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i'm stumped!?
Ok guys I'm back again with another problem. Started a few months ago. Stopped driving my truck everyday due to diesel prices and lack of work for a while. On to the point... crank my truck in the morning, no problem, drive 30 miles or so, turn truck off after engine is good and hot, will not crank again for atleast another 4 hours or so, until the engine has cooled. I was told a while back I have some failing injectors which I havent fixed yet, I guess this could be the problem? Or not? I've read HPOP, crankshaft position sensor (changed), camshaft sensor, and a few other things I cant remember. Just lookin for some advice here, im willing to experiment with some things, but I want to start with the cheaper things not the most expensive. All my truck info should be in my signature, if its not just let me know ill post it.
Any help is appreciated, Thanks |
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No start when hot sounds like HPO sytem, STC fitting, standpipes or dummy plugs, not an expensive fix but labor intensive, at least for mee it was.... sitting for 4 hrs I couldnt tell ya
This was the o-ring on my dummy plug, the culprit in my no hot start...
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Deeslvrgn, are there any write ups on these things? I'm not sure where all this is!? And if it is the oring on the dummy plug do I have to replace the whole plug or just the oring?
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I'll look around for the write ups, the plugs are cheap, any dealer that sells superduties shouls carry themm, the old style have a 10mm hex on em the new ones have 12mm, they're right under the valve covers, not too difficult... the the standpipes are on the firewall side of the heads the dummy plugs up front, you'll see they are similar when you buy them, the heater core plastic cover needs to come of to get the standpipe out on the passenger side, the driver side has the FICM in the way, thats the hard part there, changing the standpipes and dummy plugs takes about 5 minutes and are torqued to 60 ft/lbs each all together in parts was around 120.00 for all 4 pieces
for a write-up just google standpipes and dummy plugs, thats how I found it, but I know on here there are plenty, try the forum search fo no hot start |
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Just my theory, when the oil is hot and thin it can't build the required 500psi to start the injectors, now when hot, i get a crank and a half anf fire right up, amazing that a little o-ring will stop these motors in their tracks
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Just an update, took the passenger side valve cover off this evenin. Not a terrible job, looks like the driver side will be a little more challenging. Quick question, found the 10 mm hex heads right under the valve cover, only to figure out the biggest one I have is an 8. Anyway, I saw two hex heads one in the front and one in the back. I'm guessing the front one is the dummy plug and the back one is the standpipe? And r they both the same size hex head? Thanks in advance.
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Thats another thing to replace. I always replace the stand pipes with the dummy plugs. 9 times outta 10 youll find the orings disintegrated to a degree on the stand pipes and dummy plugs. |
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Thanks for all the help, goin to get into it some more this evening. I also want to check my stc fitting while I'm in there but I'm not exactly sure where it is? Driver side? Passenger side? Have to take the turbo out?
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Turbo has to be removed, egr cooler need to be removed(at least I did) as well as the intake. I have read the intake does not need to fully be removed to take the HPOP cover off but it'll make it a hell of a lot easier. The HPOP cover is in the back center on the top of the block, the HPOP needs to be removed to take the fitting off then you have to make sure the new fittting is flush/aligned/parellel to the the pump so to speak. When reassembling you may want to loosen the bolts from the exhaust manifolds to the up pipes to give you wiggle room when resealing the turbo and up pipe clamps, I tried for 3 days before I drove it over to the dealer. They charged 200 bucks in labor for that.
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