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6.0 no start in morning? but it's not cold

30K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  CJ Morin 
#1 ·
Hey all,

My 6.0 won't start in the morning easily when the water/oil temp of the truck is under 70*... I think it might be a HPOP issue but mine starts and runs fine when the truck is warm temps above 130* unlike the stalling and not starting when warm issues I see in other threads. Obviously 70* isn't cold by any means so Im clueless. it's like it's having cold start issues but in warm weather?? any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Hard cold start, normal hot starts are classic symptoms of FICM issues.

Remove the batteries from the truck and have them load tested.
Your batteries can be toast and still turn the truck over quickly. Sounds weird but its true. If they fail the load test, or are marginal replace them.
Then ensure they are charged fully.

Next step is to follow these directions from Swamps:

**FICM voltage tests should be performed with the engine oil COLD (ie, close to ambient air temperature). This will force the FICM into it's inductive heating strategy, which will give you a worse case scenario/voltage reading. If the engine has been run (within 5-6 hours of this test), then the warm engine oil may not give you an accurate FICM voltage.

On all 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engines you will find the FICM bolted to the drivers side valve cover...you may need to unbolt the coolant reservoir from the 'cowl' so that you can get your arms/hands back there to work on the FICM.

You don't need to drain the coolant...just unbolt the bracket that hold the coolant reservoir, and gently move it as far out of your way as possible. Be careful, as there is a plastic coolant connector that can be cracked if the coolant jug is handled forcefully.

On the top of the FICM, you will see a diamond/oval shaped metal plate...remove the two screws from that plate (Torx#20).

under that plate you will either see 7 "lugs"...or 4 "lugs" (depending on the year of the truck)...

if you have a "7 lug FICM"...you want to put one lead from your multimeter onto the upper left "lug"...and the other multimeter probe to ground (bare spot on the cylinder head, alternator bracket, negative battery terminal, etc).

If you have a "4 lug FICM"...you will want to check the lug on the right (closest to the drivers side fender).

be careful NOT to lean the probe on the FICM lug...over onto the aluminum case...you might let the smoke out, LOL...

Have someone turn the key to the 'on' position (don't crank it yet)...and see what your FICM voltage is. It should be >46volts.

Next have someone crank the engine...and see what the FICM voltage is while cranking...again..should be >46volts.

Go ahead and start the engine...and see what the voltage is while idling.

If the FICM voltage drops below 46 volts...then it is "bad"...

we have seen FICM's as low as 17volts...some 19v's...some in the twenty's and low thirties...

obviously...the lower the voltage...the 'worse' the FICM is...and the more likely that (cold) rough running would be a result of a bad FICM.

however..if you email (or call) us and say that your FICM is dropping to 43-44volts...while low..I think that you may have some underlying injector issues that may be contributing to your cold rough running, as much as the slightly low voltage FICM

You can email any questions to dave@swampsdiesel.com ; however, if your voltage IS low...then your FICM is bad, and you can place an order at the following link. Swamp's Webstore - Custom Electronics

due to the high demand of our (48v &/or 58v) Heavy Duty FICM's, we are typically running 2 days behind on current orders...if you need express delivery, please make a note in the comments section during your online checkout, and we will call you with shipping options and rate quotes.
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Nearly all HPOP issues present themselves after the oil is up to operating temps. The oil will thin out when warm and seek the path of least resistance. Then the pressure drops, resulting in hard-start/no-start condition.
There is one time where you could have an HPOP problem when cold, but, answer this question first.
When you park your truck for the night, do you park it on an incline, nose up?
 
#11 ·
Hard cold start, normal hot starts are classic symptoms of FICM issues.


When you park your truck for the night, do you park it on an incline, nose up?
I know this is an old thread but I have a question.

What effect does parking with the nose pointing up have?

I ask because I am having issues with my truck today with a cold no start. I have used the truck to go and from work the last three days and it starts but it takes a few seconds of cranking for it to do so. I am saving up to do a bulletproof this summer while I am off.

