Starting problem again!!!

[6.0powerstrokeboosting]

hello my fellow powerstrokers,
So a couple of months ago my truck wouldnt start. NYCF350 was very helpful with helping me diagnose this problem. He came to the conclusion to replace the SCT fittings with a straight fitting from ford. So i ordered the part. 14 hours later, the part was installed and truck put back together. Ran and started like a champ. yesterday morning i got home from loading hay, unloaded the hay. hopped in the truck and it wont start again.... sounds like its not getting fuel. So im going to be checking the fuel system this weekend but would like some input from anyone who would like to put there .02 cents in.

Again just a recap. truck ran great yesterday got home, tried to start it again and nothing. all it does is crank. if anyone needs more information just let me know. Thanks all

[a2elvis]

Does the truck start cold? If it doesnt start hot then its most likely the dummy plugs or standpipes.

[6.0powerstrokeboosting]

Originally Posted by a2elvis

Does the truck start cold? If it doesnt start hot then its most likely the dummy plugs or standpipes.

ill be checking that momentarily, i had to let the battery charge due to draining the battery from doing some tests on it. ill have an answer to that in about a couple of hours

[6.0powerstrokeboosting]

So it will start up just perfectly after i let it sit over night with battery charging. drove it all day today with no problems. Anyone have any idea what could cuase this? it seems to be a hit and miss and only after the truck runs for an extended peroid of time.

[fixxxer-upper]

Did you inspect the ICP/IPR sensors when the STC fitting was replaced? Both of these will cause a no start condition. I had a failed ICP coupled with a clogged IPR screen.

All of my issues were diagnosed using a ScanGaugeII. If you plan on keeping the truck, purchase a device that will allow you to keep an eye on everything. It will save you time and money.

[dazdillenger]

You need to check the ICP both when cold, and when hot. If you have less than 500psi hot, it won't start, and that points to a high pressure oil leak. Also, a high IPR duty cycle indicates an oil leak as well. If it starts cold, but not hot, you should look into standpipes and dummy plugs. They tend to leak. There is an updated design that incorporates a teflon backup o-ring into the design that helps prevent leaks, so make sure the ones you replace them with are updated. They don't sell the o-rings seperately, so look to replace all of them. Roughly 112 bucks from tousley ford. Good luck!

[justa03]

Sounds like what daz above said and either the dummy plugs or the standpipes. Like he said if your in there you might as well do them all for the piece of mind and so you dont have to tear back into it. Not sure if you have the tool to air test the HPO system but it wouldnt be a bad idea to test it and make one for yourself. Guessing your truck is an 05-07 by the looks of it? Not many HPOP issues with them but it has happened and ive seen them where they start to get weak and will cause a no start hot but will start cold.

[dee004]

Don't mean to high jack but I looked up standpipes and dummy plugs at Tousley but couldn't find either on search. Is that their proper names, does anybody have part numbers?
Thanks

[michaelaiman]

Alright, here is the ghetto way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.


Key on engine off the voltage reading at that sensor should be between 0.17 volts-0.35 volts. That voltage reading indicates little to no pressure. Run the oasis and see whats exactly been replaced. If the fittings have been replace even once, I would rule that out. You either have a leak in one of the manifolds,dummy plugs,etc or the ipr valve is suspect. I would also pull the IPR valve and inspect the screen, make sure its not deformed.

[fixxxer-upper]

Originally Posted by michaelaiman

Alright, here is the ghetto way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.


Key on engine off the voltage reading at that sensor should be between 0.17 volts-0.35 volts. That voltage reading indicates little to no pressure. Run the oasis and see whats exactly been replaced. If the fittings have been replace even once, I would rule that out. You either have a leak in one of the manifolds,dummy plugs,etc or the ipr valve is suspect. I would also pull the IPR valve and inspect the screen, make sure its not deformed.

If the ICP is located under the turbo, as mine is, that process is easier said than done. I was able to get some decent readings on those wires a little further up on the harness. As you said, it is the low cost way to test the ICP sensor.