Passenger Valve Cover Removal? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Passenger Valve Cover Removal?

I need to replace injector one and obviously need to get the valve cover off. Is there some super special way to get the valve cover off without removing the heater box and associated kit? Or if thats the only way, is there a thread or procedure that describes that? Thanks!

'05 Lariat Crew Cab FX4
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 11:16 AM
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I'm gonna cruise over to mdff's tomorrow night to try and help him with this. Anyone have any good tips that we may have missed?


1991 Volkswagen Jetta 1.6TD ECOdiesel -- 423,000 miles
2003 Ford F-350 6.0 -- 131,000 miles
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300SDL -- 307,500 miles

2000 Volkswagen New Beetle TDI (RIP)
1987 Mercedes-Benz 190D 2.5 Turbo (sold)


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post #3 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 11:21 AM
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Remove the pass side inner fender. This will allow you to get at the last 2 bolts from the wheel well area. You will need to use 1/4" drive tools as 3/8" are to big to get past the heater box. If I have a writeup, I will pass it along.
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 11:35 AM
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Awesome... I just went out and looked at my truck, and it looks like this is a good way to do it.


1991 Volkswagen Jetta 1.6TD ECOdiesel -- 423,000 miles
2003 Ford F-350 6.0 -- 131,000 miles
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300SDL -- 307,500 miles

2000 Volkswagen New Beetle TDI (RIP)
1987 Mercedes-Benz 190D 2.5 Turbo (sold)


Helpful Links:
6.0 no-start | 6.0 turbo reconditioning | Test your coolant!

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post #5 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hndacr1 View Post
Remove the pass side inner fender. This will allow you to get at the last 2 bolts from the wheel well area. You will need to use 1/4" drive tools as 3/8" are to big to get past the heater box. If I have a writeup, I will pass it along.
This is exactly what I needed! I'll check it out this evening and post some pics if all goes well.

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post #6 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 11:41 AM
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I would be very interested to see what needs to be done for the entire process. I don't need to do this, but I love technical write up's (with pictures of course)

- Karl
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by nylyon View Post
I would be very interested to see what needs to be done for the entire process. I don't need to do this, but I love technical write up's (with pictures of course)
Here is some info. I am not the author, just providing a cut and paste. If you are only working on the pass side, disregard everything related to the drivers side.



"First thing you have to do is dig your way to the valve covers. All I can say is, just start removing parts. For ease of doing this, I would remove the hot side intercooler tube, passenger side inner fender liner, air filter assembly (all the way up to the turbo will be neccessary; when you pull off the last peice, it will have the CCV tube attached to it- manuever it so that it has rotated 90 degrees in the valve cover then pull up). Drain the coolant and remove the degas bottle, the drivers side battery and battery tray.

On the passenger side, remove the glow plug control module and bracket and then the transmission filler tube... all of it is fastened with 10mm nuts. After the coolant has drained, remove the clamp and heater hose from underneath the alternator...there will still be some coolant left in it so keep a rag underneath. From there you should be able to get to the valve cover bolts...be sure and mark the position of both the BOLTS and the STUDS on both valve covers because there are positions for both. Once the valve cover is off, you will see the high pressure rail sitting underneath. There is a hydraulic line with a quick disconnect fitting going to it- chances are you won't have the tool to remove the line, but don't worry about it. Simply remove the 8mm bolts holding the rail down; pull it up, let the oil drain out then lay it over to the side out of your way with the line still attached- not a big deal.

Pretty much same procedure on the drivers side. Remove the nut to the oil dipstick tube, but instead of pulling the entire tube out, just rotatate it down and out of the way. Mark the position of the valve cover bolts and studs again, and remove. The Fuel Injection Control Module has 10mm bolts holding it down in the back, and 13mm bolts on the front. Remove them and pull the FICM up so you can see the connectors on the back. There is a tab that needs to be pushed on both the top and bottom of each connector to remove it; wrap both hands around it, push from either side, and pull out...they can be quite stubborn. Once it is off, there are 10mm nuts holding the mount down, simply remove.

To disconnect the injector from the rocker carrier- there is an electrical connection at the top of each cylinder head. You will see a c-shaped metal clip locked onto a plastic connector on the outside- either mash this clip IN while you wiggle on the connector to release it, or simply pull the clip out and lay it to the side...either way works. Remove the connector. Now there are two tabs holding the actual injector wiring into the top of the rocker carrier- from the outside, take a shallow well 18mm or 19mm socket and rock it back and forth on top of the connector. This will release it from the head and you will see it slide down a bit- then just reach inside and wiggle it the rest of the way out. From there, take your T40 bit and remove the injector.

Remove the old o-rings and compression washer from the new injectors. Use a 9mm deep well socket to push the new compression washer over the nozzles and install the new o-rings. You can use either vasoline or engine oil to lube the injector o-rings. Oil is a little less messy but will smoke on initial startup for a minute or two.

Put the injector hold-down clamp up against the injector with the tab locked in, and install both down into the cylinder head together. You'll need to wiggle it a bit and you will feel both the injector fall down into its hole and the bolt of the hold-down start in its tapped hole. Run it the rest of the way down then torque 24-26 lb-ft. Shove the electrical connector back through the rocker carrier hole until you feel it click (takes quite a bit of force) then reinstall the injector harness connector back into the top...don't rotate the harness connector while installing or you could bend the pins.

Make sure there is oil in the top of each injector (I usually just take a half quart and dump all over the top of the injectors) then carefully place the rail back down over the injectors, with the joints into the tops. There is a torque spec for the 8mm rail bolts, but it is not critical...just torque snugly with a 3/8 ratchet.

Reinstall the valve covers and put the truck back together.

When you go to crank it back up, it will take 15-30 seconds of solid cranking to fire it up- don't be alarmed. Don't stop halfway through, continue to crank until it starts.

If you want to change the glow plugs- there is a small trick to removing the glow plug harness. The harness is located right at the bottom of the aluminum portion of the cylinder head- use a peice of 16 gauge wire to pull out the connector. There is a ring at the bottom of each connector, wrap the wire around it then yank the wire with a pair of pliers. The glow plug is 10mm, just remove and reinstall. "
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 12:05 PM
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 12:10 PM
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Great info, thanks!


1991 Volkswagen Jetta 1.6TD ECOdiesel -- 423,000 miles
2003 Ford F-350 6.0 -- 131,000 miles
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300SDL -- 307,500 miles

2000 Volkswagen New Beetle TDI (RIP)
1987 Mercedes-Benz 190D 2.5 Turbo (sold)


Helpful Links:
6.0 no-start | 6.0 turbo reconditioning | Test your coolant!

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post #10 of 21 Old 03-19-2010, 12:16 PM
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Valvecover_RH.pdf

that should help a bit too

Adam Brannan

First Coast Diesel Performance

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