fuel injector wiring harness - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:21 PM
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Question fuel injector wiring harness

04 excursion 6.0
Was told douglas county diesel in castle rock colorado <--- F*#k them by the way, that my ficm needed to be replaced $1054.00 ... instead sent the ficm to circuitboardmedics.com awesome company btw, but my ficm is and was performing perfectly and was even refurbished for ****s and giggles and then tested on one of their test vehicles, which leads me to this question i purchased an injector wiring harness $204.00 on ebay and before i start, can anyone who knows about or has performed this repair give me any helpful advice (specialty tools?) or pictures, walk through, precautions any and all would help greatly thank you
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:16 AM
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Replacing the injector harness is not all that difficult. The thing to be careful of is the clips on top of the injectors. Remove them carefully and don't drop them. Pay attention to how the harness is routed.
As far as tools, not much really. Metric socket set (1/4 inch), ratchet, an extension or two, pliers and a screwdriver.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:32 PM
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thanks for the advice it was a great success! but if i could ask you one more question if you dont mind while i had the intake off all the way to the turbo there was some traces of oil and a little drip coming out ....how concerned should i be and what should i do about that....nothing major but cant be good either way
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:00 PM
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sorry i lied one more question... when driving around after the installation today it ran great no more codes seems to be running spot on except it does blow a little black smoke when it didnt before the failure really at all this is when i step on it .but there also was at a time greyish colored smoke a decent plume/cloud when i got pretty hard on it wondering how exactly to start addressing this issue (i assume due to the carbon build up from not functioning correctly the injectors could be a little sticky and need a fuel treatment but i cant explain the greyish white smoke ....and im cleaning out the egr valve tomorrow since my degas bottle drips a little hopefully that is the issue not a HG
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
Replacing the injector harness is not all that difficult. The thing to be careful of is the clips on top of the injectors. Remove them carefully and don't drop them.
Those spring clips just push in and the plug comes off of the injector wiring...
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bnick42 View Post
thanks for the advice it was a great success! but if i could ask you one more question if you dont mind while i had the intake off all the way to the turbo there was some traces of oil and a little drip coming out ....how concerned should i be and what should i do about that....nothing major but cant be good either way
Where was the oil? Inside the intake tube just prior to the turbo is where the Crackcase vent is. This will create an oil mist throughout the air intake stream. Many have rerouted this vent. Some that have done the rerouting attach a hose to it and drop it straight to the ground, others reroute it to a catchcan to catch the oil vapors and then route it back to the intake tube. NCHornet (a member on this forum) designed and sells a kit for this purpose through Stealth Automotive. I recommend that kit to get rid of that oil.
That oil, by the way, will attack the bonds within the silicone "boost boots," resulting in the bright blue boot changing color. As time goes on the oil eats away at the silicone, making it porous. The boost pressure pushes the oil through the boot, and the road grime stick to it, changing the color to a brownish. If your boost boots are that color, it is recommended that you change them before they fail.

For the smoking, start with an EGR valve cleaning. BUT, before removing the EGR valve for cleaning, park it on a decent hill, nose down.
Once your done cleaning the egr valve, do not install it back into the truck quite yet. Let the truck sit like that over night. In the morning, before dropping the egr valve back into place, check the bottom of the hole in the intake for the egr valve for the presence of moisture. It should be bone dry, if it is not, you have a leaking egr cooler. Keep in mind that the failed egr cooler is a symptom of another issue. That is a plugged oil cooler. A failed egr cooler requires replacement of both components. The coolant supply to the egr cooler was slowed/compromised by the plugged up coolant passages in the oil cooler, and that is what caused the egr to leak. If you just replace the egr cooler, without replacing the oil cooler, you will be replacing your new egr cooler again real soon, and you are also putting your oil cooler at risk for exploding internally. Should that happen, it would dump oil into your cooling system. Not fun, nor cheap, to repair anymore since now you would have to replace all the rubber components in the cooling system and perform a cooling system flush (after repair) that could very well result in plugging up your brand new oil cooler.
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:37 AM
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yes right where the crankcase vent is and looked like it was sucking it in but the tube is still very blue and no cracking (at 79k) but i will have to look into that

my driveway will work perfect for that over night test, but damn i hope its bone dry but ill remember that they go hand in hand and replace them as such but thank you very much, you sir are a plethora of useful information thank you
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:18 PM
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yes right where the crankcase vent is and looked like it was sucking it in but the tube is still very blue and no cracking (at 79k) but i will have to look into that

my driveway will work perfect for that over night test, but damn i hope its bone dry but ill remember that they go hand in hand and replace them as such but thank you very much, you sir are a plethora of useful information thank you
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