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Need help. Motor is locked up, I'm at my wit's end!*very LONG*

3K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  dazdillenger 
#1 · (Edited)
So here's the scoop, and this will probably be long...as I want to try to be as informative as I can so you guys can try to help me as best as you guys can. PLEASE bear with all the information, skim through it if you'd like for the good parts. I'll underline the parts that I feel are important.. I really need some help here


My uncle's truck is a 2005 6.0 4x4. It has about 120k on it. as far as I could tell from today, these are all the mods:
-It's lifted 6 inches and turning 37x13.5-20s.
-It has a tuner on it(although I'm not exactly sure what kind)
-Has a K&N intake system, and it appears the intake neck and everything else has been replaced as well...as it all looks very different than my own 6.0 does. It looks like it's all chrome.
-has an exhaust system
-egr delete[?](as we learned from our adventures today, i think...although im not sure what i'm looking if it's just a blockoff or what.)
-some sort of fuel pressure regulator(when he cycles the key..the pressure gauge will climb up to about 55 PSI)
-aftermarket gauges for EGT, EOT, ECT


A few days ago he filled up with diesel from a place that is not the usual place.
Today, he went from home to another part of the metroplex, only about a 20 mile drive. On the way, he stopped at a store, and when he came back out...he started the truck up and it was a very rough start. Said it sounded like a lot of knocking/metal on metal for a few seconds, then smoothed out a little. At that point, it started bellowing out white smoke.
All the way home, til he parked it, it continued to bellow out white smoke in very large amounts. He stopped along the way, shut the truck down, and started it back up to no avail. From what he recalls, his gauges never moved a bit. the truck lost a ton of power, but the fuel mileage didn't seem to change a bit when he reset it(still about 15.5)

When I got around to the truck to look at it.... We checked out everything that we could. drained the fuel filters, and very little water came out. We went ahead and replaced the fuel filters, as the filters looked like they might have had some sort of rusty residue in them.

We checked the FICM. It was reading a full 48 volts all the way across until we tried to crank the motor over, which was then when we learned that the motor was compression locked. We cranked up the rear of the truck and went to pull the egr valve and learned that there was a blockoff plate in its place. So...no egr valve. Pulled the plate and let it sit but never saw any coolant inside the port. I'm not sure if the EGR cooler has been upgraded or just the valve got blocked off. I'm not sure how to tell.

The coolant was perfectly clean, and smelled just like it should. The oil looked great, and was at its proper level. not over or under.

I proceeded to remove the glow plugs in order to try to spin the motor over and clear the fluid in the cylinders, and after getting only the driver's side ones out, I stopped...as each consecutive one had been covered in oil as I pulled them out, coated up to about an inch from the tip. the cylinders appear to be full of OIL

I have stopped at that point for the night, BUT I really can't figure out what is causing this. Our original first thought was "water in the fuel" given the original circumstances. My first thought now is possibly a turbo seal. All of the intake tubing that I looked at had a thin film of oil inside of it...but It wasn't enough for me to think that the seal had blown badly enough to FILL the cylinders with oil. The bottom of the inside of the turbo housing cold-side had a little bit of oil in it..but not much.

ANY help is very very very much appreciated, as this truck is stranded in the driveway and my uncle's pocket book is not in good enough shape right now to just take it to a mechanic and let them try to figure it out.
 
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#2 ·
just wanted to add that this truck was not throwing a CEL or anything unusual in the cluster. Have not been able to pull codes, as I dont have a scan tool. Going to attempt to pull codes with a friend's diablosport trinity thingamajig tomorrow. please folks, if you have any ideas on what we are dealing with, let me know! I would greatly appreciate it!!
 
#4 ·
Not sure what would cause the cylinders to fill with oil, but I will say that the film of oil in the intake tubing and the turbo is normal. The CCV (crank case ventilation) discharges into the intake on the inlet side of the turbo. Hopefully you get you problem figured out cheaply. :/



2006 F250 Lariat FX4:
MBRP 4" Turbo Back Exhaust
Blue FPR Spring
Edge Insight CTS
1200rpm High Idle Mod
Dieselsite Coolant Filter
58v Swamps FICM
SCT w/ Matt's SRL Tune
 
#5 ·
The glowplugs may only be covered in oil from removing them through the valvecovers. It wouldn't be uncommon for a slight amount of oil to get on the glowplug as it's being removed. pull the rest of them and then try and spin the engine by hand watching to see if anything or what comes out of the cylinders

You could have gotten gasoline by mistake. The truck will still run but not very well. You'll be able to smell it in the fuel
 
#6 ·
You could have gotten gasoline by mistake. The truck will still run but not very well. You'll be able to smell it in the fuel
An even quicker "test". Take a sample of the fuel from the secondary fuel filter housing and pour it on the ground. Attempt to light it on fire with a match or lighter. THAT will tell you if it's been gassed up or not.
 
