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6.0 injector problem.
Can someone please help me? I have a 6.0 f350 2006. The egr was out so put a egr delete kit, oil cooler, 5' off road exhuast. When i was removing the stock exhaust it pushed the connection to the 7 th injector into the housing (which is the back left injector). When i went to plug it in the connection keep trying to push into the housing, so had to hold it with a screw driver. I bled the lines at the banjo bolts. It started and ran 15-20 minutes and shut down. Someone stated I had air in the high pressure oil is the reason it want start now. But have been trying for several days to get it started with only cranking for 15-20 second and letting it cool off for 5-10 minutes. Now the 7th injector is throwing a code. So is this causing it not to start? Do i need to replace the whole injector or is their something i can buy to replace the plug on the injector? How long should it take to start after i got all the air in the high pressure oil system?
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When you say the "7th injector" you mean cylinder #7 injector correct? As in the very last injector on the rearmost cyinder on the passenger side adjacent to A/C evaporator housing, correct? So what exactly is damaged, the injector end of the connector or the injector harness end of the connector? Either way, you will need to repair this whether you get the truck started or not. If it's the injector end of the connector you broke, you will need to remove the passenger side valve cover and high pressure oil rail to access, as much as it sucks, because you will have to replace the injector itself. This is because the injector end of the connector is not serviceable separately. You likely broke the lock tabs on the injector end of the connector that keeps it fastened to the rocker arm carrier bore.
Regarding your no-start issue, yes you likely need to start and run your engine for a while to prime the high pressure oil system. But you would likely benefit from use of a scan tool that you can monitor live data with. This is so that you can monitor ICP volts, ICP psi, ICP desired, IPR duty cycle, FICM_L, FICM_M, FICM_V, FICM_SYNC, SYNC, RPM and V-PWR as you crank the engine over while attempting to start it. Since you're from Texas, you can check fuel pressure using the "redneck method" by removing the secondary fuel filter cap and cycling the ignition key to the RUN position. Does fuel fill up the housing VERY FAST AND OVERFLOW WITHIN TWO SECONDS, or does it struggle to rise and then bleed back down? The latter of the two answers will indicate a weak fuel pump. |
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yes it is the #7 Cylinder and yes i think i broke the lock tabs. When i turn the key on i can hear the fuel pump work. I get plenty of diesel in the filter and out of the banjo bolts. I do have an sct x3/sf3 power flash tuner and it does have data logging will this suffice?
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You can replace that plastic end on the injector. I just replaced one that I broke when doing my head gaskets, studs, egr, and oil cooler. Call a local injector store and ask them if you can swap your broken one for there good one. I had no problem doing it. If you are interested i can explain how to take the plug apart. It is not hard but it is hard to explain. Also if you do it wrong you will break it. ( i learned the hard way) If you cant get a injector store to let you swap one than I do have extras but i had to buy them.
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