I bought a cheap amazon mini Bluetooth OBD2 plug and use torque pro on a tablet. The FICM Main Power reads 48v while it is in the on position and while trying to crank also.

So this is what I have done to date in the last month
I have replaced the starter.
Changed the oil with Rotella T6
Oil and fuel filters (x2) with Motorcraft filters

I did this this past saturday
I replaced the FICM module with a Dorman one.

I just changed the batteries out this Sunday so they are 4 days old.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
ficm :nod:^^^^^^
 
#4 ·
Yes it sounds like a FICM issue to me too. I have two trucks with the same issue, just found out yesterday that it is probably the FICM. We have been keeping the trucks plugged in at night to help with the hard starting no starting issues. Maybe that will help you until you can get it checked out. Just something to help keep the engine warmer to help start in the morning. Even then they chug for a while until the ECT is up to around approx 130 degrees. Then they run great. Go figure :dunno:
 
#5 ·
Sorry I guess I should've mentioned that my FICM has already been sent to swamps and innovative.. swamps for the 58 volt upgrade and innovative for erics moderate flash.... that was less than 3 months ago i think... I talked with Ted and he doesn't think the ficm could be bad already... I know I have one injectory sticking from time to time... but it only throws a code every now and then.. I am getting no codes right now... and the truck runs completely normal after it starts... and it does start just struggles way more than it should... I guess I could get it checked again? and I had the batteries load tested over the weekend and both are good.. changed my fuel filters and replaced my banjo bolts with 6.4Ls... the problem didn't occur until after I changed my oil.. that was over a week ago.. and it's been starting hard ever since... where can I find a multimeter(?) to test the FICM again?
 
#6 ·
oh and I have wondered about the parking level issue because it seems to be worse when I park at my parents house on the weekends (they live in a valley next to a river so its always a litttle colder there)... but both my house and their house Im parked pretty level.. if anything a little nose down.... ill back my truck in tonight and see if it does anything different
 
#8 ·
Let me give more detail here:

Ford owns patents on filter design for every filter on the truck. Aftermarket companies use gimmicks an doodads to try to get around the designs that are patented.
On the bottom of the oil filter housing there is a poppet valve that, when you go to change the oil and just "crack" open the filter cover, allows the oil to drain from the housing. That is one of the things that Ford has a patent on, how the oil filter fits into the housing and engages that valve.
The fit of the oil filter to the housing (and that valve) is of paramount importance because of this.
If you use an aftermarket filter, it may not properly engage that valve, allowing the oil to drain straight to the crankcase instead of flowing through your engine.
If you have a Motorcraft (or Raycor, or International) oil filter, you might want to take the filter out and check if that valve on the bottom of the housing is still in one piece. This could also cause the concern.

If you did not use a Motorcraft (Raycor or International) filter, change it to one and see if this act alone will correct the problem.
 
#9 ·
Alright I'll try that tonight and see what she does in the morning. I always use motocraft filters, but this literally started the morning after I changed it (I did everything the same as I always do.. oil levels and temps are all normal).

I also had another alternator go out the day after I changed my oil (signs of that happening the night before I changed it)... thats the second alternator in less than a year.. batteries tested fine.. Im hopefully gonna get my ficm tested thursday... how can I test my ficm without paying FORD 100 bucks to do it?

thanks for the help
 
#13 ·
I did not check those I will do that tomorrow when I try it again. I did forget to put that today it is about 10 degrees cooler than usual in the morning it is about 69 but that is still not really cold though.


I do believe I did setup those options to display on torque but I did not bother to look at them. I am going to try it again when I get one see if the warmer weather does make it easier.

I do not believe I put this in my original post but I am having it take longer to crank at least 15 to 20 seconds while the lpop builds pressure on the gauge on the dash.

I am still curios to know what happens when the nose is pointed up while parked overnight though.

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
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