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Old 12-11-2011, 11:02 AM
LHC LHC is offline
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LONG CRANK & COOLANT PRESSURE

05 131,000 miles, had coolant puking problems. Did oil cooler, egr cooler delete, standpipes, stc kit. This helped with coolant issue but still building 13psi after running about 30 min. with no load, over 16psi with load, so I am getting ready for arp studs and head gaskets. Now had a long crank issue first time took about 2 min. off and on cranking to start, then fine for 3 weeks, did it again, then good a couple days then yesterday, no start tried for 10 min. to batteries died, had to be towed. When I got home, charged the batteries, truck fired up. Could this be fuel pump issue? pump sounds a little speratic when ignition on. Last but not least exhaust smell in cab and noticed soot only around exhaust manifolds to block. Will gaskets typically solve this problem? and will an exhaust leak like this cause significant power loss? this site has been a life saver and thanks for all the help!!
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:27 PM
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Yes an exhaust leak will lead to power lose if it’s before the turbo. See the t-shooting guide in my signature.

Did you also do dummy plugs when you did the standpipes? When you have the heads off look over the injector o-rings very closely. Sounds like you still have a high pressure oil leak. Do you have any ICP and IPR data.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:19 PM
LHC LHC is offline
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Ham Radio Man, yes I also replaced dummy plugs. I have not done any testing yet but read through your tech files and will start testing. This will be an on going process through christmas holiday.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:29 PM
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This link is a good Read on ICP problems.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-17.php

Good Luck.. Now you Got people !!
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forddieseldoctor
For gaskets oem are the only way to go. If you use the black onyx ones there is a good chance that you will be doing them again in the not so distant future. As far as special tool you will need either a 2" long t-40 or t-45 socket to take out the injectors. A t-30 to remove the high pressure oil rails. A 10mm allen socket to remove the standpipes and if you get new standpipes and dummy plugs you will need a 12mm allen socket to install the new ones. To remove the injector harnesses from the rocker boxes you will need a 18mm 6pt socket to use to squeeze the tabs in. When disconnecting the injector connectors push in on the wire retainers instead of pulling them out and having one go flying on you. And for installing the studs you will need an 11/16 12 pt socket for the stud nuts. When you get to taking the rockers off, loosen up the head bolts that go through them and then remove the 10mm bolts that hold the rockers to the rocker boxes. If you do it the other way around you will bend or break stuff. Keep all of the valvetrain and pushrods in order. Make sure you have the crank pulley with the dowel at the 6 o'clock position before you start assembling. Then after you get both heads on and the valvetrain assembled crank the motor over by hand 3 or 4 complete crankshaft revolutions to make sure that nothing is binding. I have seen a bunch of people bending pushrods on here and I'm not sure what they're doing to cause that when they reassemble the engine.
Good info for your up comming job.
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