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I HATE THIS TRUCK!

7K views 31 replies 12 participants last post by  pl77 
#1 ·
What do I do with a powerstroke that dies at idle only after it gets warmed up. No codes. Doesn't die everytime, about 5 times a day. All we have in Indianapolis is computer techs that if it doesn't show up when they plug in, they tell me to take it home till it dies for good. Is there any mechanics left? When it dies, it starts right up. I've had ficm upgraded,ipr,icm changed, What causes this? Three dealers have told me they can't fix what they can't find, it has died at least once on all of them.
 
#2 ·
my truck was kinda doin the same thing, but mine would have to wait till it cooled down to start again. mine ended up being a bad injector o-ring on the top of the injector where the oil rail plugs into the injector. also i have heard that a bad o-ring on the dummy plugs or bad o-ring on the standpipes. hope it helps
 
#4 ·
06 6.0 napa gold filters{oil and fuel}
it only dies when hot so it seems like a sensor to me.
I have tugged on wires and wiggled connectors while it
was running and it wont die. After a 20 min drive down
the interstate, pulling up the exit ramp is when it usually
dies. when I asked the guy at NAPA about motorcraft filters
I thought he was going to have a meltdown. He explains that
it is a bypass filter,??? and that ford does not make their filters.

Would a cam sensor cause this type of condition?
 
#5 ·
First, YES, it does make a BIG difference what filters you use on your truck. FORD owns patents on devices that are in the filter housings that MUST be engaged properly for the filter to work as designed...period. NO, those NAPA filters do not engage them properly.
For instance, in the bottom of the oil filter housing, there is a poppet valve. Its purpose is to drain the oil filter housing when you crack open the filter cover. It makes oil changes so much less messier than if it was not there. However, this makes the height of the filter absolutely critical. It must also fit perfectly to engage that poppet valve. The patent on these design features make it a REQUIREMENT that you use Motorcraft filters, and ONLY Motorcraft filters (unless you can find a filter made by Raycor, since they manufacture the filter for Motorcraft). Using any other filter will not engage that valve properly, and what happens is that this valve can stay open. This will effectively open a 1/4inch hole in the oil filter housing that is draining straight to your oil pan. Try clicking HERE to get the proper filters. You can get either the Motorcraft or the Raycor filters through them at discounted prices.
The fuel filter has other devices on it that must fit the filter as well, and is also patented by FORD, and again, no other filter will work properly.
Oh, before I forget to mention this, you might have to purchase a FORD oil filter cap if those NAPA filters come with their own cap. The NAPA cap will not work with the Motorcraft filters.

That guy at NAPA might have been talking about the fact that under maximum oil flow (a whopping 18.5 gallons per minute by the way), the stock filter will only be filtering about 8.5 gallons per minute, leaving 10 gallons per minute unfiltered. The only way to improve on the filtering of the oil is the separate purchase of a bypass oil filtration system OR by deleting the stock oil cooler and installing the bulletproof diesel oil cooling system. The oil cooling system replaces the stock oil filter with an external oil filter head (and externally mounted oil cooler) and will filter the oil at very close to max flow. ($2300 give or take a few bucks for the system)
The NAPA filter will not filter any more flow than the stock oil filter since the flow is set by the bypass valve in the filter housing.

To the best of my knowledge, a cam sensor won't do this. You will get a cam or a crank sensor code by cranking the engine over for extended periods of time, and that is normal.

My suggestion is to replace your oil filter (at a minimum, preferably your fuel filters as well) with Motorcraft filters. Believe it or not, this problem could be as simple as that.

Your 06 also has the STC fitting, which is WELL known to fail. The fitting is what connects your High Pressure Oil Pump to the rest of the high pressure oil system. STC = Snap-to-connect.
This style fitting is much the same as the fittings you would find on an air line in your garage. The internal parts wear out over time, and that would cause a leak of high pressure oil. You will not see any external signs of a high pressure oil system leak, it is all internal.
The signs of the fitting failing are pretty much what you are describing, but not exactly. Usually as the fitting fails you will have great difficulty restarting the truck when the oil is hot, since hot oil will flow much more freely than cold and the leak would be more prominent.
The failing fitting can cause the engine to just cut right off.
That is why I think it could be a combination of the two. Your STC fitting is probably failing (or other high pressure oil component) and the wrong oil filter.

