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replaced injectors now truck doesnt run WTF need help asap!!!!

3K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  brentyjames 
#1 ·
so start off, fathers truck was running like ****, very weak on power as in would barely move out of its own way. had 4 fault code for injectors. Cleared them and they all came back. truck has around 225k. The truck would still start and run even with the injectors going crazy.


Now replaced those 4 injectors on the passenger side bank and put all of the used injectors on the drivers side bank. Try and try to start truck nothing. Then after a while it would run like ****, but better then it did before and was semi drivable. (for about 2 miles). Came back and had a code in one of the old injectors that was swapped over to the driver side bank. Cleared code and it came back.

Then hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the truck and noticed that after the truck would get fired up and run for a few seconds it would drop all fuel pressure. It got so bad that it would not even have enough fuel pressure to start.

So next thing we replaced was the fuel pump. Put a new oem ford updated fuel pump on the truck with the new pig tail etc.

Truck still did the same thing run about 20 seconds die, now this time it would bring up 2 injector codes. Decided to go ahead and replace the 4 injectors on the driver side bank.

Now seems the truck is no different at all and takes forever to crank but when it does run it will run for about 20 seconds once again and then die. It has done this for a repeated amount of times and now there are no codes (using a mac scan tool)

We have replaced all filters, all 8 injectors, valve covers, full of oil,glow plugs, fuel pump

This thing is driving me nuts. I do not understand how the hell the truck is running when it gets put into the shop and now after replacing all of this stuff it will not even stay running at all. And when it does run it doesnt run that great.

Again when it starts up, watch the fuel pressure gauge and it will just start to loose fuel pressure and then cut off. I am not familiar with the 6.0's and the 2 mechanics who are working on it are both Detroit and cat mechanics and this is there first 6.0 as well.

we are all banging are heads agaisnt the wall as this is very frustrating.

btw the truck is bone stock

any help would be greatly appreciated asap
 
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#3 ·
Did you replace the fuel spring at the fuel filter housing? The stock fuel spring can degrade over time causing you to lose fuel pressure which can kill injectors.

Remove the cap on the top side fuel filter housing and have someone turn the key to the "on" position (don't crank it), does the fuel filter housing full up with fuel?

Get the upgraded fuel spring kit (called the "blue" spring) it's like $50 and comes with the new updated spring and the gaskets. This upgraded spring will also raise your overall fuel pressure by a good 10 psi.

Do you have a way of testing your fuel pressure? It should be >40 psi.

If it's not on the fuel side then it's on the high pressure oil side. Since the oil system runs the injectors you could have a cracked STC fitting (if it's an 05 - 07) in the HPOP which would drop the oil pressure causing injector problems.

Typically you won't see 3 - 4 injectors go at the same time so this has me thinking it's not an injector issue per se but an oil or fuel pressure issue.

What year truck and motor?
 
#5 ·
we have already done all of the injectors and fuel pump. It seems like a fueling issue, to me because on the gauge when you watch it after it gets fired up for a few seconds the fuel pressure will almost instantly drop and then the truck will shut off, also as far as the spring kit goes. Why would the truck be running and then drop off the way it does, and if the spring was bad then I would of thought the truck would not of run to begin with. It would stay running etc before the replacement of the injectors/ fuel pump, as in you could drive it up and down the street. ( just ran like ****)


also now I am starting to wonder if maybe the new oem fuel pump I got could possibly be bad?

this truck has become an absolute nightmare through and through. never had a single problem with it until now. and now it is putting me in a bind and behind in work so I need to get it taken care of asap
 
#6 ·
there is a procedure to 'purge' the system before it ever runs. They are difficult to get running right after and injector change, they don't just start up and run like a top after changing injectors. It is an ordeal, and takes some time. Enough time to burn up starters if not done properly.

Are you aware of this? I will find the procedure for you if necessary....
 
#7 ·
no I did not "purge" the system I sent you a pm.

I would think with it running for 20-30 seconds at a time when it would run that it was getting the air out enough for it to run and then finally pick up and clear out. it went on for about 30 minutes running for 20-30 seconds. then die and when it died fuel pressure just fell right off
 
#8 ·
Ford recommends driving it for 30 miles after getting the vehicle running to fully purge the air out of the system.

This is a time consuming process. I've never done it, but read about it several times and know that you don't put the valve covers back on, crank it, and drive it. We're talking about a HPOP system that is anywhere from 500 to 4000 psi based on throttle/load/etc, and little tiny bubbles have huge ramifications to the injector spool valve operating properly. Be patient, and give your starter cool down breaks inbetween long cranking sessions.
 
#9 ·
Why has nobody mentioned the FICM? Check your FICM voltage while cranking. It should stay above 46v. If it drops below that the FICM is bad. A bad FICM will often show up with codes for multiple injector failures. I would have checked this before replacing anything.
 
#11 ·
:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree:
WOW Yep this problem screams “ You have a bad FICM” Trouble shooting by shot gunning parts is super expensive and way to frustrating.

Check the FICM if it’s bad and you replace it then you can move on to getting the system purged out. With that many miles on the truck , I would upgrade the fuel pressure regulator to the blue spring , as well as dummy plugs and stand pipes, The O’rings on the high pressure oil distribution system have got to be getting fried by now.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Yes this is the cause of your problems. The FICM is a precision piece of electronic hardware that was soldered together with lead free solder ( Thanks to the EU) and the solder joints inside crack out and you loose connection on the DC converter board. An why did Ford decide to mount it to the valve cover of a diesel engine? If you are handy with a soldering iron you can fix your FICM pretty easily. You can also get just the DC converter board from Ford and do a half shell repair. There are instructions on the .ORG for the solder repair (see the links). You can get one from ford (worst choice) or you can order a 58 volt unit from Swamps Diesel (BEST CHOICE) the OEM unit is likely to have a repeat failure and it cost a fortune by the time it get programmed and installed. The Swaps unit is preprogrammed.

READ THESE LINKS:


http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-repair-help/147266-ficm-repair-upgrade.html

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-repair-help/120813-fix-ur-ficm.html
 
#14 ·
so took it apart today and saw no burn marks on the board anywhere, nothing was loose, all solder looks fine.

thinking about just sending it out and getting a new one because some sights say if you do it yourself and try to solder it that they will not give you anything for your core (hardly anything 50 bucks)
 
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