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Old 11-26-2011, 09:50 PM
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Question No boost after EGR delete install

'05 F250 6.0 78,000 miles 6 speed manual.

Recently installed an EGR delete kit consisting of an up-pipe block off and a coolant by-pass.

Symptoms prior to install: White smoke, loss of power, and coolant consumption. Stopped driving the truck to prevent further damage. Prior to that, no engine/turbo issues.

Had removed turbo, intake, & other accessories. No damage to head gaskets/heads. Cleaned intake and EGR valve, did nothing to turbo. Reinstalled everything to proper specs. EGR valve in place and connected to wiring harness.

Symptoms after install: Starts, idles, and drives normally aside from two things. No boost; lack of power especially above 2000 rpm. I have performed the re-learn process twice; with the engine at normal operating temperature. Only once did the turbo respond during test drive with a surge to 5 pounds while ascending a grade at 2200 rpm, third gear, struggling to maintain 40 mph. After which the gauge has remained at zero. While driving it sounds as if I'm hearing the turbo, but it definatly isn't making any boost. There is no smoke, no fumes under hood/in cab, and no apparent vacuum leaks, no turbo sound at idle. (Was present before work performed.) New intercooler boots have also been installed and properly torqued. Also took notice that the down pipe (turbo to intercooler) barely warm to the touch after driving.

I have spent much time reviewing these forums and have yet to find a solution. Has anyone experienced a similar issue to this and if so, how was it resolved??? It's driving me friggin crazy!!!


Last edited by Draconwolff; 11-26-2011 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draconwolff View Post
'05 F250 6.0 78,000 miles 6 speed manual.

Recently installed an EGR delete kit consisting of an up-pipe block off and a coolant by-pass.

Symptoms prior to install: White smoke, loss of power, and coolant consumption. Stopped driving the truck to prevent further damage. Prior to that, no engine/turbo issues.
Do you think that just doing an egr cooler delete will fix this?
Did you address the plugged up oil cooler that is the underlying cause of the egr cooler failure? If not, your oil cooler will be the next thing to explode and that will fill the cooling system with oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Draconwolff View Post
Had removed turbo, intake, & other accessories. No damage to head gaskets/heads. Cleaned intake and EGR valve, did nothing to turbo. Reinstalled everything to proper specs. EGR valve in place and connected to wiring harness.
The failed egr cooler sent coolant through your turbo. Mix heat, soot and coolant in the same side of the turbo that houses the vanes that control boost will give you the symptoms you describe.
You need to take the turbo back off, split it and clean it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Draconwolff View Post
Symptoms after install: Starts, idles, and drives normally aside from two things. No boost; lack of power especially above 2000 rpm. I have performed the re-learn process twice; with the engine at normal operating temperature. Only once did the turbo respond during test drive with a surge to 5 pounds while ascending a grade at 2200 rpm, third gear, struggling to maintain 40 mph. After which the gauge has remained at zero. While driving it sounds as if I'm hearing the turbo, but it definatly isn't making any boost.
Along with cleaning the turbo, there are a few other easy things to clean/check.
One of them is the rubber hose that comes off the top of the intake and goes toward the passenger side of the truck. Take the hose off the intake and the MAP sensor. Carefully check that hose for pinholes, nicks and tears. Blow it out with compressed air. Using an allen wrench close to the same diameter of the brass nipple on the intake that the hose connects to, poke the hole to make sure the cleaning done didn't plug the hole.
On the drivers side, connected at the same spot as the front FICM bracket at the valve cover, you will see a sensor sitting on top of a stainless steel tube. Use two wrenches and remove the sensor. Clean the bottom of the sensor with carb cleaner. Shoot brake cleaner down into the tube just to be sure the tube is not clogged. That tube just goes to the exhaust manifold, squirting cleaner down there won't hurt anything.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:21 AM
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Thanks for the info!!! Is there a way that I can have my oil cooler tested once I get it pulled?? I had a feeling I should have cleaned that damn turbo when I had it off, but people told me... Oh well... Live and LEARN!!!
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:55 AM
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Are you sure you got the VGT solenoid plugged back in all the way?
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:10 PM
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The only way to "test" an oil cooler is to have the proper gauges to read engine oil temp and engine coolant temp. By comparing the two under a determine set of circumstances, you will be able to tell if it is plugged or not.
The conditions to test it:
Drive your unloaded truck until it is up to standard operating cooling temp (190F give or take a few degrees).
Find a long, flat section of highway, set the cruise control for 65MPH
After a few minutes (when the oil temp stabilizes) check the coolant temp and the oil temp.
Should the oil be 15F (or more) higher than your coolant temp, the oil cooler is plugged and should be replaced.
The easiest way to add the gauges is buying the electronic gauges. The Edge CS, or CTS are the most popular. You can also get the Scangauge2 (cheaper) which is sold at most auto parts stores.
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhanna6powerstroke View Post
Are you sure you got the VGT solenoid plugged back in all the way?
Sure did. I checked and re-checked the harnesses when things first didn't work out, hoping I had over looked something. No such luck! Update... I found one I missed... That sensor atop that stainless tube on the drivers side. Yeap... Wasn't plugged in. A n00b mistake. But considering I have never turned a wrench on a diesel engine, I suppose that's not too bad. Gonna check out the MAP later today. Thanks to all who've helped me thru this!!


Last edited by Draconwolff; 11-29-2011 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:36 PM
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Thanks to all who helped me get my Super Duty back up and running! After cleaning the turbo, connecting a sensor I had missed, and getting the MAP sensor cleaned & connected properly; all seems to be operational! The only issue now is smoke (I think blueish-white, but its kind of hard to tell at night) on accelleration, but I suspect that may go away after the VGR re-learn.

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Old 11-10-2012, 02:44 PM
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egr delete, no boost, no power, turbo

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