2003 Ford f250 6.0....So i just tore down the truck, replaced the HPOP with a Ford reman and primed it like they ask you to. Changed the HPOP o-rings and installed a new discharge tube (J-tube) with new o-rings also. Torque everything to spec, installed the updated turbo drain tube, ICP, IPR, new oil (10w-30 non synthetic rotella t4), oil and fuel filters. Prior to this replaced the cam and crankshaft sensors and FICM power board. Truck stalled died on me while i was driving after i replaced all these parts and fired back up. Charged the batteries since they were dead and took it on a 2 hour road test with no issues. Ran like new. Stopped at the gas station, turned it off for 2 minutes and boom crank no start. Waited 4 hours at the gas station to let it cool off and tried starting it at 30 min intervals. no luck. Tow truck jump started me and i was on my way home with no issues (45 min drive). Got home, turned it off and started right back up again. What do you guys think it would be? High pressure oil leak somewhere? it runs great and only had that one hick up (so far). im getting pretty frustrated with it. 7 years i've had it and never had any issues with it until now. Thanks in advance.
Sounds like a possible battery/charging system issue if the tow truck driver was able to jump start you right after you couldn't start it on your own. How old are your batteries? If you haven't changed them in the 7 years that you owned it, i'd think about replacing them IMO. Do you have a monitor to see what your truck's PID's were doing at the time? This would give you a good starting point.
7 years and no issues...I wouldn't get frustrated with it just yet
Awe yes that's what i forgot to mention. The batteries are about 3 years old. The reason he jumped me was because they were dead from me trying for the past 4 hours lol. When i came out of the store and tried to start it, it had good cranking speed or power. When he jump started me, the engine was turning over much faster and the truck eventually started maybe 8 seconds later of cranking. It just did it again to me during my lunch break at work. shut it off and cranked it to see if it would start, no luck, plenty of cranking power. What i noticed was the oil pressure gauge went up to about mid range (where it usually sits) while i was cranking. I dont have any software or anything to check my pids, i wish i did but i'm on a tight budget these days. I will slap my spare FICM in there and see what happens. I'm thinking that maybe when the FICM gets hot it acts up.
Check FICM voltage when hot. If that's good, it has to be an IPR problem and actually nothing to do with heat.
It's happened to me before that the IPR screen is broken, something gets stuck in the seat of the IPR valve keeping it open and you get 0psi ICP on crank. Sometimes enough key cycles and cranking flushes that thing out of the valve, sometimes it doesn't. Pull your IPR and check that the screen is OK.
What's your cranking ICP pressure when you have the crank no start symptom?
IPR is maxing out due to low ICP. Might want to pull the IPR and check/clean it like mentioned previously. Especially given that you were just in there changing the HPOP.
huh, could it be that simple even tho it's a new IPR and fresh oil? maybe some dirt or lint got into the screen? i'll give it a shot hopefully tomorrow and see what happens. I hope that's the only thing wrong lol
Sorry for the late reply, i thought i fixed it and i thought my issue was a bad alternator and batteries since they are bad but i was wrong. Still doing it. My buddy who's a Detroit Diesel tech suggested that i drain my 10w-30 oil and put 15w-40 like i typically run. we Live in Florida and that 10w-30 is already thin oil, he said there's a chance my thin oil could "skip" out on the pump and the pump wouldn't produce enough PSI to crank the engine. I added 10w-30 since that's all i had laying around.. I will try and take the ipr off this weekend and clean it. I am kind of skeptical on that being the problem but you never know. I didn't have a crank no start when hot problem until i did the HPOP so it must be something i touched.
You need to do an air test when hot to confirm. I know it sucks because its an 03 but the way I do it is... There is a plug in the back of the block which sits on top of the hpop. I remove that plug, adapt a fitting on and run a 5000 psi hydraulic hose out from under the truck. Then when it's up to temp you can air test immediately.
I might just have to do that. I'll change the oil and check the IPR and go from there. Really hope i don't have to tear through the block again, as of right now it's the only vehicle i have..
Well, as of right now i drove about an hour and got it nice and hot. Got home, shut it off, and she fired right back up. Not once but 3 times. I guess the thicker oil did the trick? I'm not gonna hold my breath on this one but if it works it works lol. I'll let you guys know if it fixed it or not, i'm not going to take any chances and turn it off again when i'm an hour away from home.
yeah after i realized i put 10w-30 when i usually put 15w-40 here in Florida, i said screw it and ran it. Hopefully that's just my issue, i didn't think there would be that much of a difference in viscosity but you never know!
