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No power top speed 50mph

13K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  justinmix 
#1 ·
Hi everyone. Im sure this has been answered dozens of times. Its Sunday and Im stressed.
New to diesel world. Very knowledgable with gas jeeps.
Unsure of a lot of the abreviations so spell it out for me please.
2004 6.0L stock configuration, 140,000miles

No power top end, won't go over 50 empty or with a minimal towing load. Lots of Black smoke. Trouble with hot restarts and 4.5 miles per gallon. No CEL codes. I have a scanner but it finds nothing. Why won't it throw codes its ovbiously broken?

Whats the difference between Check engine light and wrench light. I thought wrench light was a joke laughed like crazy. Now im not sure.

Pulled EGR valve, mild fouling, cleaned and reinstalled. Slightly goey but have no reference for OK vs bad oil cooler/EGR cooler.
Pulled Map sensor, broke off nipple, cleaned hose(seemed clear) bought new sensor and replaced, no change. Going to check all CAC? boots. Im guessing those are the rubber collars on the aluminum pipes?
Can I test the VGT valve? Any ideas or point me to links to learn abbreviations and diagnostics.
 
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#2 ·
Usually problems with hot restarts are High Pressure oil system concerns, either leaking or a high pressure oil pump. My 03 actually had the same issue and it was the HPOP(high pressure oil pump). Not sure what you have access to but if you can get a scanner that will read PID's I would watch the PID ICP(injector control pressure) to make sure you are getting above 500 psi. The 6.0 needs a minimum of 500 psi to start, and once hot the oil thins out and either the pump is too weak to make this pressure or there is a leak in the system. You may could have a fuel system issue too. Check your fuel pressure off the port on the upper fuel filter housing. You should see around 55 psi on a F-series.
 
#3 ·
So I had to take it to a ford diesel mechanic. After a bit of extensive scanning and manual tests it was in fact a high pressure oil leak.
So now I need a new pump. OUCH those arent cheap.
It has been suggested here that I should get the upgrade EGR cooler and oil cooler rebuilt. I am still not quite sure what parts are going to be removed to replace the pump. I don't want an EGR Delete. I cannot afford a tuner to turn off the CEL and it would drive me insane to ignore it.
Question-is the EGR/Oil cooler part of the disassembly process to get to the HPOP?
If the labor is the same it may be worth the financial hit to fix it now.
 
#4 ·
Depending on what EGR cooler you have you shouldnt need to replace it. The early 04 coolers, the round looking ones have a very low failure rate. If you have a cast iron pump cover which im guessing you do by the means its an 04 you have to remove the intake. You dont have to remove the oil cooler but if it was me doing it, it would be less labor since the intake is off. Where if you just do the pump and then later on you need to replace the oil cooler youll be paying to have the intake taken off again. Kinda hard to say though....
 
#5 ·
yes!!! replace your oil cooler while your in there... i did an egr delete and thought my oil cooler was fine then 4 months later my oil cooler went and i had to do it all over again so instead of 13 hours of time for thw same thing it took me 26 hours cause i had to do it twice and it aint fun to do...
 
#6 ·
If you are going to have the intake manifold off...
A. Clean the crap out of the manifold
B. Change that oil cooler! It would be a horrible, horrible mistake not to. Removing the intake is 90% of the hastle in this inevitable task.
 
#7 ·
Pre 06 trucks will not throw a CEL with an EGR delete, so I would just do the EGR delete. Hard to say on the oil cooler. I would try and monitor EOT temps while you still have it running and see how well the cooler is still working and if it's showing signs of plugging.
 
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