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Loss of power no codes?
The last week or so I have noticed that my truck has been running like a dog. It starts perfectly (cranks for 1-2 seconds and starts immediatly with no abnormal sounds). It idles perfectly with no miss. However, from a dead stop if you give it gas (1/3 to 1/2 throttle, to take off some what quickly) it blows black smoke and takes almost 8-10 seconds before it makes any boost. Once it builds boost it seems to run decent and the smoke stops, but doesn't have the power like it use to. I noticed as well that when it does make boost that it doesn't make as much boost as it used to. When I mash the pedal while dirving (wot) it only builds maybee 21-23 psi and acts like it does from a dead stop (blows a little black smoke and takes 8-10 seconds before it builds boost). I pretty sure that it used to climb close to 28 psi and it did it within a couple of seconds. My truck is a 2006 F250 6.0. The motor is stock, I am running an SCT tuner (been running just the 100 hp tune that was written by Toxic Diesel out of St. George, Ut), 4 inch Banks exhaust system (still have the kitty), use diesel kleen at every fill up, fuel filters change 3000 miles ago, oil filter changed and oil changed 3000 miles ago, still have the egr cooler (but has been disabled by the sct programer), and have gauges to monitor EGT, Trans Temp, Boost, EOT, and ECT. I have 89,900 miles on the truck now. I am thinking that maybee my turbo is dirty and sooted up
. But at the same time I know that other things can cause the turbo to not function properly. I have also noticed that the turbo farts more than it used to when I let off the gas(not every time, but when I have decent boost built). I am not throwing any codes right now and have no idea where to start. I looked at all of the elbows on the turbo and I can't find an air leak, but doesn't mean that there isn't one (I can't hear any leaks either). Also I might mention that the reason I think that it might be a turbo problem is because I have a short drive to work (only 5 miles one way, which probably isn't good for a diesel from what I have read). Also I pulled my boat to the lake this weekend (with the tow tune on my SCT) and I really put a heavy load on the truck and the problem seemed to get a little bit better. After doing some reading, I have learned that these trucks need to be driven hard to prevent the turbo from getting sooted up. Any help that anyone could give me would be helpful. I would really like to get my truck back to normal and I am willing to do anything to resolve this problem. Thanks |
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Also I did a complete coolant flush (thanks to the info I found on this sight) and replaced the coolant with reccomended coolant and a new thermostat. My ECT and EOT temp differentail is never greater than 6-7 degrees.
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Sounds like your turbo veins are sticking or your turbo vein solonoid could be going. I'd start by pulling the turbo and give it a good cleaning, if that doesn't fix it then it may be the solonoid that controls the turbo vein articulation.
Do you have or know someone who has AutoEnginuity that could pull the soft codes that wouldn't throw a CEL? |
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Also, I have an SCT tuner. Can I read the FICM voltage with this? Is this something that I should check? Is there anything else that I can read with the tuner that I should be checking that might be related to this problem?
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Thats more than you would typically need.
You need a "turbo mounting hardware" kit which is about 8 bucks through Tousley Ford and if you have an electric drill and a wire wheel (cup) and a wire wheel on your bench grinder, you won't need the turbo cleaning kit. 3C3Z-9T514-AD is the turbo hardware kit 4C4Z-9V424-AA is the turbo cleaning kit in the egr cooler/oil cooler repair link in my signature, there are a few tips and a PDF file for the cleaning process. If you use anti-seize anywhere, only use it on the back of the unison ring and NOT the side that has the vanes. You can also use the anti-seize on the mating surface between the two halves. That all said, that kit on fleabay isn't a bad kit for the cost. The turbo oil supply line is the updated one and that alone runs in the $150 range. The clamps are about 18-20 bucks each. so that kit isn't a bad price. As an EDIT: The "VGT" repair kit he has is just a new electrical pigtail. You probably won't need that. |
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That isn't exactly what I said.
The kit on ebay comes with the new style turbo oil supply line and a few clamps you MIGHT need. It is not really a full rebuild kit, so to speak. The turbo oil supply line is a good idea, and you can also get that through Tousley as well. If I was in your shoes, I would get the turbo mounting hardware kit, the turbo oil supply line and if you don't have the cleaning materials to clean out the gunk from inside the turbo, get the cleaning kit as well. The pdf file for turbo cleaning, I have attached to this reply below. That is the piece of paper you get enclosed with the cleaning kit. If you do not buy the cleaning kit, you can download the pdf file and have written directions on how to clean it. As an added bonus, I have attached the turbo removal/reinstall PDF file as well. I still recommend reading the link in my sig about oil/egr cooler replacement for some tips about getting the turbo lined back up with the y-pipe. |
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