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post #1 of 14 Old 06-27-2011, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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i'm stumped!?

Ok guys I'm back again with another problem. Started a few months ago. Stopped driving my truck everyday due to diesel prices and lack of work for a while. On to the point... crank my truck in the morning, no problem, drive 30 miles or so, turn truck off after engine is good and hot, will not crank again for atleast another 4 hours or so, until the engine has cooled. I was told a while back I have some failing injectors which I havent fixed yet, I guess this could be the problem? Or not? I've read HPOP, crankshaft position sensor (changed), camshaft sensor, and a few other things I cant remember. Just lookin for some advice here, im willing to experiment with some things, but I want to start with the cheaper things not the most expensive. All my truck info should be in my signature, if its not just let me know ill post it.

Any help is appreciated,
Thanks

Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-27-2011, 07:19 PM
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No start when hot sounds like HPO sytem, STC fitting, standpipes or dummy plugs, not an expensive fix but labor intensive, at least for mee it was.... sitting for 4 hrs I couldnt tell ya

This was the o-ring on my dummy plug, the culprit in my no hot start...
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2006 F350 CC LB SRW 4X4
-Goose Neck
-updated STC, Dummy Plugs, standpipes, oil feed line, "Blue" fuel pressure spring
-SCT Livewire TS w/Pyro "Looney Tuned"
-RECON smoked clearance lights, black OEM grill
-Kitty and Muffler delete
-POWERMAX TURBO
-58V FICM from QuickTricks
-Huge WISHLIST
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-27-2011, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Deeslvrgn, are there any write ups on these things? I'm not sure where all this is!? And if it is the oring on the dummy plug do I have to replace the whole plug or just the oring?

Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-27-2011, 07:47 PM
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I'll look around for the write ups, the plugs are cheap, any dealer that sells superduties shouls carry themm, the old style have a 10mm hex on em the new ones have 12mm, they're right under the valve covers, not too difficult... the the standpipes are on the firewall side of the heads the dummy plugs up front, you'll see they are similar when you buy them, the heater core plastic cover needs to come of to get the standpipe out on the passenger side, the driver side has the FICM in the way, thats the hard part there, changing the standpipes and dummy plugs takes about 5 minutes and are torqued to 60 ft/lbs each all together in parts was around 120.00 for all 4 pieces

for a write-up just google standpipes and dummy plugs, thats how I found it, but I know on here there are plenty, try the forum search fo no hot start



2006 F350 CC LB SRW 4X4
-Goose Neck
-updated STC, Dummy Plugs, standpipes, oil feed line, "Blue" fuel pressure spring
-SCT Livewire TS w/Pyro "Looney Tuned"
-RECON smoked clearance lights, black OEM grill
-Kitty and Muffler delete
-POWERMAX TURBO
-58V FICM from QuickTricks
-Huge WISHLIST
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-27-2011, 07:53 PM
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Just my theory, when the oil is hot and thin it can't build the required 500psi to start the injectors, now when hot, i get a crank and a half anf fire right up, amazing that a little o-ring will stop these motors in their tracks



2006 F350 CC LB SRW 4X4
-Goose Neck
-updated STC, Dummy Plugs, standpipes, oil feed line, "Blue" fuel pressure spring
-SCT Livewire TS w/Pyro "Looney Tuned"
-RECON smoked clearance lights, black OEM grill
-Kitty and Muffler delete
-POWERMAX TURBO
-58V FICM from QuickTricks
-Huge WISHLIST
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-28-2011, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update, took the passenger side valve cover off this evenin. Not a terrible job, looks like the driver side will be a little more challenging. Quick question, found the 10 mm hex heads right under the valve cover, only to figure out the biggest one I have is an 8. Anyway, I saw two hex heads one in the front and one in the back. I'm guessing the front one is the dummy plug and the back one is the standpipe? And r they both the same size hex head? Thanks in advance.

Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-28-2011, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06kngrnch84 View Post
Just an update, took the passenger side valve cover off this evenin. Not a terrible job, looks like the driver side will be a little more challenging. Quick question, found the 10 mm hex heads right under the valve cover, only to figure out the biggest one I have is an 8. Anyway, I saw two hex heads one in the front and one in the back. I'm guessing the front one is the dummy plug and the back one is the standpipe? And r they both the same size hex head? Thanks in advance.
In answer to both your questions, yes and yes. The replacement ones use a 12mm head, and have white teflon reinforcement rings added to it. Torque them all the 60ft-lbs. when installing.

http://www.yorkdaleford.com/service.html

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post #8 of 14 Old 06-29-2011, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
In answer to both your questions, yes and yes. The replacement ones use a 12mm head, and have white teflon reinforcement rings added to it. Torque them all the 60ft-lbs. when installing.
before they came out as an update i was whipping lcf dummy plugs and stand pipes in.

Thats another thing to replace. I always replace the stand pipes with the dummy plugs. 9 times outta 10 youll find the orings disintegrated to a degree on the stand pipes and dummy plugs.
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-29-2011, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help, goin to get into it some more this evening. I also want to check my stc fitting while I'm in there but I'm not exactly sure where it is? Driver side? Passenger side? Have to take the turbo out?

Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-29-2011, 07:45 AM
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Turbo has to be removed, egr cooler need to be removed(at least I did) as well as the intake. I have read the intake does not need to fully be removed to take the HPOP cover off but it'll make it a hell of a lot easier. The HPOP cover is in the back center on the top of the block, the HPOP needs to be removed to take the fitting off then you have to make sure the new fittting is flush/aligned/parellel to the the pump so to speak. When reassembling you may want to loosen the bolts from the exhaust manifolds to the up pipes to give you wiggle room when resealing the turbo and up pipe clamps, I tried for 3 days before I drove it over to the dealer. They charged 200 bucks in labor for that.



2006 F350 CC LB SRW 4X4
-Goose Neck
-updated STC, Dummy Plugs, standpipes, oil feed line, "Blue" fuel pressure spring
-SCT Livewire TS w/Pyro "Looney Tuned"
-RECON smoked clearance lights, black OEM grill
-Kitty and Muffler delete
-POWERMAX TURBO
-58V FICM from QuickTricks
-Huge WISHLIST
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