No Start after replacing LPOP - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 12-02-2011, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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No Start after replacing LPOP

Hi everyone,

I replaced the LPOP (gearrotors and front cover) and the truck was a total you-know-what to start. Once it started and got all the air out of the oil system, she ran good and smooth. Drove it about 30 miles and parked in the garage for about 6 days. Went to start her up, ran for 5 seconds and died. I discovered that the oil filter bypass valve (that's the one on top of the tower under the oil filter) was busted. I just installed the new oil tube that included that valve, filled the oil filter area with new oil, and she wouldn't start. Built ICP a few times, and she did fire a few times, but never started (batteries were always too low by that point). I had a battery charger and a chevy hooked up to the batts (brand new 1 month ago).

Needless to say, she never started even after re-filling the oil filter housing. And now, I think the starter may have run out of factory smoke.

My plan is to get back into the lpop and re-pack that bad mother full of lithium grease. Is there a better way (or at least an easier way) to get that lpop primed up? I read about someone pulling the Low Pressure Oil Switch (?) and filling that up with oil but I didn't have the right socket/extender to try that out tonight.

Also, I may have an extra 2 gallons of oil in there by now. Not sure if that has any adverse effects in this model because of the 2 part oil pan.

Any information here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for your help.

Specs:
'07 6.0L F350, new oil cooler, egr/cooler delete, new batteries, new IPR valve, fresh 5w40 Mobil Syn, new factory filter, all within last 500 miles.
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post #2 of 26 Old 12-02-2011, 05:29 AM
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Well if you were building HPO you have to have low pressure oil in my mind. Generally the bypass only breaks when there is an aftermarket filter on the truck. Do you have anything to watch your ICP with? Just wondering if you didnt get some plastic or something stuck in the IPR screen, and is the oil pressure gauge in the cluster rising while cranking?
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post #3 of 26 Old 12-03-2011, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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It built hpo up a few times because I was able to add oil to the HPOP resevoir, but as soon as it was gone, no more HPOP. Yes, there was an aftermarket filter on the truck but I broke the valve when I was trying to identify my issue before replacing the lpop (I hoped it was a stuck valve or something).

Right now I dont get a reading on the pressure gauge on the dash, and when I crank it over when the filter oil, no oil fills the filter housing. I need to figure out a way to prime the lpop without taking that all apart again.

Today I will attempt removing the eot sensor, pressure switch, and maybe the oil pressure test port (likely not because I have the fan shroud currently installed) and add oil to those areas. But first, I have to install the new starter. Can't wait.
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post #4 of 26 Old 12-04-2011, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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Removed the Oil Pressure Regulator tonight and found the remnants of a small metal pin, same as I found in the LPOP when replacing it. Reassembled and filled oil filter housing with oil, still won't start. It builds ICP and even fires a few times, but the base oil needle doesn't budge.

I'm worried that there was more of that pin in the oil pan. Tomorrow I'm going to replace the starter (again, fried another one tonight), tear into the lpop again and inspect it, replace again if necessary. Next I will drop the oil pan and inspect that for debris, and install some sort of screen on the pickup tube because if this debris is getting into the pump there should be something there for the future. Get it put together enough to start and see what happens. Hopefully I don't need any parts because I'm sick of buying **** for this truck. I'm almost $4k into it since I started having problems and the only thing it's done is take up space in the garage.

Oh yeah, and where did the pin come from? Do I need to pull the head covers off and inspect things? Maybe I oughta just buy some dynamite and get it over with.
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post #5 of 26 Old 12-04-2011, 06:23 AM
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I am interested in the oil pan removal, and where the pin came from.

Please, keep us/me informed, and good luck.

PS, I would think that you got a faulty starter if it died this fast, I mean these things last for years and years of cranking and cranking if they dont start, they need to deal with the non mechanically inclined people that if the engine does not start, they just need to keep cranking on it until it does...But then again, I could be totally wrong.



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4" MRBP Turbo Back, No Muff, S&B Intake, Sinister EGR Delete, SCTX3, Edge Insight CTS, Blue Spring, Zoodad, Optima Yellow Tops, DIY Coolant Filter,ARPs, B&W Turnover Ball (W/ Companion Hitch), Ding Ding Mod, 2 1/2" Leveling Kit, 17" Wheels, BPD Fuel Filter Cover, AFE Rear Diff Cover, BPD Oil cooler & 58 Volt FICM, S&B Intake horn and coldside CAC tube
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post #6 of 26 Old 12-04-2011, 06:53 AM
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the pin is a needle bearing out of a lifter

-Matt

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post #7 of 26 Old 12-04-2011, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinner6.0L View Post
the pin is a needle bearing out of a lifter
I agree.


The OP complains of putting $4K is about to put A LOT more than that, if roller lifter(s) have grenaded on this engine. If you could post up a picture of the pin (as well as any other foreign loose debris that happens to be floating around), perhaps one of us could identify it.

Right about now, the next step should be to drain the oil and remove the oil pan before proceeding any further.

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post #8 of 26 Old 12-04-2011, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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I just watched the video of Bill Hewitt pretty much telling my life story. Help, I broke my lifter retainer I think? The pins in the video are the pins I've found in the engine, which are the roller lifter pins. I'm really super excited to tear my engine apart (That was a joke). This truck isn't my daily driver and I can probably live without it until my summer business kicks back into high gear, in May.

How do you tell which lifter(s) are bad?

So when you replace a roller lifter, do you replace all roller lifters? Are there 16 of them? What if it's one of the ones that are easier to get to, is it still worth the extra work to replace all 16, even if the camshafts are ok?

Thanks for all the help, everyone. I appreciate it.

~Joe
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post #9 of 26 Old 12-04-2011, 11:40 AM
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your going to need to replace all 16 lifters and the camshaft. it requires pretty much an entire disassembly of the shortblock


I guarantee you lost atleast a little bit of that cam lobe

can I ask how many miles(or hours) on the engine?

-Matt

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post #10 of 26 Old 12-04-2011, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Engine has 80k miles on it. I bought it from a dealership last October with 73k. It has 99,999 hours on it when I bought it. I figured it to be a utility company vehicle from WA but can't be sure. Came with a 3mon,3k mi warranty.

If someone found a roller pin during an oil change, theoretically could the vehicle run for 7k miles before actually showing any issues? Sounds unlikely to me, but I thought 73k is an odd time for a trade in. I wonder what spurred it.

Does anyone know where I can get a used camshaft? Maybe one of you guys who upgraded?
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