help no start after swaping hg and hpop

[d and b installer]

03 6.0 afe intake 4in exhaust other wise stock. Swapped headgaskets arp studs and new hpop in now tries to start but dies as soon as you let off the key. Been tryin to clear the air out of the systems for about an hour now and have completely killed my new batteries. Any ideas on how to help start other than eather.

[rollincoal6.4L]

You can use ether, but it should start and stay running once it fires, do you have fuel pressure? What about the FICM, is it plugged in all the way? Just throwing ideas out there. Let me know what you find.

[ianstew]

DO NOT USE ETHER.

[d and b installer]

No eather don't feel like burning my pistons up is there a bleed point for the fuel system close to the injectors. Waiting on a scanner to check the ficm. Ran when ibrought in the shop was told by ford tech that the hpop was weak so I replaced it figured while I had it down that far I would install the head gaskets and studs that had been collecting dust for the past year.

[d and b installer]

Scanner is showing 1500 psi from the hpop ficm gets48i volt out put while motor is cranking then drops to 38 volts once the a couple cylinders fire off.

[d and b installer]

going to try a last resort fix by resoldering the ficm. if this doesnt work i am at a complete loss. maybe time to drop two cylinders. any body know of anyone who does a good programmer for the 5r110

[bondsman]

The glowplugs cycling will cause that kind of drop (IIRC).
Try cycling your key about ten times (don't turn it off until you hear the fuel pump stop). Then try and crank it. I had that problem when I changed my fuel filter for the first time... I just got in a cranked it. Ran for a minute then died. Killed batteries twice. Was at a loss. Then I read on here about cycling to prime the fuel system. I will never make that mistake again...

[d and b installer]

thankyou rollin coal for pointing to the ficm reminded me of a few posts i saw on fixing them.

quote from rollincoal 64 "You can use ether, but it should start and stay running once it fires, do you have fuel pressure? What about the FICM, is it plugged in all the way? Just throwing ideas out there. Let me know what you find."
Do NOT use ether. you will end up with what we refered to as ether babies when i was in the A.F.. People would use it to start heavy machinery after they ran them dry we'd get them in and the tops of the pistons would be melted and just completely thrashed. ether is a big NONO. If you have to used something use WD-40 with the propane propelent. easy to tell if you have the right one if you have a lighter. because of the oils in it it cools the flame a bit and doesnt burn the pistons up.

[Ironmover]

Did you get it started up?

Just throwin this at the wall to see if it sticks but did you fill the resevoir under the cooler cavity up and run any oil down thru the filter housing? I'm not an expert on the subject but I didn't replace the oil that I removed from there nor did I prime the cooler and she would not start for about 7 hard cyclings from the key. I primed the fuel sytem and such and even plugged her in to pre heat everything and I only poured about a gallon down the filter housing and to presoak the filter. I was gettin very nervous that she wouldn't start but finally she crackled. Phew!!

Gosh dang it, after typing all that I didn't realize that you may not have even dug into the cooler.

Sorry and hope to hear good news from you.

[d and b installer]

Oh yeah she started and is runninfg like a champ think my hpop was definately bad she's got power again. Also had to fix the ficm and ficm harness as it had chaffed on the intake. Just rerapped the wirws then wrapped a chunk of 7/8 heater hose around all three harness to keep it from happening again.