HPOP leaking?

[JumpinJack]

Alright drove the truck 30 miles yesterday ran perfect. Stopped at conv store for five min and truck wont start, turns over fine but no fire. Used my scangauge and this is what I am getting FICM main power 48.5v, FICM logic power 10.5v, IPR starts at 14.4 and will climb to 77ish, ICP starts at 0 and only climbs to 291 max. I am not getting any codes at all.

Is this the signs of a HPO leak? I disco'd the ICP (at least I think it was) back of engine driver side 2 wire plug, this is an early 04, and still no crank. Guess she will hit the shop tomorrow as I don't have autoenginuity yet and will need the money for the repairs.

Any and all responses welcome

[HAM_RADIO_MAN]

You, sir have a high pressure oil system leak. Keep Reading. FYI you don't have an STC fitting on your truck ( 2004 ) Also look for cracked branch tubes. Read all I posted and see the link at the bottom then do an air test to find the leak and fix it.

Q: What is a high pressure oil system leak.

A: On a 6.0 the fuel injectors are powered by high pressure oil in the range of 550 to 3500 psi. This oil is supplied by a high-pressure oil pump that is driven off the cam gear in the rear of the engine. The oil is transported via a network of connectors , tubes and passages that have o-rings , seals and connectors that over time will develop leaks. The main suspects are the stand pipes and dummy plugs under the valve covers inside the “ oil log” The next problem area on 05-07 trucks is what is know as an STC or Snap To Connect fitting. This fitting Blows apart randomly and your truck will be dead were it stops. This fitting is located on the output side of the HPOP and an updated solid part is available from Ford or International. High Pressure oil leaks can also occur at the injector o-rings or from cracked branch tubes but this is rare. The way to test for a high pressure oil leak is by injecting air into the ICP sensor port and listing for the leak. Some leakage at the HPOP shaft seal is normal. Normaly high pressure oil leaks will be characterized by high IPR values and below normal ICP values as well as hot start and rough hot idle problems.


Q: What is the best way to tell is my HPOP is going bad.

A: Remove the IPR valve and LOOK for Glitter on the screen. Any sign mean you need a HPOP as well as a new IPR valve.



Q: What are normal ICP and IPR values ?

A: Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
A: Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
A: Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
A: Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
A: If your engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP you might have an internal high pressure oil leak .


Q: My engine starts fine when cold but, I shut it off to run in the gas station and now it won't start hot. When it cools off a few hours it starts right up.

A: You most likely have a high Pressure oil leak at the STC fitting, Stand pipes , Dummy Plugs or injector O-rings

DTS Articles - 6.0L ICP System Leaks
Check out this link..

[JumpinJack]

Just what I didnt want to hear. Just really odd this just happened out of the blue no hard starts or anything.

[HAM_RADIO_MAN]

I know it's a long shot,but inspect the ICP sensor if its oily at all replace the sensor and the pig tail. On yours I think the ICP sensor is way in the back by the IPR. With it not starting when you disconect the ICP sensor I don't think its the senser. Also your main logice power reading looks like your batteries may have been pretty low. ( a lot of cranking ) My best guess on this is standpipes.

[JumpinJack]

I am charging the batts now to eliminate them. The ICP sensor connector was bone dry and can't see anywhere that it is leaking. I will update with info as soon as I get the batts recharged. Unless having low volts would cause me not to show higher pressure for the ICP, I pretty much think it will have to be torn into to find the culprit. Just sucks cause my garage is not big enough for me to get my truck in and close the door so I can't just tear into it here. And there is no way I will leave my garage open over night.

[JumpinJack]

I charged batts up and the only diff was for FICM logic power was at 11 instead of 10.5. However just to check my basis I checked the fuel bowl to make sure I was getting fuel and when I pulled the cap there was a high pitched hissing coming from it no air bubbles at all. Just odd cause I have never heard this the previous times I have pulled the cap.

[Ryan81]

Are you still troubleshooting it yourself or did you take it to a shop? If your not pulling any DTC's its not your ICP sensor. If your ICP was bad you would pull P2285 ICP circuit too low. Anything else leaks on the HPO system you will not pull any DTC's, you just have to pressure test the system and find the leak. I bet you its your IPR valve that went out or you have a clogged screen on it but I bet the valve is bad. Also it could be the top fuel injector o'rings where the oil rails plug into the injectors. The only o'ring kits they have with those o'rings and the snap rings are Alliant Power AP0002, the ford house kits are missing the top o'ring and snap ring because they say there not serviceable and that's bull. Also could be the stand pipes, dummy plugs in the oil rails, or the snap to connect STC fitting on the HPOP. I wouldn't guess that the branch tube would be cracked, that's a long shot.

[Ryan81]

Originally Posted by Ryan81

Are you still troubleshooting it yourself or did you take it to a shop? If your not pulling any DTC's its not your ICP sensor. If your ICP was bad you would pull P2285 ICP circuit too low. Anything else leaks on the HPO system you will not pull any DTC's, you just have to pressure test the system and find the leak. I bet you its your IPR valve that went out or you have a clogged screen on it but I bet the valve is bad. Also it could be the top fuel injector o'rings where the oil rails plug into the injectors. The only o'ring kits they have with those o'rings and the snap rings are Alliant Power AP0002, the ford house kits are missing the top o'ring and snap ring because they say there not serviceable and that's bull. Also could be the stand pipes, dummy plugs in the oil rails, or the snap to connect STC fitting on the HPOP. I wouldn't guess that the branch tube would be cracked, that's a long shot.

Hey you know you can open and close the IPR valve by finding the yellow with red striped wire on the middle PCM plug. Jump that wire to battery ground and it will operate the IPR valve. Put air on it and see if you hear a difference in pressure releasing. Or shoot you can pull the IPR valve and hold it in your hand while jumping it and you should be able to tell if its working or not. The IPR valve was bad on my truck, that's how I figured it out. Hope this helps.

[Ryan81]

Originally Posted by Ryan81

Hey you know you can open and close the IPR valve by finding the yellow with red striped wire on the middle PCM plug. Jump that wire to battery ground and it will operate the IPR valve. Put air on it and see if you hear a difference in pressure releasing. Or shoot you can pull the IPR valve and hold it in your hand while jumping it and you should be able to tell if its working or not. The IPR valve was bad on my truck, that's how I figured it out. Hope this helps.

If you end up buying a IPR valve don't pay the $242 at the ford house, found mine on Ebay brand new in the box for $75 free shipping.

[JumpinJack]

I was going to continue trouble shooting it but i cant fit the truck in the garage (las vegas garages are made for hondas, HOA complains about any maint in driveway). So I dropped it off at the shop last night and the mech is gonna look at it hopefully will know something today. I am bummed though cause I really like to figure stuff out. Will be glad when I can get the autoenginuity. Although I am pretty sure its something HPOP related cause after sitting for over 24hrs I could only build 322psi on ICP with a 77% duty cycle on IPR. Will keep you guys posted on what it ends up being.