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Old 12-23-2011, 05:08 PM
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ROUGH IDLE HELP!!

Just got my truck back together after putting arp studs in.. now its hard to start and idle's rough almost like its missing. checked connections to injectors several times. still haven't got it figured out. it wouldnt start at first then i took the driver side valve cover off took the short stand pipe out of the front of the oil rail and turned the motor over until i had oil coming out it. put it all back together and it started now its just hard to start and idles rough. so please help. thanks in advance
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:53 PM
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Couple quick questions for ya.
1. Did you clean the cylinders out good? Vacuumed the coolant/oil out?
2. Did you change the oil before you started it?
3. Did you change the oil cooler and screen?

After all you did have the hpo system open, it will take a good romp to get the air purged out of it. let it idle for a while, and take it out for a few wide open runs and it should improve. and after i have done head gaskets i dont ever remember any of them firing right up and running smooth the first time after re-assembly. so dont be nervous.

If it doesnt clear up, make sure the ficm is fully connected. connectors fully seated.
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:20 PM
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Its having a problem with cylinder #5 has no power and rolling grey smoke. im also getting smoke out of the passenger side valve. coming out the oil fill tube. and i pulled the short tube out of the hp oil rail and let it turn over until oil came out. im pretty sure its not an injector.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:41 PM
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Well problem solved #4 cylinder bent exhaust pushrod. new question anyone know why that happened?
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Old 12-24-2011, 08:27 AM
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Ok did you do the studs because of a problem or just as a preventive up grade.
If you were haveing head/gasket problems you may have gotten coolant on top that cylinder and nearly hydro locked, since liguid doesn't compress something has to give, you probly had that yalve partially open and it bent the valve or the push rood gave enough and saved the valve. Hope yall checked the valve for free movement before ya buttoned her up.
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Old 12-24-2011, 08:27 PM
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yes i checked everything. it wasn't hydro locked. was running fine before i tore it down. only logical thing i can come up with is the cam had the rod at its highest point and when i bolted it back down it bent it. got a new one today and its running great.
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD_MILLS View Post
yes i checked everything. it wasn't hydro locked. was running fine before i tore it down. only logical thing i can come up with is the cam had the rod at its highest point and when i bolted it back down it bent it. got a new one today and its running great.
This is probably what happened. The manual tells you to put the dampner dowel pin at 6 o'clock so that no pistons are at TDC when bolting down the rockers.
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:33 AM
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it's also a good idea to spin the engine over by hand after the rockers are torqued down
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Old 12-25-2011, 04:09 PM
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yeah i know that its supposed to be at 6'oclock. i've read multiple books on this truck had several ppl tell me things that needed to be done. but it only bent one so its all okay running great now.
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Old 12-25-2011, 05:28 PM
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Cool, just trying to answer your question. Glad it's running good now.
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