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Help me make a part list. i think i blow my headgasget... -03 6.0 powerstroke

5K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  juzatheman 
#1 ·
hi. like the title says i think got blown head gasget..

outdoor temp is here Finland now -6'f and my coolant temp stays in 188'f
but no heat to cabin... and there come coolant between the degassbottle cap.
if i let the engine idle and open the degasbottle cap and release the pressure off, and close the cap and let the engine idle about 3-5min. the pressure rise again very high. and because the coolant temp is not rised i think there shoud not come lots of pressure in that time. and if i hit the road normal driving again there come coolant over the degasbottle...
if in park and rise the rpm there starts to come heat to cabin and allso if drive with rpm:s up on the road but when rpms are lower than 1500 heat turns to cold air.

so i am pretty sure that the cylinder pressure goes to coolant system and i think that the problem is in the head/s gasget.

so now i make a list what i need for this work.
and i hope you people can help me with this list.
cause i need to have evrything i need before i start the job.
i will do this work in my auto garage where i work as a car mechanic.
problem is that i have to do this work in two days because i cant hold one lift longer. i need it to repair customers cars, so i cant aford situations that i dont have some part what i need.

part list:
-head gasgets
-intakemanifold gasgets
-exhaustmanifold gasgets
-valve cover gasgets
-cylinderhead bolts (maby arp)

do i need to remove the injectors? cause all of them are just 8 months ago replaced. so do i need new o-rings?
and anything else what comes to mind.

i am open to suggestions.
 
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#2 ·
Too early to say you need head gaskets. Even if your head gaskets are gone, you should still get heat into the cabin. What is the coolant level in the degas bottle when engine is at normal operating temperature (warm)? When engine is at normal temp. it should not be above the "minimum" mold line on your bottle. If it is above you will likely spit coolant out. As for the actual heater problem could be the heater core is clogged up. I've heard of people back flushing the lines going to and coming from the heater box and getting their heat working properly again.
 
#3 ·
i normaly keep the coolant level just on the mark. but then when outdoor temps
drop below zero and i mean like -6'f or less there is very hard to get any heat to cabin. the rear heater start give gold allready at 32'f - 10'f

and if that point i put more coolant over the line then it gets better but not like it shoud be.

nothing else has change here wether,coolant level,driving style...
just that when i install the sct-livewire street mod. and left normaly at work.
and now it makes a lot of pressure to the degasbottle. and come over.

never did this before long like 3 months it have been winter wether here and only problem has been that the engine warms up pretty fast to 188'f i use europe model arctic blockheater and if i start the truck and let it idle (btw. if its cold it rises the rpm by it self to warm up quicker)
i could let it idle like a day or two and still no heat to cabinthe (engine temp will rise to normal) . but if i hit the road and keep the rpm:s over 1300 then there starts to come heat to cabin.

this was before now after it starts to overflow no there is more and more difficult to get heat.
 
#4 ·
If it were me, I would get the engine to operating temp. (warm). Turn the heater on full blow, then feel the heater hoses going to the heater box for heat. If it is hot, then feel the hose coming out of the heater box. It should be warm to hot also. If it isn't, there is your problem... If your engine temp. is not getting above 188F then your thermostat is most likely functioning properly. Check the hoses for heat coming to and going from the heater box.
 
#5 ·
today i confirm that the issue is head gasget.
i did the bullet proof diesel test:

http://www.ntshoptools.com/video/Bad EGR or Blown Head Gasket.wmv

and it bubles like a litle exhaust pipe is under water...
and smells like exhaust gas too.

so now i have to figure out where i can order all necessary parts what i need
to do this job.

problem once again is that i live here in Finland and here i not a place where can buy parts for this car.

have to order from U.S. and that takes a time 2-4 weeks normaly.

so it is important that i get all the parts i need and fast so i can fix my truck.

i allready check that RockAutoParts ithink could sell me what i need, but if someone know a better place who deliver to europe parts i'm all ears...
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
thanks for the link, but i think this is litle bit over my budget.

just bought sct-livewire,new 58v fimc,new headlights,full service parts and all best oils and fluids... and now this happend.

egr-delete i can make my self.
and because truck is for daily use and no hevy mods
only sct-programmer,fimc and cat delete on my mind,
so i think i dont need arp bolts. i know that would be the best way to go
but dont have that kind of money.

have to remember that what items cost there you can double it before they are in my hands.. shipping,Finland taxes and all running costs make all things
what order from U.S. about double the price.
 