If you have already had your STC fitting replaced, the other two high pressure oil system components that would cause strange things are the dummy plugs and the stand pipes.
A quick-and-dirty explanation of the high pressure oil system:
Oil flows through the oil cooler
As the oil exits the oil cooler, some of this oil is diverted to a reservoir under the oil cooler.
This reservoir feeds oil to the HPOP. The HPOP pressurizes the oil
The IPR (injection pressure regulator) is screwed into the HPOP and is controlled by the PCM. It is designed to regulate the oil pressure sent into the system by opening/closing, bleeding off pressure to the oil pan.
The oil will then flow through the STC fitting and enter the branch tubes.
The branch tubes split the oil flow into two directions, one line for each side of the engine. The branch tubes pass the oil to the standpipes.
The standpipes deliver the oil to the oil rails. These standpipes have o-rings on them that can fail over time.
Both oil rails are of a common design. To accomplish this there are holes machined into the rails that are used on one side of the engine, and not on the other side. A dummy plug is screwed into those holes. These dummy plugs also have a seal on them that can weaken and leak over time.
Both the standpipes and the dummyplugs have been improved many times over since your engine was manufactured and there is also an STC fitting replacement kit that replaces that style fitting to a straight fitting (which it should have been from the factory).
To replace the standpipes and dummy plugs would require removing the valve covers.
The STC fitting requires the removal of the HPOP.
 
#8 ·
First of all, thanks for taking the time to explain all of that. I wish the dealerships would tell us this when we ask them to fix our truck. I will definitely switch to motorcraft filters next time.
Second, if the STC was leaking would it let me start the truck right after it dies? And wouldn't it do it all the time, some days, it doesn't die at all. The truck only has 90,000 miles on it, do these parts usually go at this many miles?
Again, thanks for the help(don't really hate truck, just the stalling...)
 
#23 ·
Yes he did. The information he brings is mind-boggling.
 
#9 ·
To answer your question, the wrong oil filter and just the slightest high pressure oil system leak (or ANY internal oil leak) could cause your symptoms. Just having the wrong oil filter in your truck can cause this.
Not so long ago on this forum there was a new member that was having all types of starting issues with his truck and completely blew off that an oil filter could be the root cause of his issue, until he changed it to the Motorcraft filter. Even after the fact, it still took him a few days of running the truck after replacing it to believe it.
It can, and DOES happen.

Start there and do not wait for your "next oil change"
That is the CHEAPEST solution on the table. Come back and let us know the result.

By the way, since you do not have the Motorcraft filter, you likely do not have the correct oil filter housing cap. When you go to the Ford Dealership to buy the oil filter, get a new cap. You will need it. Once you get the right cap, you can get the filters cheaper online. Check out THIS WEBSITE. Remember that RAYCOR manufactures Motorcraft filters and they are the EXACT same filter.
 
#12 ·
So far, the only result is that I'm down 50 bucks on the filter/cap deal and it is still stalling. I have noticed that when its cold, it takes forever fo it to start. Plus while cranking, it actually slowed down then started, blew out a lot of white smoke that smelled bad of fuel. ?????
 
#13 ·
The "taking forever to start" points to an oil delivery issue at start-up. The incorrect oil filter will add to that issue. The new filter and cap will treat your engine better and is worth that small expense to ensure the health of your injectors in the future. It does help narrow down the problem and, like I said before, it was the cheapest/easiest option.
Now, there are a few things that this could be. Without some type of scanner, it will be difficult at best to say exactly what it is. You would need to monitor the IPR duty cycle and the ICP pressure to determine if this is, in fact, a high pressure oil leak.
Is this truck parked on a hill at night, nose up when the cold start issue occurs?

