HELP... Constant coolant puking from bottle at higher rpm only - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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HELP... Constant coolant puking from bottle at highway speeds only

Ok, so kinda started in the winter, noticed that it took a really long time to get heat after warming up for 20 mins... about 2-3 miles before heat... Eventually wound up changing thermostat... still no real change... but lately I've been adding antifreeze like a maniac... At idle, or low speed, truck is fine, doesn't overheat or puke antifreeze... However higher RPM or driving at highway speeds eventually pukes out the antifreeze, and truck gets hot, gotta pullover, and wait, bleed pressure, and add more... it does seem to have excessive pressure in bottle... dunno where to even start with this....
Last year Feb, I had black onyx gaskets installed, Heads were checked, Truck was studded, Sinister Full delete with up pipe, New oil cooler... changed thremostat this yr...

2005 F250 Crew SRW
34" Nitto on 20" Moto metal
Home made EGR delete (bung & new up pipe),
Straight pipe & stacks, SCT w/ID tunes

Last edited by Lifsvr7; 06-19-2011 at 03:18 PM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 09:58 AM
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im going to teach you how to test for bad head gaskets.

go get a brass T 3 nipples, 3/8s vacuum hose, a 0-30psi gauge, hose clamps, a tire valve stem a drill a die and a tap. Drill into the center of the T thread the hole, thread the brass section of the valve stem, put some teflon tape on the threads, thread in the 3 nipples, teflon tape on them, the Top nipple put the 3-4 foot long section of the vacuum hose clamp all the hoses, take the hose going to degas bottle off put 1 end of the t fitting on and cut a 3 inch section off the vacuum hose you bought and clamp it to the other nipple and to the degas bottle. Run the hose up the corner of the hood, put a tire chuck on it back off when it hits 16psi close the hood let it latch one step dont slam it shut, take the gauge into the cab fire it up go up a hill or on a long straight and hold it wide open. If it builds over 17psi bad head gasket.
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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yes, but not even being a year? less than 20k miles?? I don't beat my rig, I run around on a mild street tune. I tow a 6k boat no more than 30 miles at a time, no grades, less than once a month.

2005 F250 Crew SRW
34" Nitto on 20" Moto metal
Home made EGR delete (bung & new up pipe),
Straight pipe & stacks, SCT w/ID tunes
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Lifsvr7 View Post
yes, but not even being a year? less than 20k miles?? I don't beat my rig, I run around on a mild street tune. I tow a 6k boat no more than 30 miles at a time, no grades, less than once a month.
yes even you babying your truck!
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post #5 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by verotik View Post
yes even you babying your truck!
imma check that out... it jus puzzles me, that even after fixing all the "problem" areas of the truck after 20K miles the gaskets would blow?? I mean WTF? really?? you would think it would last a little bit right?

2005 F250 Crew SRW
34" Nitto on 20" Moto metal
Home made EGR delete (bung & new up pipe),
Straight pipe & stacks, SCT w/ID tunes
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post #6 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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dunno if it matters but first starting, there is NO blowby coming from the degas bottle... had cap off put hand over and felt nothing...

2005 F250 Crew SRW
34" Nitto on 20" Moto metal
Home made EGR delete (bung & new up pipe),
Straight pipe & stacks, SCT w/ID tunes
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 06:27 PM
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theres no coolant in your oil is there? and ive read where the black onyx head gaskets were not the greatest, ive heard motorcraft gaskets and arp studs are the way to go.

04 PSD SCT X3 extreme race tuned by innovative and looney tuned, straight pipe and dumped before rear tire, afe intake, smoke switch, air dogged out, zoodad mod, egr delete kit (finally), head studs, cfm intake elbow, bd boost fooler, installed new cab lights (didnt have em from factory) 285 bfg mt's, suncoast tq converter, she'll run a 13.4...soon to come a baby lol my mods stop here for now
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post #8 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dleopard19 View Post
theres no coolant in your oil is there? and ive read where the black onyx head gaskets were not the greatest, ive heard motorcraft gaskets and arp studs are the way to go.
Nope, no cross contamination either way... I had the studs & the stocks... I heard the opposite, and ppl swore by em, if you look at stocks they only have a VERY thin line of sealing material around all the jackets and cylinders... blew 4 cylinders, to point where truck was hydro-locking... I had heard that a screwed up water pump or possibly the oil cooler being bad again will also look like a head problem

2005 F250 Crew SRW
34" Nitto on 20" Moto metal
Home made EGR delete (bung & new up pipe),
Straight pipe & stacks, SCT w/ID tunes
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post #9 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 07:10 PM
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If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck.....

No heat+coolant puking under boost=headgaskets.

do you have a factory egr cooler?



2005 Lariat CCSB F-350 SRW
300,000 miles and going strong

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post #10 of 11 Old 06-19-2011, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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nope... no cooler... studded... gaskets... supposedly fixed all our trucks notorious problems..

2005 F250 Crew SRW
34" Nitto on 20" Moto metal
Home made EGR delete (bung & new up pipe),
Straight pipe & stacks, SCT w/ID tunes
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