03 hpop replacement

[grappler1]

Last year I dove into a 06 6.0 that wouldnt run. It had a leaking STC fitting. I had replaced the oil rail plugs at the same time, all went well. I;m into my 2nd one now

Currently I have a 03 in front of me with what I think has a failed HPOP. I have it torn down to the pump, awaiting parts. My question for one of you gurus is whether the 03 has the same stand pipes and dummy plugs and if I should replace them also.

While diagnosing I air checked the system before dissassembly and heard no leakage with IPR powered up. After removing the hpop cover I also air checked it by putting air into the top of the hpop again no leaks heard. I have however not removed valve covers yet.

The truck is just at 200,000 miles.

thx

[grappler1]

maybe this was a really 'noob' question, but hey ya never know about these fords...
My info in mitchell shows this 03 model to have the standpipes and dummy plugs, so naturally I was thinking to replaced them while I was in there, age, mileage, and being problematic and all...

but a service manager with diesel experience at a local dealer told me the 03 does not have them , he claims there was a design change on this first year and mitchell misprinted it?

Does anyone else know for sure?

thx

[ajpu1983]

03s do NOT have dummy plugs. They do have standpipes but they are not the same style and thread into the branch tube. They have an STC style end where your oil rail supply line connects on but I've never personally see one fail.

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by ajpu1983

They have an STC style end where your oil rail supply line connects on but I've never personally see one fail.

..... and neither have I. And that's because the branch tube on '03 and '04 engines are bolted to the rear of the engine block, preventing any possibility of rearward force on the STC fitting. This is unlike '05 and up engines that are only secured via the high pressure oil pump connection and hence the problems associated with them, some of which end up pushing them so far into the rear cover to the point where it's cracked and leaking engine oil externally.

[grappler1]

03s do NOT have dummy plugs. They do have standpipes but they are not the same style and thread into the branch tube. They have an STC style end where your oil rail supply line connects on but I've never personally see one fail

..... and neither have I. And that's because the branch tube on '03 and '04 engines are bolted to the rear of the engine block, preventing any possibility of rearward force on the STC fitting. This is unlike '05 and up engines that are only secured via the high pressure oil pump connection and hence the problems associated with them, some of which end up pushing them so far into the rear cover to the point where it's cracked and leaking engine oil externally

Thanks for the information,
I searched around a bit but didnt find anywhere that stated exactly that.

Maybe I missed it, I was reading alot on diagnosing to refresh myself also, my brain was a bit overloaded though too

I am starting reassembly today. Yesterday I went ahead and split the turbo for cleaning. Also installed a new oil cooler, a Maxxforce unit.

I have a new discharge pipe to go on the new HPOP, figured might as well put a new one on.

Thanks again for saving me the hassle of pulling the valve covers to find out.
I'll post back when I get it running this afternoon.

(btw, I've surfed around here quite a bit in the past few months, all you guys are amazing, great site, wealth of information. I dont work on diesels very often but when have this site has made it much easier. I'll look into making a donation/subscription it's been worth it)

[ajpu1983]

Had my first 03 today with a blown high pressure oil hose. The hose that connects from the standpipe to the oil rail on the passenger side blew through and caused a no-start similar to an STC or dummy plug failure. First time for everything. Had the HPOP out and blew into the branch tube with a rubber tip blower and I could hear it well.

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by ajpu1983

Had my first 03 today with a blown high pressure oil hose. The hose that connects from the standpipe to the oil rail on the passenger side blew through and caused a no-start similar to an STC or dummy plug failure. First time for everything. Had the HPOP out and blew into the branch tube with a rubber tip blower and I could hear it well.

I've had one of those as well. It was on an FQR engine that about 80,000 kms. (that's 50,000 miles for you Americans) on it. The standpipe had worked its way completely loose from the branch tube on the driver side bank of cylinders. Normally, they are so tight that when you attempt to loosen it with your 18mm impact socket on a gun you end up twisting it completely.

[ajpu1983]

Originally Posted by m-chan68

I've had one of those as well. It was on an FQR engine that about 80,000 kms. (that's 50,000 miles for you Americans) on it. The standpipe had worked its way completely loose from the branch tube on the driver side bank of cylinders. Normally, they are so tight that when you attempt to loosen it with your 18mm impact socket on a gun you end up twisting it completely.

That's crazy! Most of the time you gotta fight to get those out!

[grappler1]

Well pretty much finished assembly yesterday, today put the air intake system back on it. Hooked up a battery charger and started cranking it, took about 60-90 seconds of total cranking before the oil pressure gauge built up then it fired off and was idling fine...

then after about 1 min of run time it shut off
Tried cranking again, no joy, it wouldnt start.

Hooked the scan tool back up, now had 1500psi+ ICP, but right away I noticed the FICMM PWR was zero...
Checked fuses found #103 (50A) blown, power to FICM.

I replaced the fuse and it blew as soon as I turned the key to the run position.
I unplugged the wiring harness to the FICM, put a new fuse in and turned the key on, fuse didnt blow. I then proceeded to plug in each of the three FICM connectors in one at a time, found that the furthest most front connector was causing the short...

I pulled the turbo compressor inlet tubing off and stripped the wire loom off the suspect harness. I found the large dark green wire had chafed through and was shorting against another shielded wire. The shielded wire outer insulation was also broken.
Repaired, powered up system, fuse ok, started truck back up. Everything seems good now.

The problem area in the harness was where it runs under the compressor inlet tube, it gets smashed flat there. I should had took pics but was in a hurry. I'm assuming it's probably a common issue.
Through the process of pulling the harness loose and reinstalling it I disturbed that power wire that was already rubbed though. Go figure.

Truck is starting great and runs good.

[m-chan68]

Originally Posted by grappler1

I replaced the fuse and it blew as soon as I turned the key to the run position.
I unplugged the wiring harness to the FICM, put a new fuse in and turned the key on, fuse didnt blow. I then proceeded to plug in each of the three FICM connectors in one at a time, found that the furthest most front connector was causing the short...
I pulled the turbo compressor inlet tubing off and stripped the wire loom off the suspect harness. I found the large dark green wire had chafed through and was shorting against another shielded wire. The shielded wire outer insulation was also broken.Repaired, powered up system, fuse ok, started truck back up. Everything seems good now.

The problem area in the harness was where it runs under the compressor inlet tube, it gets smashed flat there. I should had took pics but was in a hurry. I'm assuming it's probably a common issue.Through the process of pulling the harness loose and reinstalling it I disturbed that power wire that was already rubbed though. Go figure.

Truck is starting great and runs good.

Well then, it looks like this truck is going to be getting a new engine harness in the near future. And yes, it is pretty common for this to happen. Ground shielded areas of the harness (particularly CMP and CKP circuits) can't be repaired or overlayed. I suggest you price out a 3C3Z-12B637-BA (part number for main engine harness on a 2003 6.0L) from whichever source can give you the best price because it looks like you'll be replacing it in the near future.