My first "kneejerk" response is the STC fitting, which I described earlier. The kit sold through FORD removes this style fitting replaces it with a solid fitting. It is not terribly difficult to install if you have some mechanical ability, the necessary tools and the time to do it. This kit will cost just a bit more than the cap/filter.
There is also the matter of standpipes and dummy plugs on the oil rails. The parts for this repair are about $110, and replacing them requires removal of the valve covers.

My suggestion is to do all of them at one shot. If you must pay a garage to do the repair, I would let them tell you what would be best.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for all your insight NYC F-350, the truck usually points downwards at night and at work. I've found a Tech that tells me he will not give up on it so he is my last hope before it goes for sale. Today, I unhooked the Banks 6 gun tuner and it doesn't seem to die as much. Maybe have something to do with amount of fuel being delivered? Problem was always there with tuner or without it so I don't think it is the answer. With rental car and price per hour on Ford's clock, I hope this takes care of it. I'm to the point if it takes 4000 bucks to fix, I'd pay it....
 
#15 ·
Banks 6 gun tuner
:doh:

You will REALLY enjoy this truck once you get that issue taken care, get rid of that Banks garbage, and get some custom tunes via SCT X3.

NYC, how often do you change the BPD oil filter?
 
#16 ·
What tune were/are you running when the issues arise? Also do you have the updated fuel spring and how long has it been since the oil was changed. I know you said you put the new filter in but did you change oil as well. Cleanliness of the oil will have an effect on your injectors.
 
#18 ·
Took the truck to another dealership, dropped 140 bucks and still dies. They said they did the wiggle test and couldn't get it to die. Lately it only dies once a day. I was also told that I had stiction on #4 injecter and that head gaskets were blown. It just turned over 100,000 miles. I hope I make it through the winter...
 
#21 ·
You didn't mention that you had coolant loss or that your truck was blowing coolant out of the degas bottle, so the head gaskets being blown is surprising. Do you see bubbles in the degas bottle at idle? Hear pressure coming out of the degas bottle cap after shut down? Have unexplained coolant loss?

Another thing I feel is surprising is that the mechanic is making a statement about a repair based upon mileage. The fitting is a ticking time bomb and will let go on every truck out there that has it, but mine lasted a little over 100K miles while others have lasted close to 150K. Its just a weak part that will blow, but exactly when is anyones GUESS.

I would agree with Tonto, and remove the tuner. Leave it off the truck until this issue is figured out.
 
#20 ·
I know when I got mine at 109000 I had hpo leak as I was getting a p2290 (I think) which is related to a hpo leak. I took it all apart to replace the stc fitting and it was already done. BUT whoever did it didn't torque the fitting down and the oring was blown out. This may not be related to your case but mine didn't show it was replaced on oasis but it had been since it was the updated fitting just poorly done.
 
#22 ·
First I agree with Tonto throw that Banks in the trash and get an SCT Tuner. Banks=Duramax and they were orignally build for the Duramax. I have the BPD oil cooler and I love it. I have had it for over a year now. I change my oil every 5-6k and a new oil filter which only cost me $19 for the filter from CarQuest and Rotela T6 5W-40. I would look long and hard at the SCT, dummy plugs and stand pipes. I replaced my SCT fitting at 124,000 while I was in doing my EGR Cooler and Oil Cooler so unless you see it was replaced on previous maintenace assume it is still in the truck.
 
#26 ·
Bam! You should just copy and paste that into any coolant/egr problem-related thread NYC.
 
#27 ·
Thanks NYC for your time. I think I'm going to sit down and figure which of those parts I'm going to replace first(probably STC) because Christmas is coming soon and papa can't spend that much right now. I have a local garage that works on pickups to commercial trucks that I have in mind to do the work.

Because of your help, I'm going to send a check to Morgan....:wink[3]:
 
#28 ·
I have now had the head gaskets, studs, stand pipes, dummy plugs, stc fitting, oil/filter, and coolant replaced. 4000 bucks later, I think its fixed. The STC fitting was definitely leaking due to the o-ring being disfigured. Truck runs great and idles very smooth.

Maybe Big Dirty and I can get to liking each other again. THANKS to everybody, especially NYC-350, for all the help and advice...

Troy:woot::icon_ford:
 
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