#7 ·
no sir, seems we're not looking at gasoline here. Pretty sure we're looking at some low quality fuel with water in it. :(
 
#9 ·
Pull all the glowplugs, that will allow u to turn it by hand, which will help to answer the mechanical problem. Could have blown a tip off an injector, which happens more than u think. That solves the rough mechanical sound he heard when he started it, and the white smoke, and why it wont start, cause its full of fuel.


One of my friends has a durmax and put a edge evolution programer on it, he got drunk and put the programmer on engine kill mode, which blew tips off the injectors. So thats how i know this.
 
#12 ·
Its setting number 5 on his programer and hold it to the floor until something self destructs.

Find what cylinder is full of fuel and pull the injector. Probably messed up.
 
#13 ·
Why the FUCCCCK would you want an engine KILL mode......Ignorant!
 
#14 ·
He didnt the blood in his alcohol system did. He's one of those people that think duramax's are 100% bulletproof from the factory.
 
#15 ·
Much thanks go out to YT90SC over at thedieselstop for his affirmative, "i'm positive" answer. Of all the forums I had posted on, the reply given from him seemed to sound like it was the most certain one...so I went with it and picked up an injector this morning. Please none of you guys take offense to how that may have sounded, because I do greatly appreciate all of your thoughts and opinions. I just saw a no-contest answer and went with it!
I began tearing into the motor and once I got to the injector, and got 'er out of there...lo and behold...no copper gasket came out on the injector. looked inside the injector bore...and there were three little copper-gasket chunks sitting in there. unfortunately I had no idea where the rest of it went. We figured it must have went into the combustion chamber.

went ahead and cleaned up the injector bore, stuffed a new injector in there, put it all back together and torqued everything to spec.
we went ahead and changed the oil and fuel...and went ahead and started it. took exactly 12 seconds from when we started cranking until she fired, and settled into a smooth idle. It still smoked like a train, but after about 30 minutes of idling and putting it under small loads with driving...the smoke dissipated.
truck runs fantastic, and I have learned a TON about the process of changing out the injectors, and that old man is happier than ever. I feel like a superhero!


if anybody has any questions about changing injectors, please feel free to ask. I'll be happy to help.

Tips I learned along the way:
*a long-shank t40 torx bit is VERY difficult to find around here where I live. What I did instead was buy a drill-bit set with a long t40 torx bit, and use a 1/4 inch drive socket on the end of it. worked great on removal of the injector and on re-installation. Just don't drop it inside the head, as the head is very crammed and it will be a tight situation to retrieve it if it really gets in there. don't worry...it won't make its way into the crank, though.
**when removing the glow plug socket-cups off of the glow plugs...I originally started by using needle-nose pliers to try to pull them out. While this works, it is very difficult to do without tearing something up. Instead, i tried using a piece of thick wire(leftover strands from electrical socket wiring for the house) to wrap around the little "ledge" above the main body of the socket-cup. after wrapping it tight and twisting it a little....just grab it with some channel locks and pull straight out. Comes out incredibly easily.
***When pulling the degas bottle out, I simply grabbed a few ziploc bags and set them in the battery tray. I pulled the front vent hose and just drained it from there into the ziploc bags. It took about 2 bags to catch it all...but it minimized the mess considerably. after you disconnect the large hose from the bottom...just catch the rest in the bag(about another 2 cups worth) and then set the hose aside out of the way.
****MAKE SURE TO KEEP TRACK OF WHICH BOLTS/STUDS GO IN WHICH PLACES ON THE VALVE COVER. if you don't, it will become a massive guessing-game trying to figure out which ones go back in which places. TRUST ME!!!

I may come up with more...but in the meantime...it's been fun! and I greatly appreciate ALL of you guys' help and concern with helping us solve this situation to put my uncle back on the road!
 
#17 ·
****MAKE SURE TO KEEP TRACK OF WHICH BOLTS/STUDS GO IN WHICH PLACES ON THE VALVE COVER. if you don't, it will become a massive guessing-game trying to figure out which ones go back in which places. TRUST ME!!!

hahaha! you mean you couldn't remember where they go!? that's okay after enough of them you can picture 6.0 valve cover stud orientation without even being near one
 
#16 ·
I had a copper washer fall off an injector during an install-it lodged sideways rather than on the tip-truck ran fine UNTIL the combustion gases melted the o-rings, then it smoked like a freight train and knocked until I shut her down. Sucks, but sure is an easy fix compared to some of the other possibilities! Good luck!
 
#20 ·
And here I thought I was the only "piler"

LOL

The only parts I mark are lifters, pushrods, rockers, and other critical parts. Fasteners are easy-generally speaking what you can't remember can be figured out using logic.
 
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