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WATER PUMP/HEAD GASKETS?????

5K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  southend 
#1 ·
ok my ford tech thinks my head gaskets are bad since i keep loosing coolent and build A LOT A LOT of pressure in the degass bottle(whisles and you can hear it blow off steam). He has no time to fix them right now so ive been adding 1-2 gallons of water everyday just to be able to go to work. Now i came out the gym and there was water leaking downthe parking lot from my truck. It looks like its coming from right above the balancer, which i think is where the water pump is( can't see anything in a 6.0 engine bay)... So will running straight water ruin a water pump and will it hurt anything else? :dunno: If any of you have any other suggestions of the problem let me know. thanks
 
#2 ·
Yes, straight water will corrode your block from the inside. Its a bad idea to run it for any extended amount of time... read, more than a couple of hours.
 
#3 ·
if i flush the coolant system will it remove the water damage?
 
#4 ·
Once rust starts you about have to clean the whole block out to get rid of it, flushing wont do it. And once you start getting rust it will eventually flake off and clog your oil cooler.
 
#5 ·
A chemical flush with Restore and Restore+ or VC-9 will remove as much as is possible.

Read the flush procedure in my signature. If you have rust, you're most likely going to need to do the complete process for any chance of recovery.
 
#6 ·
Straight water can harm the water pump seals and bearings the same way. The antifreeze lubricates these items.



2006 F250 Lariat FX4:
MBRP 4" Turbo Back Exhaust
Blue FPR Spring
Edge Insight CTS
1200rpm High Idle Mod
Dieselsite Coolant Filter
58v Swamps FICM
 
#7 ·
Pull the small hose off the degas bottle (the one from the intake manifold). Route the hose into a bucket. Start and run the engine at a high idle to check for flow. If coolant is NOT flowing, the water pump impeller is shot, not flowing coolant to cause your overheat condition. If you do see coolant flowing at a steady stream when doing this test, your head bolts have likely stretched, causing excessive pressure throughout the entire cooling system. The water pump seal you describe, is likely a RESULT of your head bolt stretch, not the CAUSE.
 
#10 ·
What if the oil cooler is clogged wouldn't that affect flow? I tried this myself and had about a a cup of coolant come out after about 2 minutes of running when warm. The stream was not steady it was just a couple of burps in the 2 or 3 minutes that gave me approx. a cup of coolant. I replaced my oil cooler about 6 months ago after a flushing and my egr is deleted. My ect/eot deltas are within acceptable specs. I've been getting pressure at my degass bottle, not full on puking but weeping out the cap, the caps is new and I don't get a whistle but there is pressure in the degass bottle. The upper radiator hose is hard when warm and the heater blows cold at idle. Could this be a bad water pump or a giant air bubble from exhaust gasses. I'm not running hot but it seems to get to operating temperature quicker according to my SCT guages.
The only time my temps get over 188 is climbing a hill and my ect and eot are getting warmer than normal but nothing outrageous.
 
#8 ·
M-chan68... I have arp studs and black onyx gaskets. Will the arps stretch to? Should I replace them?
 
#9 ·
ARP head studs are re-usable from what I have been told. There have been numerous threads started by various members that have had repeat head gasket failures when using Black Onyx gaskets. I have yet to hear of repeat failures from those using ARP head studs in conjunction with the Ford gaskets.
 
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