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Old 12-08-2011, 06:51 PM
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Problems with Underboost and Fail Safe Mode

So I have a 06 F250 cc FX4 I was towing a Nissan frontier Back in March or so and the truck started puking coolant Truck was still under warranty so i continued home. Next day i drop it off at the dealership they call back and tell me it has blown headgaskets. So they repaired it with all factory hardware (couldnt cut a deal with them on installing studs) replaced head bolts gaskets and also the latest and greatest HPOP fitting.

I have towed with it 3 times since, the first time I had 2 rhinos on a 20ft trailer not a big load at all. The truck threw a check engine light light when scanned with my scanner it gave me a under boost code, P2099 if i remember correctly. I went to the dealership the next day they checked it out but could not find any issues said maybe some soot got in the vanes of the turbo. The second time i towed with it it was a sub compact tractor on a large trailer it was a fairly large load on the truck, 45 min into the tow a wrench popped up on the dash and the truck lost power. At the time i didnt know what that lil wrench meant so i pulled over and grabbed my manual and found out it was a fail safe. I turned the truck off and immediately started it back up light was off and had full power again. I figured i was just running the truck too hard. Last time I towed it was 3 side x sides on a 20ft trailer figured i had plenty of truck for the job. I drove 3 hrs to the OHV no issues. One and a half hours into the drive home i got a check engine light 10-15 mins later i got a wrench and loss of power. I pulled over let it cool for a minute turned it off started it back up wrench was gone and back to full power I still had the check engine light though. I drove the rest of the way with no issues. I checked the code when i got home and it was another underboost code.

I havent takin it back to the dealership number one because its no longer under warranty and two because im sure they will charge me a diagnostic fee to tell me its soot again. The truck only has 90,000 miles on it and has had a fairly easy life. It sits for a month at a time due to me being gone to work. Im sure thats not great for it. I plan on doing a coolant system flush and maybe a turbo cleaning next chance i get. Anybody have any input on what else it might be? Or what I should do?
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:04 PM
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OK, so a few ISSUES HERE

Why did the head gaskets blow? Did the dealer check the ECT vs EOT delta? Did they check for a bad oil cooler and or EGR cooler?

With all the water flowing past the turbo there is a great chance it is rusted and gummed up. Your turbo needs cleaned. The dealer may not have got the turbo sealed and you my be having exhaust leaks keeping your turbo from getting up to full performance.

You have more than one issue to deal with here I am sure of it. PLEASE read the t-shooting guide in my signature and that will explain a lot of whats going on here. GOOD LUCK.

Q: How do I know if my turbo is bad.

A: A turbocharger is a very simple device basically 2 windmills on one shaft. A lot of “ bad turbo’s” on 6.0’s are simply dirty and can be restored to proper working order in about 4 hours and a little elbow grease. The exception is if the bearings are bad or if it has more than about .004 in of end play or if you can move the shaft side to side enough to cause it to rub the housing. If you can spin it by hand and it seams to move freely then there is a good chance it’s fine. Most turbo problems are bad bearings , cracks in pressurized components like hoses, boots , intercooler , or excess carbon and soot.
From time to time a VGT solenoid will fail ,but this is pretty rare. One more thing is to inspect for damaged compressor blades. The major cause fo this is aftermarket air intakes. The best thing you can do to keep your turbo happy for a long time is keep it cool and lubed and clean. This means stick with the OEM air filter unless you need to make more than 500HP.



Q: Turbo charger spools up slowly

A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.


Q: Turbo charger builds to much boost

A: vanes are coked up with rust and carbon, hot tune , stuck or faulty VGT solenoid.



Q: Low Boost levels

A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, CAC tank cracked Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.

Q: Wrench light when towing and engine looses power

A: Some newer PCM flashes monitor EOT vs ECT delta and when it exceeds 15 deg the truck will go into limp mode. Your oil cooler is obstructed and needs to be replaced. This is a good time to do a cooling system flush and an EGR delete. This can also be caused by a t-stat that is stuck open and not allowing the coolant to warm up.


Q: Do I have a blown EGR cooler?

A: Remove the EGR valve and look down the hole, some times the truck will have to be parked nose down over night. If you see any wetness, wet gooey soot, or it looks steam cleaned, your EGR cooler is bad. This is a good time to do a delete if you can, if you can't I would recommend a new cooler from bullet proof diesel.

Q: What is the delta between EOT and ECT?

A: Delta refers to the difference between the oil and coolant temperatures. This delta should not exceed 15 deg F , if it does once the truck it up to operating temperature going straight down the highway your oil cooler is plugged up.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:16 PM
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The service tech told me they checked the oil cooler and egr cooler and they tested good. How they test them I dont know. I really wanted them replaced especially after reading all the threads but they wouldnt do it no matter how good my arguments were. Wether they checked the ECT vs EOT delta i do not know. I am going to do a good insepection for exhaust leaks around the turbo i cant help but think they messed something up considering Blown head gaskets were my first issue with the truck and now im having several more and ive only put 5,000 miles on it since the head job. I was also not satisfied with their quality of work when i picked the truck up. Telling me they arent very good techs.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:43 PM
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Your need a Scangauge2 $170 or and Edge Insight, so YOU really know whats going on inside your truck. The factory gauges are useless. If your delta is over 15 deg there is a Ford TSB that says to R&R the oil cooler. IT's easy to pull the EGR valve and see if the cooler is leaking.
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:22 AM
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Ill be back home in a few days and im planning on pulling the EGR valve to do an inspection I just wanna fix it before something more serious goes wrong. I will look into getting a scan guage it looks like a useful tool to have in the truck. Until then i may have to take it to the local dealer and get them to check the ECT vs EOT delta
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:57 PM
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Sounds like what my truck did, right before the turbo started overboosting and blowing my head gaskets.

The wrench light was part of a not so great flash from the dealer.
I was getting a wrench light, with the P0299.
This was immediately after an FICM replacement, and a reflash.
First time towing it threw a wrench.
Back to the dealer, all they did was a reflash.
Truck ran great, no more lights when towing.
The service manager (long time friend of my fathers) told me certain trucks didnt like certain flash updates from Ford. He said the wrench light when towing was a common one.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:06 AM
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I finally got my truck to the dealership for them to look at. Before I took it i pulled the EGR valve and there was moisture in the intake below it. They looked at it and told me that the turbo needed to be cleaned and the EGR cooler needed to be replaced and quoted me $1700 some odd dollars. I got really hot with the service writer over the phone because of the fact that i have been taking the truck up there since July with the same symptoms and they have been telling me nothing is wrong. Now that the warranty is up they are telling me i have issues that are going to cost big money. I ended up going to the dealership and talking to the head guy in the service center and hes going to call Ford and see what they can do. He said that if Ford pays to fix it they cannot delete the EGR or replace it with a bulletproof.

So even if they do fix it i will be looking to delete it shortly after. I am thinking a sinister delete kit and a Edge Evolution programmer i know the most recommended is the Insight and SCT combo but thats going to be over $800 together and the Evolution is only $350 I wont be using the tunes as much as ill be using it to monitor my engine. Are SCT tunes still recommended even if im not looking to make power?
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