAN]

Originally Posted by notamechanic

new developement. truck wouldnt start this evening. let it cool off and it started. made it about 1/4 mile and stopped at a stop sign. RPM went down and i lost all gas pedal. i can hold it to the floor and nothing happens. Any suggestions.

OK, heres the deal. You have a high pressure oil system problem. You have a leak past the stand pipes, dummy plugs or STC fitting. You have a variation in idle performance because the IPR is hunting all over the place to keep the ICP pressure were it needs to be. See the data below as well as the links and t-shooting guide in my sig. You will need to look at icp and IPR data to be sure. Let us know if you have any other questions or problems GOOD LUCK
I strongly feel that every owner of a 6.0 needs an engine monitoring solution. You can't beat a Scangauge2 for the price and all it does!!

http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Sca..._p/6000073.htm


READ THIS LINK.................................. DTS Articles - 6.0L ICP System Leaks


http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Sca..._p/6000073.htm

Q: What is a high pressure oil system leak.

A: On a 6.0 the fuel injectors are powered by high pressure oil in the range of 550 to 3500 psi. This oil is supplied by a high-pressure oil pump that is driven off the cam gear in the rear of the engine. The oil is transported via a network of connectors , tubes and passages that have o-rings , seals and connectors that over time will develop leaks. The main suspects are the stand pipes and dummy plugs under the valve covers inside the “ oil log” The next problem area on 05-07 trucks is what is know as an STC or Snap To Connect fitting. This fitting Blows apart randomly and your truck will be dead were it stops. This fitting is located on the output side of the HPOP and an updated solid part is available from Ford or International. High Pressure oil leaks can also occur at the injector o-rings or from cracked branch tubes but this is rare. The way to test for a high pressure oil leak is by injecting air into the ICP sensor port and listing for the leak. Some leakage at the HPOP shaft seal is normal. Normaly high pressure oil leaks will be characterized by high IPR values and below normal ICP values as well as hot start and rough hot idle problems.


Q: What is the best way to tell is my HPOP is going bad.

A: Remove the IPR valve and LOOK for Glitter on the screen. Any sign mean you need a HPOP as well as a new IPR valve.



Q: What are normal ICP and IPR values ?

A: Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
A: Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
A: Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
A: Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
A: If your engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP you might have an internal high pressure oil leak .


Q: My engine starts fine when cold but, I shut it off to run in the gas station and now it won't start hot. When it cools off a few hours it starts right up.

A: You most likely have a high Pressure oil leak at the STC fitting, Stand pipes , Dummy Plugs or injector O-rings

Here's the info from the Service CD for the ICP sensor.

Press Press Sensor
(PSI) (MPA) Voltage
0 0 .02v
200 1.5 .4v
400 3 0.73v
600 4 .96v
800 5.5 1.2v
1000 7 1.4v
1200 8 1.6v
1400 9.7 1.9v
1600 11 2.1v
1800 12.4 2.3v
2000 13.8 2.6v
2200 15.2 2.8v
2400 16.5 3v
2600 18 3.3v
2800 19.3 3.5v
3000 20.6 3.8v

[notamechanic]

Thanks for the help!!!