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03 f350 its a dog
Hello All, Im the new guy with his first diesel. I have been reading this forum for 3 weeks and have some questions i have tried a lot of what i have read here.
03 f350 6.0 with 84000k. Short block replaced at 55k turbo replaced at 60k, Vehicle was baught back by ford at some time in there as well. All this unknown at time of purchase( i blame no one but myself. ) I drive diesels all the time as a firefighter and decided to get my own.. OOOPs! guess i should have researched a little better before getting this one. I know all makes and models have issues and since i already own it, i am not going to vent on that much more. Issues Please Help!! Gauges are on the way by UPS pyro/trans/boost/fuel pressure Factory gauges say everything is normal and no codes No power until 2000RPM is this normal (My 55000lb fire truck leaves the line FASTER THEN THIS TRUCK.) Cleaned VGT selenoid, removed inspected and cleaned boost tube connections. no leaks there. Blowing a lot of Black smoke until turbo kicks in.( worse since adding Diesel Kleen on this fill up) Normal? It only puffed the slightest hint off smoke before adding Diesel Kleen on this fill up. (The grey Bottle) Idle is pretty smooth, Exhaust Back pressure clean, MAP hose and sensor clean. Dont know how to actually test sensor. When the turbo hits in at 2000 its like taking off in a jet but before that is like driving a riding lawn mower. I can not hear the turbo at all at idle. cant hear it till 1500 rpm then if i control throttle i can hear it down to 1100 RPM. If i let off throttle completely no turbo sound until i throttle back up.. ( the videos i have seen of the 03 6.0 make turbo noise at idle.) Paperwork shows reman turbo put on at 55000k I know this was long but just a little lost. I dont have number to give but im sure you guys have some idea for a direction to send me |
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also forgot to add that at WOT 3k or higher rpm turbo has split second cutting out almost like a purge of boost and a little smoke comes out pipe. and i mean split second like power split second loss power split second loss then power and keeps going. no leaks found on inspection
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At the very least, removal and disassembly of the turbo for inspection definitely sounds like it's in order for this vehicle. Have a look at the VGT unison ring, particularly where the cam pivot travels in the slot. If it is jelly bean shaped, it needs to be replaced. Also check to make sure the cam pivot moves freely (no binding in any part of its travel). If it binds anywhere, the entire CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assembly) needs to be replaced.
By the way, the EBP sensor on 2003 model years are literally there just to look good, since it serves no purpose. Ford deleted EBP sensor input during the 06E17 PCM reprogram on 2003 engines. |
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I will start the turbo cleaning in a couple days..
I also have found that i have the braided oil line for the turbo. I thought i read this was a recall because of clogging up. If this wasnt replaced is there possibility there are still trucks like my running around without current flash. doesnt make sense since the turbo was replaced at a dealership it should have been upgraded there. |
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I removed turbo opened and found unison ring frozen to the turbo. it was obvious that the veins had not moved for a while.. got the ring off cleaned everything the hole for aactuator was still correct shape but had the slightest spot that i thought might be wear mark. cleanedd everything and couldnt wait to get it all back together since this had to be the problem.. well i thought was driving better as i was going easy on it slow to give throttle and the drive was nice no smoke or anything.BUT gave her teh big foot and smok spewing and not really moving until the turbo kicks in.. tons of power i can hear tires trying to break free when turbo is kicked in.. I also can hear turbo spooling down now wheni shut off but under load it is spewing.. and it threw a code going now to find what it was.
also retracing looking for something i may have unplugged or forgot to plug back in any ideas guys. thanks |
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When that happens, the unison ring sticking to the housing, Ford doesnt want you to clean that area, replace the whole entire turbo. I dont even F around with CHRAs anymore, 9 times out of 10 it seems theres something that binds whether its the impeller housing from prior failed or severely stuck turbo, or the new assembly with a new impeller housing. The turbo shouldnt just "kick in" should build steady boost. Not dog dog dog WAM in your seat and tires are roasting. To some thats awesome and they want that, others want the smooth application of boost. If thats what you like, have at it, otherwise new turbo. If its a 2263 its probably a leak from the up pipe that feeds the turbo. Either the clamp didnt seat properly or its not mated properly. If thats the case, losen everything back up remove the down pipe and the up pipe clamp, the 3 turbo hold down bolts and turn the turbo to meet the up pipe perfectly, then clamp it and torque it down, then mount it to the pedestal and run the 3 bolts home and then the down pipe and you should not have another up pipe leak. |
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sounds like i will have to get a new turbo.
In an effort to rule out the selenoid being bad and the chance it quit moving turbo internals which allowed it to rust in place. I attempted to test selenoid and check resistance. i wasnt sure which resistance setting to have digital meter set but at 20k setting resistance was .002 with hot engine. at 200 resistance was 5.4 at all other settings it showed no resistance. So reading the specs for the selenoid is says a normal hot resistance was somewhere in the 5.0 area off the top off my head but at what setting should this been at on meter... I am no expert with meters or electrical diagnostics in any way. so forgive my lack of understanding. thanks |
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