Hard Start with codes no CEL

[BTpsd]

So my truck starts fine when it's warm or plugged in but if it's below 45* it seems to struggle to start. First thing I tried was a new GPCM and no change so I hooked up the reader.

I'm getting the following codes on my 03 6.0L.

P2614
P2617

Talked to a friend and he's guessing it's the CPS. It's $25 so I"m going to change it this morning. If it doesn't work do you guys have any other advice. I realize the FCIM is a common troll but I figured if I'm getting codes I should try them first. I did check the wiring and didn't find any obvious chaffing or anything loose.

Thanks in advance!

[daveyburt]

sounds like the right start: your codes are CP Output Circuit / Open (both of them)

[BTpsd]

Well here's an update. Changed the CPS. Kinda a pain. Couldn't get it from underneath. Trying the up above approach didn't work out so well either. I found it to be easiest for me to go thru the wheel well. All said and done it didn't take too long. The outer O'ring was cut/damaged. So the new one went in.

Bad news is, the next day it still took 3 tries to start. Still no CEL light. No codes...kinda stumped.

We did a simply cleaning on the EGR but my friend is recommending an EGR system cleaning. Anyone ever heard of it? It's from the "BG" line of products.

[m-chan68]

For what it's worth, P2614 and P2617 are what I consider to be "ghost codes" which I usually ignore. Those two codes are only set when the PCM detects the engine stalling at some point. You have to fix the cause of the stalling to repair your issue. Yes, it is very common to have the outer o-ring torn on the CMP sensor, but that won't cause your truck not to start. Was there a lot of rust build-up between the sensor flange and the mounting on the engine block. If rust build-up is enough to pull the sensor further outward, it can also cause a momentary loss of CMP signal. To me, it sounds like you have a harness problem. Next time the engine is running, I suggest you do a little bit of "wiggle testing" of various areas of the engine harness to see if it reacts or stalls. If it does, your engine and/or FICM harness needs replaced.

[BTpsd]

Thanks M-Chan. I'll try the wiggle test. It only hard starts cold. For laughs we tried a new GPCM with the same results. Didn't see much rust, but then again I wasn't looking that hard at it. Now that I've figured out how to pop it out I just may do it again and check. Maybe Sat or Sun we'll do a full "BG" cleaning on it. I"m trying to find info on it but not too much so far. He swears by the stuff, he mainly works on the 6.0L Meat Wagon E-Series so most of his fleet gets carboned up real hard. He also brought me down some of the Ford addative to try. Going to run a good mix thru it this week and see if it clears up any.

[m-chan68]

Okay, after re-reading through this entire thread I noticed that your truck is a 2003 model year. If your buddy that works on E-Series meat wagons has access to a scan tool, have him pull up your ICP volts and ICP psi data when the engine is cold. This will check to see if you have a biased ICP sensor.

[BTpsd]

Yup, he's got the full run of the shop and scan tools. I'll ask him to check. He's more of the nuts and bolts mechanic as opposed to the electrical diagnosis.