Help me make a part list. i think i blow my headgasget... -03 6.0 powerstroke - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:03 AM
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Help me make a part list. i think i blow my headgasget... -03 6.0 powerstroke

hi. like the title says i think got blown head gasget..

outdoor temp is here Finland now -6'f and my coolant temp stays in 188'f
but no heat to cabin... and there come coolant between the degassbottle cap.
if i let the engine idle and open the degasbottle cap and release the pressure off, and close the cap and let the engine idle about 3-5min. the pressure rise again very high. and because the coolant temp is not rised i think there shoud not come lots of pressure in that time. and if i hit the road normal driving again there come coolant over the degasbottle...
if in park and rise the rpm there starts to come heat to cabin and allso if drive with rpm:s up on the road but when rpms are lower than 1500 heat turns to cold air.

so i am pretty sure that the cylinder pressure goes to coolant system and i think that the problem is in the head/s gasget.

so now i make a list what i need for this work.
and i hope you people can help me with this list.
cause i need to have evrything i need before i start the job.
i will do this work in my auto garage where i work as a car mechanic.
problem is that i have to do this work in two days because i cant hold one lift longer. i need it to repair customers cars, so i cant aford situations that i dont have some part what i need.

part list:
-head gasgets
-intakemanifold gasgets
-exhaustmanifold gasgets
-valve cover gasgets
-cylinderhead bolts (maby arp)

do i need to remove the injectors? cause all of them are just 8 months ago replaced. so do i need new o-rings?
and anything else what comes to mind.

i am open to suggestions.
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:12 PM
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Too early to say you need head gaskets. Even if your head gaskets are gone, you should still get heat into the cabin. What is the coolant level in the degas bottle when engine is at normal operating temperature (warm)? When engine is at normal temp. it should not be above the "minimum" mold line on your bottle. If it is above you will likely spit coolant out. As for the actual heater problem could be the heater core is clogged up. I've heard of people back flushing the lines going to and coming from the heater box and getting their heat working properly again.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:59 PM
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i normaly keep the coolant level just on the mark. but then when outdoor temps
drop below zero and i mean like -6'f or less there is very hard to get any heat to cabin. the rear heater start give gold allready at 32'f - 10'f

and if that point i put more coolant over the line then it gets better but not like it shoud be.

nothing else has change here wether,coolant level,driving style...
just that when i install the sct-livewire street mod. and left normaly at work.
and now it makes a lot of pressure to the degasbottle. and come over.

never did this before long like 3 months it have been winter wether here and only problem has been that the engine warms up pretty fast to 188'f i use europe model arctic blockheater and if i start the truck and let it idle (btw. if its cold it rises the rpm by it self to warm up quicker)
i could let it idle like a day or two and still no heat to cabinthe (engine temp will rise to normal) . but if i hit the road and keep the rpm:s over 1300 then there starts to come heat to cabin.

this was before now after it starts to overflow no there is more and more difficult to get heat.
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Old 02-11-2011, 04:51 AM
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If it were me, I would get the engine to operating temp. (warm). Turn the heater on full blow, then feel the heater hoses going to the heater box for heat. If it is hot, then feel the hose coming out of the heater box. It should be warm to hot also. If it isn't, there is your problem... If your engine temp. is not getting above 188F then your thermostat is most likely functioning properly. Check the hoses for heat coming to and going from the heater box.
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:33 AM
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today i confirm that the issue is head gasget.
i did the bullet proof diesel test:

http://www.ntshoptools.com/video/Bad...d%20Gasket.wmv

and it bubles like a litle exhaust pipe is under water...
and smells like exhaust gas too.

so now i have to figure out where i can order all necessary parts what i need
to do this job.

problem once again is that i live here in Finland and here i not a place where can buy parts for this car.

have to order from U.S. and that takes a time 2-4 weeks normaly.

so it is important that i get all the parts i need and fast so i can fix my truck.

i allready check that RockAutoParts ithink could sell me what i need, but if someone know a better place who deliver to europe parts i'm all ears...
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:57 AM
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Check these folks out. They are good and this is probably what you need. Are you looking at deleting your EGR Cooler? If so, check this out. They will ship overseas too. You can call and talk to the if you have any concerns.
Also, you need to have those heads checked for cracks and surface being true.

Complete 6.0 Ford Powerstroke Solution with Sinister EGR Delete Kit, Oil Cooler and ARP Headstuds

Good luck sir.
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:28 PM
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thanks for the link, but i think this is litle bit over my budget.

just bought sct-livewire,new 58v fimc,new headlights,full service parts and all best oils and fluids... and now this happend.

egr-delete i can make my self.
and because truck is for daily use and no hevy mods
only sct-programmer,fimc and cat delete on my mind,
so i think i dont need arp bolts. i know that would be the best way to go
but dont have that kind of money.

have to remember that what items cost there you can double it before they are in my hands.. shipping,Finland taxes and all running costs make all things
what order from U.S. about double the price.
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:36 PM
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Here is some parts lists for you to look at, provided by Bismic:

Help me with my parts list! - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
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Old 02-22-2011, 12:02 PM
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Ok. I remove the heads last week and now waiting to get parts and my heads back from the checking for cracks.

i just wonder couple of things.

one, is it possible that -03 powerstroke has at orginal head gasgets
multilayer steel gasgets? or has someone allready at some point change those?

and is it normal that the oil stand pipes are so tight that the tubes bends 3/4 to over a 1 and 1/4 turn before it opens ?? because so hard was my stand pipes.

have to replace those too.

i think stand pipes moment i 45nm and it was more like 200nm before snap and open.
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:30 PM
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Clean the turbo while it's off. Put in a new oil cooler. Spend the extra money on ARP studs. It's cheaper to do it right once than to do it cheap twice.

Good luck from Kansas.

JRH
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