I don't think 10W30 caused the problem I ran it in South Houston TX for a year or 2 before I swapped to 5w40. To back up my reasoning if you take oil sample you'll see the 6.0 shears 40 weight oil down to 30 weight in no time.
Yeah stated in one of the first posts the IPR sets at 85% with icp around 370 when cranking hot. With that being said i came back from an hour and a half drive, turned the truck off and started right back up. Did it a few times and it ended up just cranking... 85% IPR and about 400 ICP. The thicker oil did help but there's still a problem somewhere. Someone suggested to pull the IPR and clean it since i might of gotten crap in the HPOP housing like dirt, rust, lint, etc. Don't think that could be the problem but worth a try since i was able to start the truck like 4 times before it decided to just not crank?
soooooo $300 later on new batteries that i needed badly, the damn thing just cranks now when cold, wont start. Cranks fast, IPR at 86% ICP 385% and FICM 48v so same thing as before. at key on i noticed ICP was at 20 or 21.... Could it be a problem with my ICP?
Unplug the gpcm and give the breather a shot of brake cleaner. If it fires up you have a leak. If it'll build up to 500 but won't run then I'd say hpop. Have you air tested the system?
GPCM? Glowplug Control Module? Also i failed to mention that when i replaced the ICP i noticed the connector was soaked in oil and all i did was clean it and not replace it. Also it's going to be hard to air test it since it's sitting in the middle of the parking lot of my apatment complex lmao. I really thought the batteries were gonna do it but seeing that ICP i am sure i have a small leak somewhere. It's just weird that now all of the sudden it wont start when a week or two ago it started up no problem on dead batteries. Would the most common leaking point on the 03s be at them oil rail injector cups?
So i've been thinking about the reassembly of all the parts when i did the HPOP and what got me was the J-tube on top of the HPOP didn't click into place if i remember correctly or it had a hard time to. Could that cause a leak even tho it's bolts to the HPOP on one end? Also it was a new J-tube and i had to install the oring and plastic washer on the inside of it. Does the washer go in first and then the oring or vise versa? Just trying to see if i should tear back down to the HPOP and check that out. Thanks.
Alright so i have an update and i really need help on this one... So i dragged my truck to my shop, took the turbo off and hooked air pressure to the ICP and energized the IPR to the batteries. I'm hearing air coming out from both valve covers and the turbo drain tube with the IPR energized and without it energized....... Am i screwed? where should i start first? keep in mind last time i cranked it it maxed out at 390psi.... Need this truck fixed asap, thanks.
Really? That's actually good news. Why am i able to hear air coming from the valve covers? If the system is sealed shouldn't air just escape to the port that lubes the HPOP gear? i'm just trying to learn. I also didn't hear my IPR click or anything when i connected it to battery power. I did however hear a noise through the valve covers when i activated it. Since the turbo is off i might as well pop the HPOP cover off and see if there's a leak somewhere. Thanks for the quick reply.
Bought it from Ford on amazon, It came with all the parts for it, i just had to install the o-ring inside with the small rubber washer and the lock ring. It didn't come assembled. If anything is leaking i'm putting money on that Jtube.
Thanks for the help, hopefully it's that and i'll grab one locally. I'll tear her down again probably today or tomorrow and report back with what i find.
Thanks for all your help, took 2 hours to get to the HPOP and shot air ontop of the J tube, sure enough it was leaking at the quick fitting. I'm pretty happy. Now final question, I haven't updated my HPOP cover but should i put silicone on the back end of the cover since there are no bolts there? I feel like it could leak. Thanks again for all your help.
okay last set of questions this time. I'm going to order a Bostech o-ring and teflon kit for the high pressure oil system instead of pumping out $180 for a new j-tube. Would y'all recommend it? Also in the j-tube does the teflon washer go in first and then the o-ring or vise versa? and last i noticed the top D-ring that goes into the cover blew out also. Should i clean the bore out good and try again? thanks.
Honestly. I've used an aftermarket set of VR Seals (Victor Reinz) for the jtube seals. It wiped the ring out in 3 months. Bite the bullet, spend the money and do it right. You don't want to pay to dive back in. If thats your choice then the oring goes first, then teflon towards the outside.
You're right about that, just bought one at the dealer. I'm extremely disappointed because the one that i bought online that supposedly was from Ford looks like a cheap knock off of the one from the dealer... Instead of the joints being soldered they are welded and the quick connect piece is welded on more crooked than Hillary Clinton. I should of just bought one from the dealer in the first place or re-use my old one... Thanks for all the help.
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