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Another no start: 2005 6.0

2K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  -PSD- 
#1 ·
I cannot find what the problem is. I cannot get my 6.0 to start. I have hooked up my AE to measure IPR , ICP and FICM. I have replaced the IPR and ICP as I had a code for it. No longer.

When I unplug the ICP and plug back in I see ICP pressure but after a while it goes back to showing around 167 which is a bogus reading because when I replug it back in again it goes to zero then shows pressure again.

I have put my old ICP back in and it does the same thing.

Last week capture:


Today:
 

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#3 ·
If I unplug and replug in my ICP it climbs to match the desired ICP numbers. I have checked the harness and am stumped. It resets after a bit. I checked voltage to make sure also.
 
#7 ·
kaya is saying is the problem is not with the ICP sensor or IPR - they are responding correctly due to the conditions of the oil pressure. You're not building enough pressure to fire your injectors (500psi minimum) and testing your base oil pressure will tell you which direction to go next (LPO or HPO).

-jokester
 
#9 ·
Here's a guy that can explain it a lot better than I - RIP DTR!



-jokester
 
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#10 ·
Base oil pressure is easy to check ... Take out your oil filter buy unscrewing the cap and removing the filter. Use a draft punch or some long similar stick to gently depress the anti-drainback valve at the bottom of the oil filter housing. It's a black plastic valve with a spring on it.

With the valve depressed, crank the engine over. If the oil filter housing fills with oil, you have base oil pressure.

You could instead use the port on the front of the oil cooler assembly. It looks similar to an air fitting on a compressor. Hook up a line there and see if you get oil squirting out.

If you have base oil pressure (which you likely do) you should start chasing a high pressure oil leak by pressurizing the HPO system through the ICP port. Apply +12V to the IPR to close it for 60 seconds or so (no more than 120 seconds) and listen under both valve covers for an air hissing sound.

Keep playing that game until you find the sound.

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
Thanks I will check that when the weather cooperates a little more. Each time I went out today it would start raining then when I would go back inside it would stop. Happened twice. :)
 
#12 ·
Checked the oil basket and cranked using starter wire and no oil is coming into the basket. Is it a far stretch to think it is the oil pressure regulator? I am asking because I don't have a 12mm allen socket and would need to buy one. Crap!
 
#13 · (Edited)
First place I always look with no base pressure.
Buy the socket. That bastard will probably be in there tight. Usually are.
If you unthread it and the reg pops out with some force, it probably got stuck in the cylinder.
You can remove the reg sleeve with a magnet and feel in the cylinder for any nicks. If it's all good, reinstall the reg and fire it up.

0 ICP reading is almost always one of two things:
Lack of base pressure or a debris jammed IPR valve. From my experience anyways.
There are, of course, other possibilities. But those are the most prevalent
 
#14 ·
I forgot that I had bought a large hex socket set a while back and put in the wrong drawer in my tool box. Took it out and I was able to use a magnetic screwdriver to slide it out. I noticed some wear on the valve. I put it back in and slid back and forth and noticed no gritty feeling and it came back out easily. I cleaned everything back up and started via starter wire and noticed the basket filling back up. Yay!

I put everything back together and got it started. It takes some long cranks (10secs) to start it each time I tried. Hopefully I can get some codes now.

Pic of valve after I cleaned it. Notice the wear.
 

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#15 ·
Took it for a drive (was nervous that it would stop) waited for it to warm up all the way. Tried a few harder accelerations and it worked good. When I went back home I restarted and it starts quickly again. I must have needed to let it fully warm up again. Now it starts normally. Happy to have my truck back I missed it!

Thanks to everyone who helped me. I love this forum!
 
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#16 ·
Right on. Glad it's sorted. Yea the system would have had some air to be worked out.
I would replace that regulator. Looks like dookie. I don't believe they're very expensive
 
#17 ·
I have not driven the truck much but still thought there was something wrong with it. It has been some nice weather so I have been riding my motorcycles to work. Took the truck out on the highway and it started running rough and had no power. I was able to get it on the side of the rode and pull codes with Torque. P0266.

I was able to get it home as long as I kept it out of overdrive and did not go above 55. I ran a contribution test with AE but am not sure how big the spikes should be per cylinder.

I see it going below on cylinder two as it shows in the pic. Am I reading it right or will the dip be more dramatic? I have noticed that cyclinder four does the same thing but could not get a image capture to show it. It was only a few times I saw it. However, cylinder two would usually show a small decrease as shown below.


I have some questions.
1. Where do you guys buy injectors from?
2. Should I replace all of them on the side since I am in there? Seems more costly.
3. I have ordered new standpipes and dummy plugs. Might as well do them since I am there.
4. Can I reuse the valve cover gasket?
5. What are some of the torque specs? ie: oil rail, t-30 bolts, valve cover, etc.

I have watched several videos and it does not seem too hard to do. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks!
 

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#19 ·
Check your fuel filters, and your fuel pump housing. It would take you maybe 10 minutes. My truck had no start the other day and I found this clogged behind the cover on my fuel pump. Haven't had an issue for 100 miles now, starts right up.
 

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