ARP head stud installation, help please. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:20 PM
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ARP head stud installation, help please.

I recently bought a superchip for my 05 super duty. and not suprisingly, i stretched my head bolts and now i have been installing the 6.0 problem solver from mkm customs.... In my two car garage... i've got both gaskets and egr delete and the new oil cooler installed, but i have hit a problem....

I cant get my torque wrench on the very rear, lower head stud nut on the driver side head. I've tried to use the shortest socket i could find, and even tried shaving off a bit of the socket with a grinder. i dont want to bash in my firewall as im not sure of all the delicate electrical components on the inside, and i dont want to grind on it. I also am skeptical about using a wobbly extension or U-joint, because im sure that would F*&% up the torque on that particular stud. can anyone offer advice???
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:46 AM
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Get an air gun and hammer the firewall in. You are not going to hurt anything inside. Just don't hit the steering mechanism or bounce off and hit the engine rocker box. Been there, done that with my truck. How did you get the stud in, in the first place without hammering the firewall? You are going back with ARP studs aren't you?
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:25 PM
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Awesome, well i just wasnt sure about any inertia switches and or air bag BS. haha. but i'll do that. it was easy getting that one in, just set that particular stud in the head and ziptie it up high enough so it doesnt poke out the bottom of the head so you dont scrape up ur gasket when ya drop the head on. But thank you, that really helps.

And yea, i went with the ARP studs, so hopefully this doesnt happen again haha
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:30 PM
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how bad is this I'm getting ready to order studs,egr cooler, and do it myself seen all the write ups and pics it looks like a nightmare...
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:26 AM
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Well It ain't fun, but it is doable. It is recommended to pull the cab off the truck, or pull the heater box out of the way on the right side. Makes it easier to work the right bank. I was an idiot and did it my way which was leave the cab on and the heater box in place. I disconnected the motor and transmission mounts and jacked the engine up while rotating it to the left. I had the clearance to work the right side then, but this method I would not recommend unless you know what you are doing. Unfortunately, I had my head up and locked and broke a power steering hose in doing so. No problemo, just another $120.00 for the hose.

"907" - You are doing an EGR delete and Oil Cooler replacement while you're at it aren't you? Never mind, I reread your post. Be sure and pull your insulation out of the way when you begin hammering. When your done, just mash it back where it was.

Last edited by deucer; 12-29-2010 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:05 AM
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it's been said that you can also just unbolt the rear tranny mount and pull the tranny to the right with a big strap. this should make enough room to get your ratchet in there.

guess i should have read the whole thread. do what duecer said.
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:37 AM
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When I did mine last month I held a 2x3 on the firewall and my buddy hit it with a sledge hammer untill i had enough room to get to that stud.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:19 AM
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Regardless of technique, the end result should be the same: dented firewall to provide clearance.
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:10 PM
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Yea, i dismantled that condenser box on the passenger side and i have plenty of room on that side to tighten the studs. I didnt have a lift so i figured id do it the tough way and just leave the cab alone. but i'll do a little hammering and knock it in a bit, i already peeled back the insulation far enough. Im gonna be flyin back from Prudhoe bay tonight so i'll get her done and let ya all know how it went. Thank ya all for your help and advice.
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head gasket replacement, head stud

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