6.0L not starting, other issues? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:38 PM
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6.0L not starting, other issues?

Hi, I have a 2004 F350 KR with the 6.0L. Truck is a later 2004 model year, build code I do belive is July or Augest don't remember for sure.

Having a major problem. Truck won't start, turn over or crank. Glow plugs come on and heat up, fuel pump runs for the 15-20 seconds and turns off like always. Turn key to start and I can here a fast spinning. Sounds like a starter to me.

Now the other issues. Just recenetly had an oil change done (2 days ago) from a place I have not been to before and am worried they didn't use either A the correct oil or B not enough of it.

Other things I am not sure of. When starting in the cold, below -10C the truck runs very rought and sounds almost like its missing. Wait 30 seconds and its back to normal. Blows white smoke like crazy. Doesn't smell like anything though, slight hint of diesel thats all. Once truck is idleing to warm up in mornings and clicks into high idle, I sometimes get a high pitched squeel. I hit the brake, it comes out of high idle and it goes away. Anything to worry about? When its cold, below -15C I see some white smoke when I give it some throttle. I assume its just the extreme cold? Other problem possibly?

Have a slightly lower collant level then normal. Checked 2 weeks ago, then again tonight and it seems to be down an inch in the overflow bottle. No whiteness on the bottle or anything wierd looking. Truck is cold at this point as well.

Suggestions? Help? Is my started the ONLY issue I need to be dealing with? Possibly head gasket? EGR? Oil cooler?
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:59 PM
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I would start by checking the oil level. Make sure that its up to the right amount. Dont worry about what type oil you have until after you get it running. Yes, synthetic is better. Yes, it will run on regular dino guts.

Then put a charger on the batts, make sure they arent just getting weak. Dont diagnose a starter without making sure you have good voltage to it.

If it still spins the bendix without engaging, then go get a new starter.

The rough running/chugging when cold sounds like what I had last week. Search for the Dr. Quads FICM test on here. Check for proper voltage with key on, and during cranking. Simple test, 10 min with a volt meter. Keep in mind, the FICM is very dependent on battery voltage (hence the charging of batts).

Once you getting it running, then start to diagnose the coolant issue. Do a search on here for failed EGR cooler tests. Im not sure exactly, but I think you jack the back of the truck up, pull the EGR valve out (right next to oil filter), and see if any sludge/coolant comes to the front of the intake.
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:32 PM
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I have been browsing uTube, and watching the 6.0L cold start up videos. It seems my truck does what most seem to be doing. Granted, many days it is a lot colder than the videos I have seen so the rougher idle time I guess can be assumed. It was -42 with windchill the other day. BRRRRR. Not plugged in and fired first time. I guess that is a good sign.


I did check oil level. It was on the top of the dip stick, right where it should be. Maybe even a hair full but I am not worried about that. I will check the batts tomorrow, but I am sure they are good. I have never had a low battery issue, and have never had trouble cranking it when its cold cold out. I am really leaning towards the starter.

I will check the FICM is I can get a warm enough day to be outsite and fiddling around. Granted, I work outdoors so shouldn't be an issue.
As for the low coolant. I am at the min line on the over flow bottle. Should I add some asap or leave it there and check daily for level changes? I will park in same spot daily and sharpie the bottle to give exact levels I guess.
Truck has had a new EGR once already back 100k km ago. So maybe another one? Or just EGR delete it...\

Thanks for the reply
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:02 PM
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I would do any EGR delete well before I would ever put an new EGR cooler in it, you can weld the EGR cooler ends closed if you are looking for a budget way to do it.

The white smoke at idle and rough start/idle could be a combination of injector and FICM. start with testing the FICM voltage. Mine went in for bad starting, and would billow black smoke then turn to white at idle till it warmed up, I thought it was more injector problem, but turns out its more the FICM to blame.
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