#9 ·
Ok. I remove the heads last week and now waiting to get parts and my heads back from the checking for cracks.

i just wonder couple of things.

one, is it possible that -03 powerstroke has at orginal head gasgets
multilayer steel gasgets? or has someone allready at some point change those?

and is it normal that the oil stand pipes are so tight that the tubes bends 3/4 to over a 1 and 1/4 turn before it opens ?? because so hard was my stand pipes.

have to replace those too.

i think stand pipes moment i 45nm and it was more like 200nm before snap and open.
 
#12 ·
O and i did the turbo clean like a 4 months ago.

But i think, i still open it again. Now it's a simple thing to do..
I could see some coolant in it. Just a little, it was still wet when i take it out of the truck.
cause i didint drive the truck after it pukes the coolant and i confirm the diag. That head gasget/s is blown. Only couple of miles nice and easy to my workshop let it be like two days. And then start it and drive it inside and start dissemble the motor.

when i get the oil cooler out, i could see first thing that the oil reservoir screen was broken!

i will not mention the company name but i realy wonder why o why they have not change the screen or oil cooler in process when they change the failed HPOP and all injectors which was full of HPOP pieces.... what i have told.

this repair was taken place before i bought the truck.
 
#14 ·
I first think i could save expences, but i have forced to make decision like this.

I ordered MKM Master Solution(TM) Kit for 6.0L Powerstroke (Sinister EGR Delete, ARP Studs, Black Onyx Gaskets, Oil Cooler)

And from Rock Auto: Water pump,thermostat,air filter,belt and new stand pipes to replace my twisted ones.

So i think thats about all i need.

New oil filter and oils i got allready .

What woud be best coolant for my truck?
I got green,blue and red colour coolant and i was thinkin that red one could be it...?

What realy bugs me, is that i did start asking about part ordering 1.5 weeks ago (one store from Finland), but i never got info how much the parts price is going to be.

I keep asking and asking, evry time i call and add something to my need list.
Evry time the guy say " i will e-mail the prices to you" and nothing happend.

Today morning i call him and say that, my oil cooler is goner so how much that woud cost? And how about the other parts? Do he have prices for those yet?

anserw was that:
-oil cooler would cost 1100 $
-egr delete kit cost 619 $

At that point i say, no need to tell me what the rest of the part would cost.
I won't pay that kind of amounts for the parts.

well you can all figure out what then happend...
big fight about that the order is a order no backing up...

but i realy didnt at any point make any order, i did ask about the prices and options if there are any.

i make it clear that i want to know prices before i make my order. if the prices are right. but this pricses are not!

and best was that he had allready send some parts to me... i got the info later same day.

i wount pick the shipment.

that was a 1.5 weeks time to drain...damn...
 
#16 ·
One relative small company in Finland which repairs american cars and sell parts to american cars.

There are so few american cars here so the markets are small, and only handfull of places where you can even buy parts.

In my opinion those prices are more like "unarmed robbery"..

About the oil cooler.
He says that you can't get it enywhere cheaper it is a orginal ford part.


And that the egr-delete kit is better than the sinister kit...

i just wonder what the whole package had come to cost
from that store.

My opinion is that you can't call it a "deal",
between dealer and cutomer if dealer won't tell you the prices just start to send over priced products to you regardless you attept to know products prices before make up your mind.
 
