remove fan shroud help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-28-2010, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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remove fan shroud help

Well the 6.0 POS left me stranded again. Just got it towed home and found that the pulley or tensioner that is directly under the alternator is broken. Or at least it looks way too crooked. So I can see it and think this is an easy driveway fix, but damned if I know how to get the whole fan shroud assembly off. Any help would be much appreciated. Also if anybody has some insight or hints on replacing what ever it is that broke under the alternator. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-28-2010, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselFam View Post
Well the 6.0 POS left me stranded again. Just got it towed home and found that the pulley or tensioner that is directly under the alternator is broken. Or at least it looks way too crooked. So I can see it and think this is an easy driveway fix, but damned if I know how to get the whole fan shroud assembly off. Any help would be much appreciated. Also if anybody has some insight or hints on replacing what ever it is that broke under the alternator. Thanks in advance.
You have a fan shroud and fan shroud stator, the stator is the plastic part that is in the way of getting to all the pullies and belt. The stator is bolted onto the motor with 4 bolts, getting to some of these bolts can be a p.I.t.a. Some guys just cut the stator out, while others take the time to remove the starter in one piece. If you chose to remove in one piece, your gonna need to remove the radiator and clutch fan. I have had my stator removed for almost 2 years without any issues, even with towing. With the stator gone, it gives you alot more rooms to work on the front of the motor.

Here is a write up I did for another site for removing the water
Pump, it will give you a good idea what needs to be done to remove the stator in one piece. Step 13 is for the stator.WATER PUMP REMOVAL INSTRUCTION w/PICS. - TheDieselGarage.com

Or you can try to work around the stator to get to the idler pulley. Usually the bearings go bad in the idle pulley, you do not need to replace the assembly, just the bearing. The bearing is a 6203 by depending on the manufacturer it may have a different number, here is some info, motor pulleys with replaceable bearings

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post #3 of 7 Old 11-28-2010, 03:44 PM
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remove the two bolts at back of shroud (10mm), remove the 4 (8mm) bolts for holding the rad in place to the rad support. Disconnect the upper rad hose and overflow hose at top of rad to degas bottle. Use a screw driver and pry back the piece behind shroud and between w/e the thing is bolted to the motor (you'll see little flat head spots or you can remove this later either or). Pry the christmas tree clips up on the + battery cable running to secondary battery along rad support and pull cable above rad support. Pull rad towards rad support and pull shroud up (if you pull it up on an angle it will be easier), it'll be tight when you get to upper rad hose neck just becareful you don't pry up on the necks and break them or you'll be buying a rad.
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-28-2010, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I will get after it tomorrow. I don't think its just a bearing though. The tensioner is actually hanging off the arm. I will pull it and take a look. Again, thanks. If it wasn't for this site and the help from all the members, I would have had to park this thing due to all the repairs.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-28-2010, 06:27 PM
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By what is being posted by the OP, I say the only tool you'll need is a 10mm wrench. There are only two bolts that secure the belt tensioner to the engine, one long and one short bolt, both of which can easily be accessed and removed using said 10mm wrench. Once removed, finesse the belt tensioner (or what's left of it) out. Go to your nearest Ford dealer parts department to pick up a belt tensioner and belt. Install the belt tensioner in the exact reverse order of removal while routing in the new drive belt. Once the tensioner is installed and tightened properly, give the drive belt one hard yank to release the tensioner lock. That's all there is to it, no need to mess with the rad, fan shroud or fan stator.

http://www.yorkdaleford.com/service.html

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post #6 of 7 Old 11-29-2010, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
By what is being posted by the OP, I say the only tool you'll need is a 10mm wrench. There are only two bolts that secure the belt tensioner to the engine, one long and one short bolt, both of which can easily be accessed and removed using said 10mm wrench. Once removed, finesse the belt tensioner (or what's left of it) out. Go to your nearest Ford dealer parts department to pick up a belt tensioner and belt. Install the belt tensioner in the exact reverse order of removal while routing in the new drive belt. Once the tensioner is installed and tightened properly, give the drive belt one hard yank to release the tensioner lock. That's all there is to it, no need to mess with the rad, fan shroud or fan stator.
Thats great and all but there is a sh*t load of plastic between me and the bolts. The stator stayed in but the top curved piece that looks like it either flows air to the alternator or protects the alternator from hands and stuff is gone. Nothing like losing your patience and breaking pieces. My neighbor loved it when it flew over his fence!! At least its out. NAPA beat Ford by about 100 bucks on new tensioner and belt.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-29-2010, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselFam View Post
Thats great and all but there is a sh*t load of plastic between me and the bolts. The stator stayed in but the top curved piece that looks like it either flows air to the alternator or protects the alternator from hands and stuff is gone. Nothing like losing your patience and breaking pieces. My neighbor loved it when it flew over his fence!! At least its out. NAPA beat Ford by about 100 bucks on new tensioner and belt.
The piece you describe is the first piece that gets removed on any 6.0L I ever rip apart, and it's called an air deflector. A slight tug and some prying on the lock tabs one at a time, in combination with a little finesse is all that's required to remove it. In any event, I'm glad you managed to fix your problem.

http://www.yorkdaleford.com/service.html

Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech who placed 2nd overall in Ontario on the Fix-It-Right-First-Visit score for 2010

....who works at a dealership that now employs SOME half decent looking female employees since they overhauled most of the administrative staff

....but STILL loves hot women with big boobies

....and STILL hates working on E-Series with 6.0L
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