Studs in, cold temps, barely starts - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Studs in, cold temps, barely starts

Well, I finished up with my studs the other day. And she has been running great. But yesterday (first morning since studs) and today, she did not want to start. I must have had 20-25 key on, wait, crank for 3-5 sec, spit, stalls before it started. Temps were close to 10* before the wind chill. When it did start, white smoke, a little clunky, but nothing abnormal. Im thinking I have a glow plug issue. It seems to me like I am warming the cylinders from cranking, and having these false starts, rather than the glow plugs warming the cylinders. Or am I completely off base, and this is an injector issue?

Heres the facts:

- close to 10* F
- truck plugged in with timer, 6 hrs
- 5w40 Mobil 1 Delvac
- brand new fuel filters
- 2 brand new batteries
- ARP studs with new HG's
- EGR delete
- all new Motorcraft Gold coolant
- new stand pipes/oil tubes in heads
- updated HPOP STC kit
- rebuilt oil cooler
- no check engine lights (not even from EGR removal)
- hot starts great
- full tank of fuel, with anti-gel additives
- pedal to the floor makes no difference
- local dealer sucks, wont even talk to me about PCM update without setting up a service


Im thinking of running to NAPA today before they close for the holiday. They have a glow plug module and glow plugs in stock.

Any ideas? Injectors? PCM reflash? Possible stored codes not showing with a CEL?

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post #2 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 04:38 PM
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I'm having the same problem truck doesn't want to start in anything under 32 degrees unless it's plugged in or i cycle the key 10 to 15 times i also think i might have a glow plug problem do these have module problems any help would be great thanks
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 04:47 PM
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sounds like it could just be becuase the injectors would of just went back in...its still probably purging the air out of the fuel system...it will take longer to crank when injectors just get put back in..i know mind did

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post #4 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a way to purge the system? Is there a bleeder somewhere on the fuel system? There has to be a way the Ford Tech's do it. I cant imagine giving a customer a truck back and telling him," Yeah, so for the next week, your truck wont start in the morning".

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post #5 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I went back and re-read that last post. Didnt mean to come across as a p*ck*rh*ad.

S362 68/.91
Irate SS T4
Holders 175/30
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
NL CAI
Rudy's Intake elbow
PSP Coolant Tank
Mishimoto Rad. & IC pipes
EGR Del.
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tune
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
35x18's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 04:59 PM
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You need to go out and drive the truck for about an hour and beat the piss out of it. Thats the best and easiest way to get the air out.

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post #7 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_trck View Post
You need to go out and drive the truck for about an hour and beat the piss out of it. Thats the best and easiest way to get the air out.


i had a ford tech put in my injectors on the side...he didnt purge the system because it wasnt at the dealer and he knew i could do it myself...most of the time they will drive the truck or let it idle to purge the system...it just needs driven and it will clear up

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post #8 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhaddox View Post


i had a ford tech put in my injectors on the side...he didnt purge the system because it wasnt at the dealer and he knew i could do it myself...most of the time they will drive the truck or let it idle to purge the system...it just needs driven and it will clear up
I agree 100%. This is the exact reason I insist on the service advisor getting permission from the customer to allow me to drive their vehicle home for the evening (or the entire weekend) after any major repair where it's been "opened up". So far, other than the odd bad out-of-box EGR valve here and there, this has resulted in NO COMEBACKS for me. I vaguely remember an old saying that sticks out in the back of my head that were words of wisdom back in my apprenticeship years,"if you EVER for any reason don't feel 100% comfortable releasing the vehicle back to the customer after a repair, DON'T".

http://www.yorkdaleford.com/service.html

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post #9 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 05:59 PM
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My 06 F-350 is at the Ford dealer right now with the cold start issue. When it's warm out, the truck starts fine. It's been getting down into the 20s here in SoGA and unless the truck is "on the rope", she does not want to start.

The Ford Tech is replacing the #2, #8 injectors, and the FICM. I sure hope that fixes it. Thank God for the 100000 warranty!

Daddy's Limousine: 2006 F-350 King Ranch 4x4, Auto, CC, LB, Ranch Hand bumpers/headache rack

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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I reset my trip after I did the studs (well, it did that for me by unhooking the batts). Ive got 52 miles so far. I really have been babying the truck since then.

So all I need to do, is go drive the nuts off of it? I ran errands yesterday morning for about 3 hrs, and left it running the whole time. Today, I drove about another hour, in two different times.

What would be a preffered method to start this thing up tomorrow (expected to be around 10* in am)? It is plugged in right now (no timer, plugged in with juice since 7pm). Once I get it running, should I go for a long drive? Let it idle for a few hours? Go turn some 1/4 mile passes? Any tips would be great.

I found similar problems in a search, but no one had a real answer as to what to do?


PS- If you guys need help with Yamaha Outboards- Ill return the diagnostic favors!!!

S362 68/.91
Irate SS T4
Holders 175/30
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
NL CAI
Rudy's Intake elbow
PSP Coolant Tank
Mishimoto Rad. & IC pipes
EGR Del.
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tune
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
35x18's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
DC Power
Powerstops

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