#17 · (Edited)
First of all, check the Internet for Oil Coolers. No where is anyone charging that much. No way... Secondly, ask him who made the egr cooler delete. That is still extremely high for it.
Go to MKM and check the prices and what they say about the product. Also, check Bulletproof diesel web page on their pricing and what they say. Last of all, make another post separate from this and ask people where you should buy your Oil Cooler and EGR delete package from.... I just don't want you to spend that much money. The ARP studs alone are over $400. Please check the prices. I even called MKM Customs and they do ship overseas. Just make a separate post asking others...
Last but not least Coolant; I run Rotella ELC Concentrate. Some run the Ford Gold Premium, but many have switched to a good ELC. Whatever you do, flush that coolant system out with a good chemical cleaner and distilled water. Put the chemical cleaner in your engine and run for at least 50 to 60 miles, then drain and fill it back with distilled water only and run it again for about 20 to 30 miles. Drain and do it one more time with distilled water only. I did my drain and flush for four days straight making sure all the garbage was out. After that fill it with the coolant you select. There is post somewhere on this website (6.0L Repair Thread) that discusses this.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for your concern.

i did yesterday order the from MKM Customs: MKM master solution kit, it is allready on the way.

and rest needed parts from rock auto.


i can't run the engine with water. outdoor tempas has been -10'F to -25'F last two months and i think at least one month is still that cold.

and i will never ever call that store in Finland again.
 
#19 ·
I got my heads back couple days ago and thank God no cracks...
Now they are macined and next step is fix up the valves.

The master solution kit from MKM Customs left San Francico to here yesterday.

Realy fast action so i'm pleased.

maby end of next week i can start to put the engine back together.

If Finland customs office manage to get the shippement trough in time.
 
#20 ·
Ok. if someone is still reading this thread...

i got the master solution kit today. that was realy fast time to get enything
from U.S. to here.

i did the fix the valves today and put the new valve gasgets and clean the intake side of heads and there was plenty of that black stiky s...
i think i still got some of it on my face =)

tomorrow is time to put new oil cooler and check under the HPOP cover and put new gasgets there too.

if have time, i start to put heads back...

i did't have time to check but i asume that in the ARP head stud box have a torque specs in it. i just wonder is it same with ford than a dodge / cummins diesel that you put the bolts closed and then open and again closed and... this back and forth thing??

and is it wise to touch IPR or let it be? i havent have a issue with ipr and it should be only 7 months old. but who knows.

I'm open to suggestions

EBP sensor i cleaned allready it was full off crap. or clogged i am surprised that no code for that have occurred.
 
#21 ·
@juzatheman.....i'm still reading this thread brother. And I will be until you get your truck going again. Keep us posted. I can't imagine how much of a hassle this has been for you. Keep pluggin away at it and I'm sure you'll be back up and running in no time...with a much better truck than you started with.
 
#24 ·
Ok, i didn't think anyone any longer read this topic.. So if people do,
i'm sorry of my bad englis. I try my best to write that all are more and less on the same page. ("could sound funny")

Didn't have much time to work with truck today... i did get the new HPOP screen and new oilcooler back to truck.
And clean the block and heads gasget areas, put the new dowels on block and new head gasgets on.

O and i put the SCT- EGT sensor to exhaust manifold and throw the manifolds and up pipes (with new shiny Sinister pipe) about their place.

Then when i was starting to put heads back to truck i had to stop.
Had to weld some old rusty nissan micra the whole afternoon...

Don't you just hate when a day jobs come between you and your hobby =)

Anyway then clock was half three and i had to go see a doctor, i have been sick for a week now, so no i get some medicines. Maby i cure someday.

I hope i find time tomorrow put the heads,manifolds,injectors,glowplugs,oil rails and turbo back to truck.

im still short on some parts, i hope i get the last parts next week monday or tuesday.

thanks for the torque specs! but i did allready printed those... thanks anyway.

There was in ARP box that new 210 moment print. =) have to start eat some oatmeal to get strenght to pull that off.

and find a bigger moment wrenc mine stopped at 140 =)

I have a lots of pictures of the project too, but i't is whole other thing to get those pics to here.... would need help from some computer wizard =)
maby in time, if someone would like to see.
 
#25 ·
Todays achievements...

I did get the heads back to truck and tightened to 210 ft lbs.
Well that was a new experience, the working postures was more and less good..
Almost pop my eardrum on my left ear when pull with that torque wrench.
I got ear inflammation on that ear...among other diseases.

and i did put the exhaust manifolds and up pipes back too.

didn't have time for intake manifold,injectors,oil rails and turbo...

that is work list for monday. Now i'm going to rest over weekend and try to heal.
 
#26 ·
Sounds like it's coming together! Take care of yourself, your truck isn't as important as your health.
 
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