How to test FICM

[ColdDeadHands]

Guys, I've got an 05 6.0L that appears to have a dead FICM based on all I've read here. For several months, cold starts became harder and harder until one morning, no mas. Just crank and crank with a few attempted firings, but no go.

I have a question on testing the FICM. When testing the screw closest to the fender with a meter I get 48V with the key in the on position. Then, when cranking the engine the voltage drops to 20V (while actually cranking the engine over). Does this indicate a bad FICM? If so, I'm going to try the resolder method.

Thanks for any advice.

[bodacious diesel]

you might load test the batteries but i bet that the conctions in the ficum are getting weak and dropping voltage with a load on them if you can get the truck started check the voltage it still should be 48 when running

[Evil Eye]

Sounds like you need to resolder the connections like you suggest.

[andys08]

how do you resolder them and which ones?

[dannyboy950]

This should help Fix UR FICM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[topdwg]

This is what I used to check mine...

Fuel Press

[topdwg]

Or...

On all 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engines you will find the FICM bolted to the drivers side valve cover...you may need to unbolt the coolant reservoir from the 'cowl' so that you can get your arms/hands back there to work on the FICM.

You don't need to drain the coolant...just unbolt the bracket that hold the coolant reservoir, and gently move it as far out of your way as possible. Be careful, as there is a plastic coolant connector that can be cracked if the

On the top of the FICM, you will see a diamond/oval shaped metal plate...remove the two screws from that plate (Torx#20).

under that plate you will either see 7 "lugs"...or 4 "lugs" (depending on the year of the truck)...

if you have a "7 lug FICM"...you want to put one lead from your multimeter onto the upper left "lug"...and the other multimeter probe to ground (bare spot on the cylinder head, alternator bracket, negative battery terminal, etc).

If you have a "4 lug FICM"...you will want to check the lug on the right (closest to the drivers side fender).

be carefull NOT to lean the probe on the FICM lug...over onto the aluminum case...you might let the smoke out, LOL...

Have someone turn the key to the 'on' position (don't crank it yet)...and see what your FICM voltage is. It should be >46volts.

Next have someone crank the engine...and see what the FICM voltage is while cranking...again..should be >46volts.

Go ahead and start the engine...and see what the voltage is while idling.

If the FICM voltage drops below 46 volts...then it is "bad"...

we have seen FICM's as low as 17volts...some 19v's...some in the twenty's and low thirties...

obviously...the lower the voltage...the 'worse' the FICM is...and the more likely that (cold) rough running would be a result of a bad FICM.

however..if you email (or call) us and say that your FICM is dropping to 43-44volts...while low..I think that you may have some underlying injector issues that may be contributing to your cold rough running, as much as the slightly low voltage FICM

[onecrazyblackredenck]

Is bucking and smoking on cold start ups a symptom of a faulty FICM? or is this injector related? Not trying to high jack just trying to figure out what the difference in the symptoms are for an injector or a FICM. Thanks

[Evil Eye]

Unfortunately both go bad and exhibit many of the same symptoms. If you are not getting any codes and your voltages are good, I would suspect injectors.

[firefightermech]

When i have replaced FICM's i have multipule injector codes (sometimes all 8) or a P0611 code.