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Old 12-19-2011, 02:26 PM
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Loosing Coolant

Trying to help a friend out. He keeps loosing coolant and says he thinks it is coming from the degas bottle (around the cap). How can you tell if its a hg issue or egr valve/cooler. He says no smoke from exhaust but can smell coolant under hood.

I pulled the egr valve out and it was fairly dry. The only moisture I found was on the bottom of the plunger.

Does any coolant actually flow through the the valve or is it just the exhaust gas.

This is on a 2006



He actually just signed up on here so he may chime in.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:51 PM
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Is it wet or is there white crust or residue out of the degas cap? If so then suspect a restricted oil cooler or possible head gasket issue. A restricted oil cooler will cause low coolant flow to the EGR cooler. The coolant flow goes thru the oil cooler then to the EGR cooler. If not enough coolant is flowing thru the EGR cooler then the coolant that is in it will actually overheat and start to boil. This will cause excessive coolant pressure which will vent thru the radiator cap. If you run the truck like this long enough then the EGR cooler will eventually rupture. Sometimes it will gush coolant out or sometime is will start out with just slowly using coolant. Normally you will have white smoking of some sorts with a blown EGR cooler.

No coolant actually passes thru the EGR valve itself, just the EGR cooler.

I would bet that the EGR cooler is leaking. Before you tear it down though you should check the health of the oil cooler. You need a scan tool of sorts to do this. Monitor engine oil temps (EOT) and engine coolant temps (ECT). Get the engine warmed up and go for a drive. Driving at 60mph watch EOT and ECT. They should be within a few degrees of each other if the oil cooler is close to 100%. If the EOT gets higher then 15 degrees of ECT then the oil cooler is restricted and should be replaced. The difference between EOT and ECT is often called the "delta".
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:21 PM
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I have AE scan tool I will check those tomorrow.
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:07 PM
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ok i checked EOT and ECT both stayed within 9-11 degrees of each other.

EOT 190
ECT 180
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:26 PM
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Ok so he took it to the Ford dealer to get it done under warranty (@85,000 miles).

They said bad oil cooler and egr.....but he is 2 months past warranty. I told him to fight it and see what they say if they will warranty it or not. I will see what the outcome is a post back.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:48 PM
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So its a no go with the dealership.

We are looking at doing studs, head Gaskets, oil cooler, egr delete,

Question on the flushing procedure.......I have read and read thread after thread and it all seems to be a blur. What would be the correct way (order) to flush? Should it be flushed before anything is removed (oil cooler/egr cooler)?

Any tips would be great. Is there an egr delete that is better than another. What is your guys preference?
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:03 PM
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Parts Listing: (Still a work in progress) 3C3Z-6A642-CA Oil Cooler Kit 3C3Z-6C683-AB HPOP Screen (Included in the Oil Cooler Kit) 4C3Z-9B246-F is the part number I found for the updated STC fitting with the IPR screen and o-rings. 3C3Z-9H529-A IPR SCREEN KIT (LIST $56.25) 3C3Z-9433-BE Intake Gasket Kit (Includes Turbo hardware) 3C3Z-9P455-AB EGR Gaskets 3C3Z-9T517-AG Fuel Pump Regulator Kit 6C3Z-9T515-A Turbo Drain Tube 3C3Z-9T516-A Turbo Oil Feed Line (LIST $157.41) 6.4 BANJO BOLTS (2)-W302472 bolts, (LIST $4.26 EACH) 6.4 BANJO WASHERS (4)-W303659 (LIST $.74 EACH) 3C3Z-8575-AA Thermostat (complete with housing, o ring) (LIST $42.35) CC2610 FLEETGUARD RESTORE (LIST GALLON $29.75) CC2638 FLEETGUARD RESTORE PLUS (LIST GALLON $32.97) ZXED-1 OR ZRXED1 ZEREX ELC CAT EC-1 CONCENTRATE (LIST $19.99 X 4 GAL) NT-EGRC-1 BULLETPROOF DIESEL EGR COOLER, SQUARE, (LIST $350 + $50 CORE CHARGE)

**And now we get to the cost of this whole package: For what I refer to as the minimum every driver needs to do: Edge Insight CS w/ EGT Probe ~440 Coolant Filter ~ $140 STC HPOP update and screen~$100 ('05-'07) Replaced Turbo Lines ~ $140 - 250 (Depending on year) Solution to EGR Cooler ~$350 (delete or Upgrade) Intake and EGR Gaskets ~$140 Switch to ELC ~ $140 Rebuild of the Oil Cooler ~$220 Parts ~ $1320 Labor for a Oil Cooler rebuild is around 8 hrs (example $85 hr) ~$680 This portion of the job can be handled by the DIY mechanic with the right resources.

If you are talking full bullet proofing, without the Remote Oil Cooler: ARP Studs ~$500 Ford OEM Gaskets ~$250 Intake Gaskets ~$140 Fuel Pump Regulator Upgrade ~$60 Banjo Bolts ~$14 Total Parts ~$2284 Labor on the Headstud job is around 30-38 Hrs (same rate $85 an hr) ~$3230. Plus the cost for the machinist to check and flatten the heads, replacement heads run around $1500



Is this pretty much everything you would need to do studs, head gaskets, oil cooler and egr delete. Truck has 80,000 miles on it should the turbo be cleaned also. What would it be cleaned with. I hear you can get the cleaner from ford, but have heard that it is not needed.
What else would you use.

Sorry for all the questions. I don't know a whole lot about the 6.0. I can do just about anything with the 7.3.
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:31 AM
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Sounds like pretty accurate parts listings and you have done a good amount of research. If he can swing it, definitely have the studs installed. Turbo can be cleaned with some abrasive green scrubbies. Not difficult to do at all. Once you get these issues fixed, the truck can be made VERY reliable.
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