hard start/rough run after cold over nite soak - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:08 AM
th3 th3 is offline
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hard start/rough run after cold over nite soak

my 04 f350 6.0 4x4 with 130k is having cold morning issues. i heard about a reflash that would fix the problem, cost about $150 at the ford place. my truck is acting up so i thought i would go check it out.

tech hooked the truck up and said all 8 of my injectors were worn and were not wanting to doing right when the oil got cold. said the patch flash would help the problem by letting the oil drain out of the injectors when the engine was turned off. this let the injectors act right on cold start, but the flash also deleted the map sensor from the pcm,s strategy on controlling the turbo. the turbo would now be controlled by the ebp sensor. any leak in the exhaust could prevent thr turbo from spooling properly. he said if i had an exhaust leak my truck may not even untrack from the bay after the reflash. wtf?

i dont know enough about the 6.0 to know if this guy is pulling my chain or not. i decided to postpone the reflash till i could check into it.

does anyone know about this reflash?

does it really drain the oil out of the injectors?

why does it also delete the map sensor from the turbo spool calculations?



could i install a tuner on the truck and get a tune put together that would "let the injectors drain" without deleting the map sensor?

seems like asking for trouble to allow an exhaust leak to be able to shut down the turbo.

Last edited by th3; 02-26-2011 at 04:31 AM.
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:57 AM
th3 th3 is offline
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im begining to think the tech didnt understand how the reflash worked. after doing some searching on the net and talking to ted at innovative, i found out that the reflash is for the ficm and corrects the problem of sticking spool valves in the injectors by using the spool valve solenoids to preheat the oil at the injectors, not by draining the oil out of the injector. im not sure what to think about the map sensor delete for the pcm strategy that the tech mentioned.... im still trying to figure that one out. anyway, it looks like i can get the "heat inductive flash" for the ficm and not have to change the pcm strategy.
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:08 AM
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sounds like you need rev-x
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:57 PM
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yeah but ive also heard that the heat induction strategy is what is killing the ficm by creating to much current draw and melting the solder inside. And isnt that what the ficm fix thread is for? I thought you didnt want the heat induction strategy? please correct me if im wrong
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:49 PM
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woah.....that is news to me....

looks like its time to do a search and see what gives...

i found a fix ficm thread but it said something about faulty solder, not that the heat induction flash caused the problem. still searching for more details about it though.

Last edited by th3; 02-23-2011 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:59 PM
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I was told the ficm was made to handle like 12amps of current draw. I was also told that the heat induction strategy draws about 30-32amps which is what is melting the solder in the ficm.
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:59 AM
th3 th3 is offline
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i found several threads about the ficm melting the solder. i really dont want somthing that is going to give me another problem right now, my problem plate is full.

i have been reading about sticking spool valves because of the type of oil being used.

i dont remember having this problen untill my last oil change. this is the first time i let them put that kind of oil in the truck.

think i will use 5/40 rotella t6 this oil change and see if that fixes it, iffin it dont, then put some rev-x in there like ff30 suggested.

maybe its as simple as my truck just doesnt like 15/40 schaffers.

Last edited by th3; 03-12-2011 at 05:53 AM.
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:35 AM
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i did my own oil change this time, replaced the schaffers 15w/40 with rotella t6 5w/40 which made a noticable difference but didnt fix the problem, so i ordered rev-x.

the rev-x came i yesterday afternoon so i dumped both bottles in the motor, let it idle for a while, left the block heater unpluged and waited till this morning.

it is 36 deg. this morning and i cant believe how quick the motor started. no buck snort, no engine lope, every injector working.... nice !

update: i have also noticed that my motor starts quicker, doesnt have the extended crank time it used to have. this rev-x stuff works wonders.

Last edited by th3; 03-12-2011 at 06:04 AM.
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