Won't start after oil cooler and EGR delete

[code.mafia]

2006 F250. Replaced oil cooler, deleted EGR, blue spring upgrade. Had a little coolant in the oil so it's been drained and refilled. I'm also flushing coolant so it's been drained and refilled.

Buttoned everything up, cycled key 4 times and tried it. Turns over, injectors are clicking/buzzing like normal but it never fires.

Attempted to change secondary fuel filter but the plastic nut on top broke (most of it) so I can't look in the bowl to see if there's any fuel in it.

I've run the batteries down from cranking and recharged them both separately 3 times now.

I need help!



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[NYC F-350]

Did you get codes popping up?

[a2elvis]

If the injectors are buzzing then the FICM should not be the problem. The most likely cause is contamination of the screen on the IPR valve. Need to remove the valve and check the screen.

[code.mafia]

Can I plug my sct x3 from my truck into hers to pull codes?


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[code.mafia]

Where is the IPR valve?


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[code.mafia]

I can't see pics. I'm on my phone because it says the .org is infected.


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[code.mafia]

IPR, I bet that's it. That's the round elbow sticking up under the turbo mount facing drivers side? It's unplugged. Now I just gotta figure out how to reach it!


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[justinmix]

Originally Posted by a2elvis

If the injectors are buzzing then the FICM should not be the problem. The most likely cause is contamination of the screen on the IPR valve. Need to remove the valve and check the screen.

This is probably your issue. It happens a lot after oil cooler replacement. If you weren't extremely careful cleaning out the high pressure oil reservoir then dirt probably got sucked into the IPR valve causing it to get stuck open. I would pull the IPR and look at the screen. The IPR is located on the top of the HPOP. You will probably have to pull the turbo to get to it.

[code.mafia]

Can I get the turbo out without pulling the oil filter housing?

How do you take out the IPR? Does it unscrew with a wrench?


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[justinmix]

Yes, the turbo will come out without having to pull the alternator of the oil filter housing. It's tight but will come out. Best to disconnect the battery cables because you have to snake it out next to the alternator and you come close to the alternator hot post.

You should be able to get the IPR out with a big adjustable wrench. If I remember right it's a 1 3/8". I have a special socket for them but I've taken them out with an adjustable wrench.